The New Gothic / Neogoth

[softgrey]

and another by philip lim...
take your pick of colours...
personally...i'm still going with the black......

rakuten.com
satineboutique.com

 

[jimhviid]

Thank you.. all who contrintubted to this subject. Very interesting reading!

 

[Kimkhuu]

The black ysl dress you posted with puffy sleeves is STUNNING....

I saw an editorial with Gemma Ward, I think it's new and it's perfect for this thread, have to find it though.....

 

[fashionista-ta]

Sorry, forgot to credit Wings pic above to garrard.com ... I did it correctly when I posted the first time, but tFS crashed

Btw, soft, that ivory Philip Lim is really *you* I think ... maybe for spring?

I know what you mean about fine jewelry ... it tends to have a certain sameness ... I like to buy stuff from indy designers vs the big names (e.g., I run a mile from David Yurman, so big here that the frightfully unfashionable wear it, including the biggest fashion offender I know--I think her boyfriend buys it for her ).

 

[softgrey]

ta-ta...i think david yurman is so ...total 'victim' status jwlry...
the price on the cape isn't that bad-you're right...
i'm just not used to see such prices on bluefly, you know?...
or even seeing dries there at all...
it's more a diesel and prada logo kind of site...
hmm...i might consider that dress actually...
not sure if it would look good on me though...

chanel...i totally thought of you when i saw the happy goth pics...
also strawberry...though she hasn't been around here much lately...


kimkhuu...hope you can find those pics...

 

[fashionista-ta]

ta-ta...i think david yurman is so ...total 'victim' status jwlry...
the price on the cape isn't that bad-you're right...
i'm just not used to see such prices on bluefly, you know?...
or even seeing dries there at all...
it's more a diesel and prada logo kind of site...
hmm...i might consider that dress actually...
not sure if it would look good on me though...

I think it would ... totally looks like something you would wear.

And thank you for confirming that about David Yurman He has the occasional nice piece, but I can't go there anymore I once had a pair of DY earrings, and I dropped one when I was putting them on & it flew under my house ... possible b/c I hadn't yet had quarter-round installed in my hallway after ripping out the carpet ... best thing that could've happened to it I guess My house is very good about looking out for me like that ... not only does it keep me warm & cozy, but it prevents me from being mistaken for a fashion victim as well

Btw, I think we need to re-energize this thread with a nice infusion of something Gothy ... I looked up descriptions of Jane Eyre's actual outfits with intent to post, but in truth they were awfully boring ... anyone have any other bright ideas?

 

[softgrey]

hey...
what are you talking about...???
...


i thought i was doing a nice job of posting pics here......

 

[softgrey]

le bijoux de sophie pin...
rakuten.com...B)

 

[softgrey]

sorry...wrong credit again...it's that satineboutique.com again...
...

 

[fashionista-ta]

hey...
what are you talking about...???
...


i thought i was doing a nice job of posting pics here......

Yes, you are ... of course you are

I was just thinking something thematic, something *major*

I just don't know what That editorial we've been *tantalized* with perhaps

 

[softgrey]

...

kimkhuu...i think ta-ta is talking to you!!......

mj at niemanmarcus.com

 

[DosViolines]

source: telegraph.co.uk

Looking scary, looking good
(Filed: 26/10/2005)
Gothic glamour is no longer just for rebellious teens and twentysomethings, says Clare Coulson. Black is back with a vengeance

Very occasionally, a trend emerges that seeps through all areas of culture, from film and music to interiors and beauty. One such trend this season is the glamorous, new image of gothic style.
Marc Jacobs kicked off the new mood with a catwalk show packed with gothic references, from the Edward Scissorhands soundtrack to the long black skirts, velvet-trimmed dresses and dark Edwardian silhouettes.
Last week, Tim Burton, the king of the modern gothic movie, released his latest macabre romance, The Corpse Bride, while black interiors - including matt black walls and glossy black accessories - are the most interesting new home trend. Slick black nail polish is currently considered to be über-chic, and Marilyn Manson, the scary-faced goth rocker, was in the front row at the Paris fashion shows last month.

However, gothic is difficult to wear. All those bleak colours and heavy silhouettes can be unflattering, and head-to-toe sinister will make you look more like a deranged teen than a mysterious modern goth. It's a look that needs a light touch and a hint of elegance to make it work.

Black velvet
Sumptuous dark velvet is a grown-up way to approach the gothic look. Layer a little jacket - Topshop has a cropped version (£45; 0845 121 4519) and M&S a velveteen drummer-boy jacket (£39.50; 0845 302 1234) - over a cream silk blouse and a full black silk skirt or, more casually, a pair of coal-black jeans.
There are also plenty of coquettish black velvet dresses around - the George at Asda range includes a long-sleeved, empire-line dress with a ruffled hem and deep V-neck (£16; 0500 100055). At the other end of the price scale, at Harvey Nichols, you will find a sweet version with elbow-length sleeves and a delicate lace underlay by New Yorker Derek Lam (£820; 020 7235 5000). Cropped black trousers can look just as cute as a dress - check out Mulberry's black velvet knickerbockers (£195; 020 7491 3900).

Lace blouses
All those dark colours need to be broken up with softer layers and lighter colours. A delicate lace blouse contrasts well with black velvet or wool. Whistles has an ornate, long-sleeved ivory blouse with a lace overlay and sleeves (£95; 0870 7704 301), while Rebecca Taylor's current collection includes a washed cream silk blouse with full sleeves and lace detailing at the neck (£125; 020 7629 9161).
Layer one of these with an antique black woollen waistcoat or with a vintage look, such as the washed cotton waistcoat with cream embroidery at Principles (£45; 0870 122 8802).

Jet jewellery
Simple Victorian pendants look great with Edwardian-style clothes, but jet - especially faceted jet - is probably the most dramatic jewellery to wear with a gothic look. Erickson Beamon's Sleepy Hollow collection includes chandelier earrings with jet and hermatite (from £150; 020 7259 0202) and jet lariat-style necklaces (from £350).
There are plenty of budget options, too. At Topshop, there are long charm necklaces with pearls and beads (£25, Freedom; 01277 844186), while Accessorize has jet chokers (£12) and long drop earrings with jet clusters (£8, 0870 412 9000). Wear one piece at a time, rather than piling it all on.

Lace-up boots
Marc Jacobs showed much of his collection with black socks and flat black patent shoes. However, lace-up boots with heels are more flattering. Whistles stocks black lace-up boots with piping detail (£180; 0870 704 901), while Principles has a similar, brogue style (£99; 0870 122 8802).

Gothic glamour is no longer just for rebellious teens. Black is back with a vengeance

Cotton blouse, sizes 4-18, £32, Gap; 0800 427 789. Waistcoat, 6-16, £30, Topshop; 0845 121 4519. Velvet skirt, 8-16, £125, Jigsaw Beyond at Jigsaw; 020 8392 5600

Lace-front blouse with tie neck, 8-14, £59, David Bitton; for stockists: 020 7436 3377, or davidbitton.co.uk. Long tweed skirt with ruffle-front, 8-18, £25, New Look; 0500 454 094. Lace-up boots, £99, Roberto Vianni; stockists: 020 7380 3800

Dickensian tweed jacket with peach satin trim, 8-18, £45, Principles; 0870 122 8802. High-neck blouse, 8-22, £25, Dorothy Perkins; 0845 121 4515. Satin skirt with side-tie, 6-16, £40, Topshop, as before

Cropped velvet jacket, 6-16, £45; sheer blouse with black buttons, 6-16, £30; satin skirt, Topshop, as before. Lace-up boots, £99, Roberto Vianni, as before. Jet drop earrings, £55, Angela Hale; 020 7495 1920, or angela-hale.co.uk

Silk blouse, 8-16, £175; velvet bloomers, 8-16, £195, Mulberry; 020 7491 3900

Photographed at Bovey Castle, in the heart of the Dartmoor National Park, Devon TQ13 8RE. For more information and reservations, tel: 01647 445000, see: boveycastle.com or e-mail: enquiries@ boveycastle.com

 

[Golden_butterfly]

this thread.

 

[softgrey]

thanks dosV...beat me to it once more.......

i don't like the pics so much...
but the advice is pretty spot on..
use a light touch and keep it elegant...

....

 

[DosViolines]

^ I wanted to post the telegraph.co.uk article on Roland Mouret, but you got there before me, so I settled for this

 

[softgrey]

...fair enough!!...

 

[fashionista-ta]

Love the article, thank you

I am channeling Dita today with my MJ jacket, black magic skirt, velvet heels, and my new very wild DKNY fishnets It's a great big triple-strand pattern--can't miss 'em

Btw, maybe the Gemma editorial's already been posted ... wasn't she in the Italian Vogue one?

 

[DosViolines]

A great article from nytimes.com

October 30, 2005
Embrace the Darkness

By RUTH LA FERLA


THE blue-tinted title figure in the new animated movie "Tim Burton's Corpse Bride" has matted hair and wears a corseted wedding dress that has been eaten away in spots, exposing swaths of flesh and yellowed ribs. Ravaged by her stay in the underworld, she is a fetching ruin and a frightening testament to what transpires when nature does its worst.

That unappetizing cartoon is just one of many Gothic images and themes that have seeped darkly into the culture. Books, movies, stage productions, photographs and, perhaps most emphatically, fashion are all evoking those familiar Gothic obsessions: death, decay, destructive passions and the specter of nature run amok. They've surfaced at times before, of course. But rarely since the mid-19th century, when it first became a crowd pleaser, has the Gothic aesthetic gained such a throttlehold on the collective imagination.

Its return has been noticeable this fall, just in time for Halloween, but it was already worming its way back into public view in the spring. That was when influential designers on both sides of the Atlantic paraded corseted gowns and black velvet tea dresses on the runways, not to mention high-necked frocks and coats worthy of Mrs. Danvers, the dour housekeeper of "Rebecca," the Daphne du Maurier psychological thriller that Alfred Hitchcock remade as a mystery classic.

Those fashions would be well suited to the ghostly creatures that inhabit "The Woman in White," the new Andrew Lloyd Webber musical arriving on Broadway next month, its story based on Wilkie Collins's Victorian thriller of the same name; or to the subjects of "The Perfect Medium: Photography and the Occult," an exhibition that has been drawing crowds since it opened a month ago at the Metropolitan Museum of Art; or to "The Historian," Elizabeth Kostova's best-selling novel that delves into the legend of Dracula.

Consumers too are following fashion and embracing a Gothic style. They are snapping up trinkets that they would once have dismissed as perverse or subversive: silver skull cuff links, chains interlaced with black ribbon in the manner of Victorian mourning jewelry, stuffed peacocks with Swarovski crystal eyes, and, as party favors, tiny rat and chicken skeletons, recent sellouts at Barneys New York.

Such fondness for Goth-tinged playthings attests to the mainstreaming of a trend that was once the exclusive domain of societal outcasts and freaks. These days Goth is "an Upper East Side way of being edgy without actually drinking anybody's blood," said Simon Doonan, the creative director of Barneys. With a wink he added, "Who doesn't like a vaseful of ostrich feathers at the end of the day?"

The costumes and ornaments are a glamorous cover for the genre's somber themes. In the world of Goth, nature itself lurks as a malign protagonist, causing flesh to rot, rivers to flood, monuments to crumble and women to turn into slatterns, their hair streaming and lipstick askew.

Some scholars see the Gothic mood as especially resonant in periods of uncertainty. Allen Grove, an associate professor of English at Alfred University in Alfred, N.Y., theorizes that during war or in the aftermath of disaster, whether wrought by a hurricane or a terrorist cell, dark themes surface in part as a way to confront society's worst fears.

"We're somehow trying to deal with calamity and death," said Dr. Grove, who teaches a popular course on the literature of horror. "Revisiting Gothic themes might be one way to embrace those things and try to come to terms with them."

Olivier Theyskens, whose designs for the French fashion house Rochas are often identified with a Gothic style, says he is not surprised that his devotees want to explore the dark side along with him. People like to feel strong, shattering emotions like longing or dread "when they are feeling vulnerable," Mr. Theyskens said.

Other designers are consciously catering to that need. The fashion world has touched on Gothic themes before, but Riccardo Tisci, Jean Paul Gaultier, Marc Jacobs and Stefano Pilati of Yves Saint Laurent revisited them with particular zeal last spring, casting runway models as glamorous ghouls dressed in form-fitting suits and coal-tinted cocktail dresses that might have materialized straight from the pages of "The Turn of the Screw."

"We're going through a moment which is defined by severity and austerity," said Andrew Bolton, an associate curator at the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Somber hues and a rigid silhouette, he added, are the means by which some designers are expressing a broodingly romantic streak.

A case in point is Alexander McQueen, who said his fall collection had been inspired by "The Birds," the 1963 Hitchcock classic in which Tippi Hedren wears a chastely structured suit that is clawed to shreds by a flock of angry crows. Mr. McQueen, who acknowledges a melancholy influence in his work, makes deliberate references to "darkness and the macabre," he said, as a way of thumbing his nose at conventional notions of beauty.

The fashion glossies, too, have dipped into the morbid, showcasing mutton-sleeve black gowns and tea dresses and, in one case, a feathered white evening gown hatched by Dolce & Gabbana that might as well have emerged from a taxidermist's studio. Some fashion spreads have invoked a pair of popular Goth bands of the 80's, the Cure and Siouxsie and the Banshees, whose music has been taken up by a new generation.

A Goth aesthetic is also turning up in movie costumes. In "Asylum," a late-summer release based on the Patrick McGrath novel, Natasha Richardson plays Stella, a psychiatrist's wife who falls for an inmate of a mental institution. In a pivotal scene she wears a severely provocative black dress meant to be restrictive and mysterious, said Consolata Boyle, the film's costume designer. The dress, she said, metaphorically covers up "oceans and oceans of what we don't know." Tear it off, she went on, and "you are releasing something primitive and animalistic, something to which most women can relate."

Douglas Little is a designer who has parlayed a lifelong affinity for skulls, Victorian curiosity cabinets, stuffed beasts and poisonous vapors into a lucrative career peddling wax effigies, skeletons, Ouija board tables and sickly sweet fragrances with evocative names like Thorn Apple. To him the popularity of these items reflects a growing taste for the eccentric and the exotic, which itself is a reaction, he says, to the antiseptically "clean design" that dominated interiors in recent years.

"People are tired of everything cold and sterile," Mr. Little said. "The seem to prefer things that are elaborate and even bizarre."

And mingled at times with a touch of the macabre. Among the treasures Mr. Little sells in the home department at Barneys is a 19th-century human skeleton, which he unearthed at a medical auction. When he first showed it to the Barneys merchants, they were taken aback, he said.

Not so the customers. Visiting the store the other day Mr. Little was accosted by a fastidiously dressed shopper who recognized him as the man responsible for the department's grisly décor. Cutting short her examination of the skeleton, which was displayed amid Baccarat crystal and Missoni furnishings, she darted toward him.

"I thought she was going to lay into me," Mr. Little said. Instead, he said, she turned to him brightly and confided: "You know, when I go, I want to be right here on the home floor at Barneys."

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][SIZE=-1]From left: Warner Brothers Pictures; Manuel Harlan/Reuters; Ron P. Jaffe/CBS/Paramount[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][SIZE=-1]THE NEW BLACK: Goth is in, from left: "Tim Burton's Corpse Bride," the Broadway musical "The Woman in White," and the TV show "NCIS." [/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][SIZE=-1]Jack Dabaghian/Reuters[/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][SIZE=-1]DARK DESIGNS: Jean Paul Gaultier's fall collection hinted at the macabre. Olivier Theyskens, Riccardo Tisci, Marc Jacobs and Stefano Pilati also went a bit Goth.[/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][SIZE=-1]Jean-Luce Hure for The New York Times, left; Everett Collection[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][SIZE=-1]An Alexander McQueen fall suit and its inspiration, Tippi Hedren in "The Birds."[/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][SIZE=-1]Marilynn K. Yee/The New York Times[/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][SIZE=-1]Part of Douglas Little's display at Barneys.[/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][SIZE=-1]Tim Mosenfelder/Getty Images[/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][SIZE=-1]Siouxsie Sioux in 1991.[/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][SIZE=-1]Colm Hogan/Paramount Classics[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][SIZE=-1]Natasha Richardson in "Asylum"[/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][SIZE=-1]Firstview[/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][SIZE=-1]A Riccardo Tisci design for fall.[/SIZE][/FONT]

 

[utopia]

i totally agree...ta-ta...
nice stuff...and i am not usually a fan of 'fine' jewelry...

i also noticed that utopia was wearing a victorian spoon made into a bracelet today which is very cool...

utopia...
when you have time...
maybe you could post a close up of that here?...
i wish i had bought one when i was in london now...

glady acid can attest to the fact that I was searching london high and low for spoon bracelets this summer (I collect them), though sadly I didn't find any. ironically, I found this one in a random little antique shop in texas...for $5. I it so much...

 

[DosViolines]

^ Love your bracelet utopia

source: nytimes.com

October 30, 2005
Style

The Selma Blair Witch Project

Photographs by ROGER BALLEN


The Shadow Chamber is adorned with strange artifacts and cryptic markings and populated by characters you might not wish to encounter alone on a dimly lighted street at night. It is a place where the South African-based artist Roger Ballen has spent a lot of time lately, making photographs and scratching his consciousness. It is also the title of his new book, out from Phaidon. "When you take your eyeballs and you turn them around in your head, things happen," says Ballen, who once favored and then later abandoned a more documentary view of life.

The artist is projecting, of course. But the outside world, too, has been known to show a pretty sinister face. And not just to Ballen. In fact, some of the more interesting clothes of the season appear to have been conceived with this dark place in mind, even if the designer versions come elaborately embroidered or trimmed in astrakhan. Ballen had never photographed fashion, but he found it a willing accomplice to his vision - so, too, the fearless Selma Blair, who appears this month in a remake of "The Fog." "Fashion creates the illusion of beauty, of the world being perfect," Ballen says. "But we know that even when you dress in these clothes, the world is not that way. You can't ever rid yourself of the shadow."

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][SIZE=-1]Resemblance: Rochas stretch ottoman short-sleeve jacket, $2,513, and matching skirt, $1,789. At Barneys New York. Moschino shoes.[/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][SIZE=-1]Roger Ballen for The New York Times[/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][SIZE=-1]Penumbra: Givency Haute Couture hand-felted-wool jacket with Vulture feathers and trapped-feather-embroidered Georgette dress. To order, (212) 650-0055. Costume National gloves.[/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][SIZE=-1]Roger Ballen for The New York Times[/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][SIZE=-1]A Puppy Called Pebbles: Miu Miu kalgan-and-Mongolian-fur coat, $3,100. At select Miu Miu boutiques. Dior by John Galliano sweater, $1,285. At select Dior boutiques. Yohji Yamamoto scarf, $320. At Yohji Yamamoto, 103 Grand Street. Hue stockings (torn by stylist). [/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][SIZE=-1]Roger Ballen for The New York Times[/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][SIZE=-1]Markings: Dolce & Gabbana Chiffon minidress, $2,750. At Dolce & Gabbana boutiques. Yohji Yamamoto shoes.[/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][SIZE=-1]Roger Ballen for The New York Times[/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][SIZE=-1]Vestiges: Louis Vuitton Autumn in Vienna necklace, $1,260. At www.vuitton.com.[/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][SIZE=-1]Roger Ballen for The New York Times[/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][SIZE=-1]Onslaught: Louis Vuitton cashmere coat, $3,565. At www.vuitton.com. Jil Sander fingerless gloves. Wolford tights (cut by stylist). [/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][SIZE=-1]Roger Ballen for The New York Times[/SIZE][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, San Serif][SIZE=-1]Attraction: Riccardo Tisci black silk georgette fringed dress, about $1,053. At Barneys New York. Riccardo Tisci boots.[/SIZE][/FONT]