US Vogue July: major thumb down.
This is the worst issue this year, an unsuccessful redesign of the layout. First, the sectorial titles are changed for the worse: "Vogue Files" is now "Need It Now." Creatively, corporate push is ever prominent. It has only been seven publishing months into 2004 and Louis Vuitton has had two covers (Jennifer Aniston in Jan., Kirsten Dunst in July), and if you count Natalie Portman's dress for Feb. Vogue, that would be three Marc Jacobs design. Narciso Rodriguez also got featured on the cover twice (Uma Thurman for last November, Kate Hudson for June) within a short time span and the dresses are so darn similar.
Corporate push continues to manifest itself in editorials. Prada is very good at getting its stuff into pre-fall issues (the extent to which its tweedy designs were seen on magazine pages last year could only be described as epidemic), and this time it succeeds in placing lots and lots of Jil Sander and Helmut Lang as well. Gucci is also prominently featured, but it is the ugliest outfits that got selected, despite the collection's being stronger than YSL.
No new advertisement in Vogue, but Escada debuted in Bazaar.
The "new look" looks quite messy and I'm surprised Vogue let go of its neat page layout. I was a fan of its old template for society pages and whatnot. The Constume Inst. Gala "collage" is very badly puttogether. The picture they show in the largest size has puffy-armed Linda Evangelista and Mozart-haired Amber Valletta. I like to see more off-duty models, but not like this.
The editorials:
Karolina Kurkova looks awfully manly in her 1-pg picture.
Propriety Values: Karen Elson and Liya Kebede by Craig McDean, showcasing the signature looks from various designers. This Marc Jacobs dress looked perfect on Gemma Ward on the runway and is destined to become a hit now that Vogue and Bazaar have photographed it.
Balenciaga's color-chain one-shoulder jersey dress is also emerging as the It item of the season.
McDean's photography is great, but the clothes are horrible. Gucci's green fur stole and micro-fringe gowns, Prada's shapelessly layered, darb-colored ensembles, Versace's throwback to the worse part of the 80's... You name it. Tacky extravegance.
It Happened One Night: Vogue recycles the editorial title of a memorable Karen Elson-Steven Meisel collaboration from March 2000 for Mario Testino's shoot of Daria Werbowy and Jake Gyllenhaal. Daria has been looking sickly skinny lately and her deep-set eyes do not look 1/10 as good as they did in "Ladies Club" (from the March editorial with Isabeli Fontana, also photographed by Testino). The whole thing pretty much sucks.
A Clean Slate: Natalia Vodianova photographed by Patrick Demarchelier. The editorial celebrating minimalism actually showcases some show-topping pieces (Helmut Lang's blue trench coat, for example),
and Demarchelier is the perfect photographer for the project, but the problem is with Natalia, whose racoon eyes make her look so lifeless and, well, unattractive.
The Kirsten Dunst editorial with Testino shows nice, youthful outfits that are along the lines of Scarlett Johansson's Elle shoot: Chloe, Marni, lots of sunshine.
Verdict: Not recommended.
Allure is even worse. The Kate Hudson cover does look like her Bazaar cover years ago (as noted by Isabella), but it is so air-brushed that when you look at her candid pictures with the crew inside, you see the difference immediately. She is at least digitally downsized by 4 dress sizes.
Beauty editorial: Angela Lindvall by Mario Testino. This is Testino channelling Mert & Marcus's color theory. Don't like it (and I love Angela).
Hair editorial: Marija, 3 pgs
Fashion editorial (denim

Caroline Winberg by Michael Thompson, plain awful.
Next month, Julia Stegner will have an editorial.