Phuel
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I feel the S/S 2011 showing was strong, particularly the Paris collections, nothing revolutionary, or even extraordinary, but the strongest collections were from designers who stuck by their signatures (in no particular order), just my top 5:
Haider Ackermann:
I always thought his past collections were heavily influenced by the ethereal Romeo Gigli woman-- I still think it is, but this time he's won me over with his effortlessly regal, and timeless dream of women. Those jackets and dresses look like they were just draped on the models, but the fact that these creations looked as awesome coming as they do going, is enough to give this man much respect.
Ann Demeulemeester:
Queen Ann never disappoints me with her womenswear. Delicate armory: This is what I imagine a modern Joan of Arc would wear. And those fencing and SWAT-inspired jackets, is what I imagine Helmut Lang would evolve to by now-- if he were still designing. Loved Helmut Lang, and love Queen Ann for her always modern and romantic vision of women.
Hermes
While his 80s contemporaries have either fallen by the way (Thierry Mugler), or became irrelevant (Vivienne Westwood), Gaultier showed one of the best and most achingly luxurious collections for S/S 2011 for Hermes. For all his idiosyncratic and irreverent signatures under his own line, there is the unmistakable mark of a refined and sharp tailor who truly understands couture, and Hermes and Gaultier were the perfect pairing: His designs for Hermes have always been restraint, precise, scrumptious, unapologetically luxurious, and proudly Parisienne. This final collection for the house hits the mark on all of the above. Here's desperately hoping he will bring what he gave to Hermes back to his own label.
Yves Saint Laurent
After what seems like a few seasons of obvious self-sabotage, Stefano Pilati reminds me why he is is the right man to helm YSL. Can you imagine Marc Jacobs at YSL? I weep at that travesty-- well, not weep, but it would be a travesty... Jacobs would just produce his usual heavy-handed "styling" that he lifts directly from the YSL archives. Pilati's version of the classic YSL woman is so right for the time; stripped off all the frilliness, ornamentation and adornments, he's distilled the classic YSL silhouette to it's sleekest form: Graphic, strong, and modern-- nothing retro here, even his take on the iconic YSL ruffles and khaki with navy is fresh.
Celine
Love the sharp, clean graphic lines. The silhouettes are unmistakably classic Phoebe-- or should I say, Chloe late 90s. But this time, she's eliminated all the frilly bits, and I think it looks supremely chic.
Haider Ackermann:
I always thought his past collections were heavily influenced by the ethereal Romeo Gigli woman-- I still think it is, but this time he's won me over with his effortlessly regal, and timeless dream of women. Those jackets and dresses look like they were just draped on the models, but the fact that these creations looked as awesome coming as they do going, is enough to give this man much respect.
Ann Demeulemeester:
Queen Ann never disappoints me with her womenswear. Delicate armory: This is what I imagine a modern Joan of Arc would wear. And those fencing and SWAT-inspired jackets, is what I imagine Helmut Lang would evolve to by now-- if he were still designing. Loved Helmut Lang, and love Queen Ann for her always modern and romantic vision of women.
Hermes
While his 80s contemporaries have either fallen by the way (Thierry Mugler), or became irrelevant (Vivienne Westwood), Gaultier showed one of the best and most achingly luxurious collections for S/S 2011 for Hermes. For all his idiosyncratic and irreverent signatures under his own line, there is the unmistakable mark of a refined and sharp tailor who truly understands couture, and Hermes and Gaultier were the perfect pairing: His designs for Hermes have always been restraint, precise, scrumptious, unapologetically luxurious, and proudly Parisienne. This final collection for the house hits the mark on all of the above. Here's desperately hoping he will bring what he gave to Hermes back to his own label.
Yves Saint Laurent
After what seems like a few seasons of obvious self-sabotage, Stefano Pilati reminds me why he is is the right man to helm YSL. Can you imagine Marc Jacobs at YSL? I weep at that travesty-- well, not weep, but it would be a travesty... Jacobs would just produce his usual heavy-handed "styling" that he lifts directly from the YSL archives. Pilati's version of the classic YSL woman is so right for the time; stripped off all the frilliness, ornamentation and adornments, he's distilled the classic YSL silhouette to it's sleekest form: Graphic, strong, and modern-- nothing retro here, even his take on the iconic YSL ruffles and khaki with navy is fresh.
Celine
Love the sharp, clean graphic lines. The silhouettes are unmistakably classic Phoebe-- or should I say, Chloe late 90s. But this time, she's eliminated all the frilly bits, and I think it looks supremely chic.
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