Story starts:
Analysis: A year in Vogue: the story behind the gloss; Alexandra Shulman
Independent 09-27-2004
NOVEMBER 2003
COVER STAR: Elizabeth Hurley
PHOTOGRAPHER: Mario Testino
SALE: 202,028 YEAR-ON-YEAR: down 1%
STORY: This coincided with the Fashion Rocks event that Nicholas Coleridge, my managing director, was organising. I decided it would be nice for Vogue to reflect that. Elizabeth Hurley was the compere of it, but we wanted to dress her in a slightlyrock-chic style, rather than in a ball gown, so she's wearing a rock'n'roll outfit by Armani. It pleased Armani; it pleased Elizabeth Hurley; and it pleased me as it came off as a coherent idea.
Editor's verdict: Because November is a difficult sales month, a pleasant surprise.
DECEMBER 2003
COVER STAR: Kylie Minogue
PHOTOGRAPHER: Nick Knight
SALE: 201,629 YEAR-ON-YEAR: up 14%
STORY: This magazine came with a Christmas-present supplement, which proved very popular. Kylie in a champagne glass - it's one of my favourite covers of the year. The concept was by Nick Knight and Robin Derrick. We had put Kylie on the cover a year ortwo previously, just as she was making her comeback. It did very badly, because no one was ready for it. This cover was celebratory. Kylie is pop, but there's a bit of fashion about her.
Editor's verdict: Sales were 14 per cent up year-on-year, so I was very pleased with that.
JANUARY 2004
COVER STAR: Natalia Vodianova
PHOTOGRAPHER: Tesh
SALE: 191,802 YEAR-ON-YEAR: up 2%
STORY: January is a totally unpredictable issue. Sometimes it does well, sometimes it doesn't. My favourite was the cover with all the British models dressed in Union flags that we did after 11 September. It was a fantastic cover, but it did so badly.With this one, we decided to do a "What's New in 2004" theme. I wanted to use a dress by Jonathan Saunders. I don't always have such a specific idea, but I had been to his successful show in September.
Editor's verdict: For quite a stark cover, I thought it performed well.
FEBRUARY 2004
COVER STAR: Cate Blanchett
PHOTOGRAPHER: Tesh
SALE: 220,745 YEAR-ON-YEAR: up 2%
STORY: We tried to tie this in with the release of The Missing, but the date was put back. Cate Blanchett is beautiful and I'm a huge fan of her acting. February has a catwalk report and is one of our strongest -selling months. If an actress is in amovie that's doing well, we'll get sales. Get an actress at the wrong time, and it won't necessarily sell. With this one, the film just didn't happen - when you work two or three months in advance, that can happen.
Editor's verdict: I was slightly disappointed. I thought she'd sell better than she did.
MARCH 2004
COVER STAR: Natalia Vodianova
PHOTOGRAPHER: Mario Testino
SALE: 223,054 YEAR-ON-YEAR: no change
STORY: I wanted something soft to match the cover line. Vodianova is in this pink, drapy Valentino dress. A lot of people buy the March issue to see the international collections, which also come out in September. This particular month, Harpers & Queencopied the shoe supplement that we had done the previous October - an unoriginal but very deliberate attempt to target the fashion readership.
Editor's verdict: A lot of magazines were adding giveaways to their covers, so I was surprised at the sales we got.
APRIL 2004
COVER STAR: Lily Cole & Gemma Ward
PHOTOGRAPHER: Nick Knight
SALE: 192,699 YEAR-ON-YEAR: down 16%
STORY: This wasn't shot as a cover but as part of a story inside. We had actually shot a Mother's Day cover, featuring Angela Lindvall and Liya Kebede with their children. I had the picture on the wall in the office and kept getting a negative reactionto it. I realised I was making a wrong call. It wasn't gregarious or fashiony enough, so I thought, let's try the Nick Knight picture. But I did feel terrible, because the models had brought their children.
Editor's verdict: So many people said, "It's such an amazing cover". But did it sell? No.
MAY 2004
COVER STAR: Scarlett Johansson
PHOTOGRAPHER: Corinne Day
SALE: 214,288 YEAR-ON-YEAR: 33% up
STORY: I love this cover. I went to see Lost in Translation and I just fell in love with Scarlett Johansson. The next day, I said, "I want her on our next cover". I thought she was the perfect girl, and I didn't want to lose the quality that she had inthe film. I wanted Corinne Day to shoot her because I admire the way she doesn't over-glamorise girls. But when the image came in, she had over retouched it, so we sent it back to get her to put back some of Johansson's humanity.
Editor's verdict: Everyone loved it - it's a crowd-pleaser.
JUNE 2004
COVER STAR: Giselle Bundchen
PHOTOGRAPHER: Carter Smith
SALE: 198,669 YEAR-ON-YEAR: 6% down
STORY: When I first saw this image, I didn't like it. I thought that it was too coy, and I wasn't keen on how exposed the dress was. But when we put it on the cover, it did kind of work because it is a beachy, summery issue. The picture was part of afashion shoot but was taken with the idea that it might make a good cover. This issue of Vogue came with a beauty supplement, but I don't think it was as strong as the one we had done the previous year.
Editor's verdict: I was a bit disappointed in this one.
JULY 2004
COVER STAR: Keira Knightley
PHOTOGRAPHER: Tesh
SALE: 199,494 YEAR-ON-YEAR: 5% up
STORY: We spelt Keira Knightley's name wrong, so that wasn't great, but it worked well. I didn't want her to look too young. She has a Fifties feel about her in this picture. We weren't sure whether this was going to work as a cover. I didn't feel like Idid about Scarlett Johansson. Knightley was in that rubbish film King Arthur, but she was the beautiful girl of the moment. I think that Vogue should always reflect the people who are in the style arena at the time.
Editor's verdict: This one did surprisingly well.
AUGUST 2004
COVER STAR: Carolyn Murphy PHOTOGRAPHER: Mario Testino
SALE: 215,486 YEAR-ON-YEAR: 2% up
STORY: We are back into the new season in August. Carolyn Murphy was a waif model in the Nineties. She doesn't do a lot of editorial work, but she's lovely looking and elegant - I thought it would be nice to have someone sophisticated at this point.August is a big issue for us, and has the catwalk supplement, which is increasingly important to the industry because clothes are going into stores earlier and earlier.
Editor's verdict: I felt that it was a very classic Vogue cover, and would have liked it to have sold more than it did.
SEPTEMBER 2004
COVER STAR: Kate Moss
PHOTOGRAPHER: Nick Knight
SALE: 223,230 (est) YEAR-ON-YEAR: 4% down (est)
STORY: This exotic, slightly decadent look was a strong trend. We hadn't had Kate Moss on the cover for a while (she'd cancelled a couple of shoots, I don't know why). So we booked Kate and Nick Knight. I wanted the dress to be from the Yves SaintLaurent collection that Tom Ford designed. To make it look even richer, we added gold, which has cost implications. It's very luxurious. I wanted readers to think, "I have something very different from Elle or Marie Claire".
Editor's verdict: It's very sumptuous, very Vogue.
OCTOBER 2004
COVER STAR: Elle MacPherson
PHOTOGRAPHER: Mario Testino
SALE: N/A YEAR-ON-YEAR: N/A
STORY: I had met Elle and we had talked about her underwear range. I was impressed with how evangelical she was, and how incredible she looked. Vogue had never put her on the cover - she's more of an Elle girl, and you are either one or the other. Thereason I put her on the cover is that she is living in England now, and she has this incredible range, plus she's 40 and looks unbelievable.
Editor's verdict: I will be disappointed if it does not do well. It has all the ingredients.