LOVED
Kenzo: Probably my favorite collection of the season...I don't know...I just really responded to this collection. Partially, I would say, because I have a weak spot for japonism. The colors were beautiful, the prints were striking, the set was magnificent and the finale was positively breathtaking. I haven't seen a fashion moment so breathtaking as this since McQueen FW 06.
Balenciaga: Exactly what fashion needed. I feel like Ghesquiere is, with this collection, finally bringing back women to fashion...strong, sexy, independent, perverse, confident and powerful women. I feel like we haven't seen this woman since Tom Ford left fashion...ever since that time, I feel like fashion has become so girly and so youthful, and I was getting so tired of it. Leave it to Nicholas to finally bring women back.
Givenchy: I have a fashion fetish for all things inspired by Catholicism. That really stuffy, monastic, reverent, stiff and over-worked fashion is so appealing to me. And I loved Tisci's interpretation. I especially loved those first several looks of all black with the dozens of gold chains.
Lanvin: Alber is probably one of the only designers working today who can make truly wearable clothes exciting and inspiring. And this collection is no exception. This is the true definition of chic and I love the darkness of the collection but I also love the simplicity and easiness of every piece.
Prada: I haven't like a Prada show truly is several seasons...I felt like Miuccia was trying so hard to be different and odd, it was so pretentious is made me sick. But I felt like she was finally returning to the Prada of years ago...ladylike, a bit granny and entirely quirky. I felt like this collection was the perfect marriage of her obsession with oddity of the most recent seasons and her older, more wearable aesthetic. Plus, the lace was gorgeous...so textural!
Chanel: Probably the chicest Chanel collection in a long time...everything looked so easy, relaxed and a little bit worn in, which I always love.
Rodarte: I love Rodarte so much. They're really the only exciting and inspiring show of New York, which is so sad, to me. I love that they didn't drastically change from SS 08 to FW 08, you really don't see many designers do that in fashion in more, where they carry a mood directly from one season to the next. I think that's very interesting. I loved the loose, watercolor knits and the eveningwear was fantastic, again, and the shoes were...in more ways than one...killer!
Honorable mentions: Viktor & Rolf, JPG, Versace, Ralph Lauren, Valentino, Louis Vuitton, Fendi, Karl Lagerfeld, Hermes, Christopher Kane, Bottega Veneta, Missoni, Jill Sander
STILL DIGESTING
John Galliano: I can't tell if I like this simply because Dior was hideous, or because I actually do really like it. It doesn't feel as lively as his FW 07 or SS 08 collections, or as cohesive either. Maybe after a few weeks I can come back and re-look at this collection and judge it more coherently.
Christian Lacroix: At first glance, I ADORED this collection, but looking back, I'm not sure it's as great as I thought it was cracked up to be. Granted, I loved lots of individual pieces, but I felt like there was something missing. I ADORED the hair and make up, though.
Miu Miu: After the painfully awful SS 08 show, I think I like this collection. I love the sporty influences, the swim caps, and I think the model's initials on their clothes is fun. I guess I put this collection under the "still digesting" category because I don't know if I love it yet, buy it has made me think.
Alexander McQueen: There are TONS of things I love in this collection, but I really can't get over the crinolines. Several pieces reminded me of what Christian from Project Runway designs...pseudo-McQueen...
YSL: I think Pilati is trying too hard to be cutting edge...I feel like his YSL of SS 05-SS 07 was exactly what YSL should be. This newer, more minimal look is not my favorite. Looking back on this collection, I can see some of his older design style peeping out (the defined waist, above the knee dresses, chic blazers and sheer fabrics, etc)...but the overall mood of the collection is just too cold, distant and mean.
FLAT-OUT HATED
Nina Ricci: What is Olivier doing?!? I hated SS 08 and I hate FW 08 even more. This grungy, pre-pubescent girly-girl aesthetic is not what Olivier should be working with...it just doesn't suit him. Granted, he's always portrayed a youthful girl in his collections, but this is just too messy, too sloppy and too cliche. Whatever happed to that refinement of Rochas and Nina Ricci FW 07?
Marc Jacobs: Just plain hideous fashion. Revolting fabrics and color palette, disgusting hats, horrific shoes...I'm running out of synonyms to describe how awful this collection was.
Dior: I just can't fathom why John would do this?!? Let's just say that Sydney Toledano and Bernard Arnault have just joined the ranks of George W. Bush and Dick Cheney as people I whole-heartedly LOATHE.