W does still excite at times, but I often think that that has to do with how comparatively lackluster the publication landscape has become in the last two years or so. It's better than every other US publication, save for Interview. Marie-Amélie Sauvé should be contributing more often; particularly as she has a title at the magazine.
Exactly! Because American fashion magazines have to appeal to the masses-- which like their fashion pretty and safe, the result is a bland, homogenized asembly-line output. W does seem to make an effort in giving something more than just what the likes of AMerican Vogue, Elle, Bazaar and V are doing-- but that doesn't make it great. It's like saying it's the best-- of the mediocre bunch... (I won't bring Canadian magazines into the fold, because they're even more dire and by-the-numbers worse than the weakest of American magazines. So yes, if you think Bazaar is the worst, take some time to peruse Flare, Fashion or Elle Canada.)
With W, I always fell the potential leading up to some possible greatness, but most of the time-- miss the mark. It can't be the high-profile photographers, because their work with other magazines are always stronger. And as much as I don't prefer Enninful's type of styling-- which is too cluttered and department-store for my taste, he has definitely defined his brand of styling (his success seems to be that his styling is very wearable and relatable to women), so I can at least appreciate that. And the art department is only as strong as the editor allows--and encourages them to be. So the blame is with Tonchi. I feel he simply cannot commit, dedicate, or enforce a sense of direction for the W brand, so he throws it all out there, and hopes something at least sticks. That lack of direction and consistency may be mistaken for variety, but it's an easy cop-out; his "creative" direction/approach comes across passive and aimless to me.
To keep in topic with the Dec cover, which is such a perfect example of his non-committment to a strong direction. Marion is a fashion editor's dream; that face, her sense of the dramatics and the camera worships her: she's in a classic high fashion pose in iconic Dior-- yet those hands timidly coming out of the seamless are so-- timid, weak and distracting, when it should-- and meant to be strong and dramatic. Tonchi can't seem to decide if he wants a modern classic image, or a whimsical-theatrical image, and he isn't strong enough to pull off a fusion of the two. It would have looked much better without the hands in this case. I can appreciate his efforts, but his final results-- which is all that matters, is so awkwardly amateur for someone in such a high-position, it's unacceptable. Well, to me at least.
***As for the credits in the editorial: I'm glad they're an accompaniment instead of relegated to the back-pages. Designers, new and established, need the exposure for themselves/houses, and smart fashion directors like Enninful realizes that to keep the credits along with the editorial is a positive gesture and goodwill on the magazine's part. And Enninful is also a courteous gentleman who does not shortchange the designers he pulls from-- unlike some other more high-profile stylists, who can be very underhanded and nasty.