Valentino Haute Couture F/W 10.11 Paris

[kahlen1234]

There are some pretty pieces, but overall I'm left underwhelmed. Despite the fact that Maria and Pier are moving drastically away from the old Valentino, there's just nothing new or special about this collection. It's nice, but uninspired.

 

[girlalamode]

I'm not sure what I think about this, just all wrong for Valentino.

 

[elle_gb]

I just love Valentino new era, each collections could see progession.

 

[disco54]

I will take Elie Saab over this any day, this looks like couture for nickelodean ,this looks likes its meant for 13 -14 year old girls

 

[rip_ian curtis]

I'ts nice, beautiful and even remotely Valentino, but as a whole it is also very average. Something that should not be associated with Haute Couture or with Valentino.

 

[Le Misanthrope]

I do like the collection, on the whole. They may not be typically Valentino, but I totally appreciate this little risk they took with the collection. I do like the fact that it was soft and almost of a monotonous tone of colour.

 

[mikeijames]

this is light-years better than the spring/summer haute couture collection and yes, it does recall the serious glory days of the haute couture. the idea of haute couture that valentino himself helped to fashion in our minds from the sixties. and yes, there exist dresses that would look amazing -- especially the black dress with the white floral detail on the front -- on any number of today's top socialites and starlets. however, if they could but find a middleground between the edge from the best of their ready-to-wear (i'm thinking the stuff of lace shoes, leather ruffles, and ethereal beaded tees), the exuberance of spirit from their spring couture (it just wasn't valentino, it was creative, and it was vibrant, just not valentino), and this heritage, they might be onto something.

that and a dollop of consistency. then, they might have a fighting chance at reclaiming this house. seriously, the gowns they crafted looked great at valentino's latest bash and this stuff isn't that far off that mark.

style.com

 

[4n98]

I love this collection.
so elegant.

 

[Dkammern]

One other thing that would maybe help them get confident in one direction would be not having Valentino around, who has officially left but is still quite present...

He attended their first couture show sitting front row, sobbing, a standing applause and so on...
Then there was the movie... so everyone had the opportunity to say 'oh how very much they missed him'
Just recently he inaugurated a retrospective exhibition of his work... because you know, couture isnt what it used to be anymore...

So he planned to retire "when the party was still full" as he said, but he still wants to get attention, so it's like he has grabbed his coat, he is on his way out, but there's always someone to talk to in the lobby... so there is no way he is leaving!
Why wont he just take his yacht and leave somewhere far far from Paris! Let the (baguette) couple do their job!!! Them, or whoever can do it comme il faut!

 

[mikeijames]

^yves saint laurent didn't do tom ford nor stefano pilati that favor. also, emanuel ungaro bowed out gracefully and we see the free fall that house has experienced.

 

[Chris_Couture05]

One other thing that would maybe help them get confident in one direction would be not having Valentino around, who has officially left but is still quite present...

He attended their first couture show sitting front row, sobbing, a standing applause and so on...
Then there was the movie... so everyone had the opportunity to say 'oh how very much they missed him'
Just recently he inaugurated a retrospective exhibition of his work... because you know, couture isnt what it used to be anymore...

So he planned to retire "when the party was still full" as he said, but he still wants to get attention, so it's like he has grabbed his coat, he is on his way out, but there's always someone to talk to in the lobby... so there is no way he is leaving!
Why wont he just take his yacht and leave somewhere far far from Paris! Let the (baguette) couple do their job!!! Them, or whoever can do it comme il faut!

Why should'nt he still have a presence at his company. He poured his heart and soul into it for 45 years, no way he is just going to leave quietly. They are adults they should be able to hold their own at this company no matter how is around and after than last couture collection its a good thing he stayed around. As for the documentary, they started filming that 2 years before he even retired so you cant say he put that out when he did to take back the attention. And for the exhibition of his work, I dont see the problem of doing that. If anything this should remind the new desingers of the heritage that they have recived and that they should take care of it. Most (not all) designers are super control freaks so its not natural for them to just had over their line. So you cant blame Valentino's presence at HIS OWN COMPANY for the piss poor job that they are doing because thats all on them. But like I said before this is their strongest collection since their first, but they still have work to do.

^yves saint laurent didn't do tom ford nor stefano pilati that favor. also, emanuel ungaro bowed out gracefully and we see the free fall that house has experienced.

I completly agree, if Ungaro had stayed and keep a better eye on his brand it would not be in such horrible shape.

 

[mikeijames]

not to beat a dead horse, but calvin klein has also maintained a public profile and francisco costa performs magic at that house.

 

[Dkammern]

^^ although I "kind of" agree with YSLs case, I can't count it as the same case scenario...
First, because it is Tom Ford we are talking about here, and he's a tough guy to beat B)
And second, because the way Valentino has acted is erratic, and shows that his decision to leave might have been, after all, not so well meditated (or even that it could have been someone else's decision... more on that later though)
I didn't mean to say that all he has done was meant to distract people from the new designers' work. There have been intentional things, and others perhaps more circumstantial (like the movie)... but he clearly hasn't done anything to prevent the latter from affecting the company's output (read between the lines, he is an attention wh#re)
Everyone expected YSL would disapprove Ford's work... he was a depressed ill neurotic... he had always been, so on that we could pass.
But I thought Valentino would be different. It sure was no good sign that all he could say about Alessandra after meeting her was that... "she was pretty".
There was clearly no intention of helping her in anyway. Then after her first collections, there were all this talks about Valentino telling his old clients not to buy anything from her.
After she was fired, the new designers* came and he seemed to be all happy again. Of course, after that uber-archival premiere, he could be. Everyone criticized the collection (unlike Alessandra's) so he was pleased. There was some wannabes at the house that coulndt quite repeat his genius. He says it in his movie "àpres moi le déluge" (after me, the great flood) ... you see? proof that he is an attention wh#re
About the label still being "his company"... it is in no way his company!! or not any more than Vuitton is Marc Jacobs' company really. After many financial problems during his career, an offer from HdP came, and he couldn't refuse it.
After that, the Marzotto group bought it, and they are now the owners of the brand.
My conspiracy theory is that he found himself in the same situation Jil Sander had faced years before, only he was too coward to say he didnt get along well with Marzotto, and would instead tell everyone that it is time to retire.

It's actually quite appropriate that I've mentioned Jil Sander because she didnt get along too well with Bertelli (mr Prada) so she much more discretely had to leave "her own company", only to come back last year with Uniqlo.
great move from her i must say! The Jil Sander line clearly hasnt suffered, no?
It may seem a little unfair that there is someone else using her name to design clothes, but you know, life isnt fair, so that's what you get when you sell your soul to devil (devil wears prada much?) and as everything in life will teach you something, this I am sure made her choose a better lawyer when she signed her contract with Uniqlo.

One last thing! Calvin Klein... not sure it is a good example. After all, it's not the same to step down, than to do so and denigrate the work of whoever follows! of course, we could say there is very little to criticize about Costa's work

*(note that I fear writing their names... bloody italian "ch"s and "cc"s I always get it wrong and misspell )

 

[agee]

^Interesting thoughts. Whether by accident of design, Garavani does seem to have gotten the best of both worlds - many on the outside lamenting his loss and giving the current team the full Rodney Dangerfield treatment while the current team continuously pay homage to him with their archival-inspired collections - styling and all. Didn't the current team work for him for a number of years?

ETA:
Weren't there reports, perhaps unsubstantiated that Alessandra Facchinetti got on Garavani's bad side by not kissing up to him? Note, if no one else has heard this please disregard this comment / question because I don't want to be at the root of some baseless internet gossip.

 

[mikeijames]

^^ although I "kind of" agree with YSLs case, I can't count it as the same case scenario...
First, because it is Tom Ford we are talking about here, and he's a tough guy to beat B)
And second, because the way Valentino has acted is erratic, and shows that his decision to leave might have been, after all, not so well meditated (or even that it could have been someone else's decision... more on that later though)
I didn't mean to say that all he has done was meant to distract people from the new designers' work. There have been intentional things, and others perhaps more circumstantial (like the movie)... but he clearly hasn't done anything to prevent the latter from affecting the company's output (read between the lines, he is an attention wh#re)
Everyone expected YSL would disapprove Ford's work... he was a depressed ill neurotic... he had always been, so on that we could pass.
But I thought Valentino would be different. It sure was no good sign that all he could say about Alessandra after meeting her was that... "she was pretty".
There was clearly no intention of helping her in anyway. Then after her first collections, there were all this talks about Valentino telling his old clients not to buy anything from her.
After she was fired, the new designers* came and he seemed to be all happy again. Of course, after that uber-archival premiere, he could be. Everyone criticized the collection (unlike Alessandra's) so he was pleased. There was some wannabes at the house that coulndt quite repeat his genius. He says it in his movie "àpres moi le déluge" (after me, the great flood) ... you see? proof that he is an attention wh#re
About the label still being "his company"... it is in no way his company!! or not any more than Vuitton is Marc Jacobs' company really. After many financial problems during his career, an offer from HdP came, and he couldn't refuse it.
After that, the Marzotto group bought it, and they are now the owners of the brand.
My conspiracy theory is that he found himself in the same situation Jil Sander had faced years before, only he was too coward to say he didnt get along well with Marzotto, and would instead tell everyone that it is time to retire.

It's actually quite appropriate that I've mentioned Jil Sander because she didnt get along too well with Bertelli (mr Prada) so she much more discretely had to leave "her own company", only to come back last year with Uniqlo.
great move from her i must say! The Jil Sander line clearly hasnt suffered, no?
It may seem a little unfair that there is someone else using her name to design clothes, but you know, life isnt fair, so that's what you get when you sell your soul to devil (devil wears prada much?) and as everything in life will teach you something, this I am sure made her choose a better lawyer when she signed her contract with Uniqlo.

One last thing! Calvin Klein... not sure it is a good example. After all, it's not the same to step down, than to do so and denigrate the work of whoever follows! of course, we could say there is very little to criticize about Costa's work

*(note that I fear writing their names... bloody italian "ch"s and "cc"s I always get it wrong and misspell )

the comparison to yves saint laurent remains apt because of all of the histrionics he put tom ford through during his tenure there. remember, yves saint laurent sold his company to the gucci group knowing full well that his company would receive the tom ford treatment. after tom ford took the reins, yves saint laurent really let loose and he influenced lots of negative angst despite tom ford creating breath-taking beauty at his house

style.com

if we take other examples like jil sander, we see that even though the designer wanted to exert will over the house which bore her name, the designers still performed -- indeed, perform still -- in ways that we can applaud. if maria grazia chiuri and pier paolo piccioli want to make names for themselves as marquee designers, they need to have the ability to make magic happen despite the controversy.

with that said, the controversy, unlike many examples we've posted, stands justified with these two. this collection proves they haven't got a firm footing at the house of valentino quite yet. and outside of a great public relations' team placing their dress on bold faced names and buzzworthy advertisements, one hasn't seen much -- seriously, a few pieces here and there -- to make us think they'll succeed in the way that other marquee designers have at revitalized houses.

 

[Chris_Couture05]

And second, because the way Valentino has acted is erratic, and shows that his decision to leave might have been, after all, not so well meditated (or even that it could have been someone else's decision... more on that later though)

I didn't mean to say that all he has done was meant to distract people from the new designers' work. There have been intentional things, and others perhaps more circumstantial (like the movie)... but he clearly hasn't done anything to prevent the latter from affecting the company's output (read between the lines, he is an attention wh#re)

Everyone expected YSL would disapprove Ford's work... he was a depressed ill neurotic... he had always been, so on that we could pass.
But I thought Valentino would be different. It sure was no good sign that all he could say about Alessandra after meeting her was that... "she was pretty".

There was clearly no intention of helping her in anyway. Then after her first collections, there were all this talks about Valentino telling his old clients not to buy anything from her.
After she was fired, the new designers* came and he seemed to be all happy again. Of course, after that uber-archival premiere, he could be. Everyone criticized the collection (unlike Alessandra's) so he was pleased. There was some wannabes at the house that coulndt quite repeat his genius. He says it in his movie "àpres moi le déluge" (after me, the great flood) ... you see? proof that he is an attention wh#re

About the label still being "his company"... it is in no way his company!! or not any more than Vuitton is Marc Jacobs' company really. After many financial problems during his career, an offer from HdP came, and he couldn't refuse it.
After that, the Marzotto group bought it, and they are now the owners of the brand.

My conspiracy theory is that he found himself in the same situation Jil Sander had faced years before, only he was too coward to say he didnt get along well with Marzotto, and would instead tell everyone that it is time to retire.

Ok I cut out the parts of your post that I did not want to comment on lol.

But anyway I agree with you, yes Valentino is a major attention wh#re and I also do not think that his exit or lack there of from the house was all his choosing we could clearly see that in the movie. He had many disputes with Marzotto on camera. So maybe his presence at the house or his archival presentation are a way of holding on to the brand.

Also I have to agree that there may have been some intentional things he has done, because now that I think about it Im remembering an intreview from the April issue of Bazaar where he stated that "I could'nt say I like everything the design. They try to hard to be cool and, lose sight of the heritage that they have recived." But then agian they could have been him just stating his opinion even if there is a hell of a lot truth in it.

Now on him telling his client not to buy from Alessandra, I have never heared that before, but that does not mean it did not happen. But I have heard that part of the reason she was let go is because her collections did not sell well. But I cant see these new collections selling well either. But Im going to assum that he did not lend a hand to help her because he did not pick her in the first place. But I have to agree with him on the "àpres moi le déluge" statment because look whats happening.

You were also right about him not owning the company. I completly forgot about that whole situation.

So let me ask you a question, do u personally think that some of the things he is doing may it be intentional or not, his attempt to bring the focus back to him so he can reclam his brand?

 

[kinkexplosion]

I loooove this! perfection!

 

[Perickles]

I love this collection. Critiscism pontificates the maximun alternative. My favorites are the bubble one and the black dress wore by Tati Cotliar

 

[Fatalefashion]

Valentino - HC F/W 10.11 - Full Show in HQ

 

[SweetRevenge]

gorgeous!