The dress in editorial, as worn by Gia...couture A/W 1979...
fashioncloset.com
"Saint Laurent's unforgettable evenings: at every level of dressing he gives a woman every option . . . and something more. Of all the unique, talked-about looks in a talked-about collection, the most memorable, right. His amazing Picasso-inspired evening—a beaded-and-embroidered inset—in pink-and-gold--"copies" exactly a Picasso double-faced/one-eyed profile. The dress, itself, black satin, shaped small and fitted to the waist, gathered and full-skirted over a black taffeta petticoat. And, with a short knee-grazing skirt, perfect black suede pumps. (The invisible evening accessory—his Opium fragrance!) A beautiful neckline, opposite. With a short black velvet dress, ruffles of stiff black net edged in tiny rhinestones, a rhinestone-and-multicolor necklace in between, and dazzling earrings. Symbol of something you always find at Saint Laurent: beyond the headlines, the news, the "fashion"—ways for a woman to look simply wonderful . . . at night . . . anytime!
Black crushed velvet and ostrich trimmed cocktail gown, Autumn-Winter 1969-70, labelled and numbered 23378, the sleeves and hem trimmed with bouffant black plumes.
Pleated black crêpe mini- cocktail dress, circa 1965-8, labelled and numbered 016708, of empire-line, simple pinafore shape with two pearl and diamanté floret buttons to the waist.
Gold and silver lamé brocatelle evening tunic and wide trousers, Autumn-Winter 1969-70, labelled and numbered 22623, the neckline with key-hole opening, the luxurious fabric woven with repeats of large water lilies and leaves, edged in large pastes and gold sequins, zip fastened to the back, the wide pants with slashed side openings similarly trimmed, lined in cream silk.
Rive Gauche safari suits, circa 1968, one black, the other khaki, both with front lacing tunics with patch pockets, matching trousers.
Cream wool mini dress, circa 1964, labelled and numbered 012369, with converging V-shaped bands to form the neckline.
A good group of Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche garments, 1970s, all labelled, comprising: black satin `Le Smoking' ensemble with single breasted jacket, wide trousers with turn-ups, matching scarf; a mustard yellow cashmere jacket with angular lapels; a black coat edged in cream cord; and an African print maxi dress with buttoned front.
Rive Gauche red wool maxi cape, circa 1976, and a black Russian peasant-style blouse edged in green petersham braid, cape labelled size 34.
An Yves Saint Laurent multi-coloured ensemble, Spring-Summer 1969, the skirt labelled and numbered 21565, the blouse of floral chiffon with button fastening above a patchwork skirt of printed and brocaded silks with shocking pink ribbon tie belt, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 72cm, 28in, (3) The Duchess of Windsor owned an identical ensemble which was exhibited as part of the Yves Saint Laurent Retrospective exhibition, Gallery of New South Wales, Australia, cf the catalogue p38 for a contemporary fashion photograph of the ensemble and original sketch. See also plate 10 of Tom Tierney's YSL paper dolls magazine; cf `The Windsor Story', Bryan & Murphy, 1979, p.480 for a photograph of the Duchess of Windsor with Charles Aznavour, 1969, where she is wearing an identical ensemble.