Versus , the
Versace junior brand, revived by the British designer Christopher Kane, created a buzz — not least with its lively set of a child’s playground. But the clothes that walked the green grass were not wild child clothes that might have been shown on swings in the park. They were grow-up versions of Mr. Kane’s aesthetic, from his native Scottish plaid to cheeky short, full dresses.
But mostly the clothes were calm, long and even a little constricting, with over-the-knee hemlines on slim, elongated dresses.
What worked was the melange of plaid and tiny florals, which were in
Gianni Versace’s repertoire back in the 1980s. There was a fresh feel, stemming from the fact that Mr. Kane was just a child during those early years.
The Milan season, which closed on Monday, was the strongest for a long period. Vivid color, a real attempt to change proportions with long skirts and a general feeling of summer joy permeated the shows. And if the 1970s revival was a tad too present, the major designers wisely left behind the past to build fashion’s future.
By SUZY MENKES
Published: September 27, 2010