Alexander McQueen F/W 2022.23 New York

[vogue28]

 

[Salvatore]

This collection is being shown in the appropriate city. It’s so flat and without any emotion. It’s cut and made well in some places, but I just see « garments » and nothing else.

 

[blackcherrified]

It’s so… undesirable I don’t even know how to defend this even though I love the brand and their custom red carpet pieces for the duchess and others

… and this is just collection of silhouettes from the past 3 or 4 seasons with minor alterations and colour change for the worse

 

[Deleted member 167090]

Given the fact that the spirit of McQueen has been lost for a long time, I think this is a decent but not groundbreaking collection that could work better for Dior or Chanel at this moment if she combined their house codes.

 

[Deleted member 1957]

I like the suits and the more masculine inspired pieces.

 

[Norden]

I think its lovely that they allow her to still be there.
The collection is very standard Sarah Burton, which means that the clothes are impeccably made and tailored. But really, the positives end there. She fails to understand several things, which are an ongoing crisis at McQueen.
- These clothes do not translate to retail at all, I don't know anyone who would walk around in these items.
- The pieces lack a concept, context or story, its bizarrely banal. its quite simply a parade of clothes. Without showmanship McQueen has no reason to exist.
- Her styling choices are very much like Dior, but worse. The butch flat shoes with awful lime green dress, the hideous no make up look reeks of an old person trying to play cool with a tik tok crowd. abysmal.
- The yellows and greens really really upset me, they have no meaning here, it doesn't do anything. it just feels so unmcqeen.

honestly, close this brand, its painful. just like helmut lang, without its founders or someone who understands the spirit of it, its lost.

 

[THD96]

The show is boring, this collection can be easily presented in London and it still makes no difference. When you gonna travel across the Atlantic, put on an entertaining show.

It's not bad but it doesn't evoke any kind of emotions from me. It is pretty, but it is just there and bland.

I don't know if the repeating silhouettes are coming from Sarah being on autopilot or Kering ordering her to do that so they can make McQueen become another Billion dollars brand in the group. Maybe both.

This is a typical Sarah Burton collection. Sharp tailoring, deconstruct biker jackets, and bustier evening gowns with silver embellishments. Her go-to formula.

I only like the No. 13 inspired prints suits, they are the stars of this collection. Overall the collection is tightly edited, minus the two neon suits that look so out of place. Take those two out and the collection can be stronger.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

For the past couple of years I've been absolutely hating her fabric choices, and the sentiment is felt here. There's no richness in the textiles at all, they all look like plastic (and sit strangely like it too because of the construction).

They're trying so hard to be "edgy" and "dark" by doing the most typical of tropes and it still visually fails. Up until F/W 2018, there was still a little something here and there and the fabrics were fantastic. But in that collection were those dreaded duchess satin meets suiting combos and the collections have derailed further ever since... Even worse, she's been so inconsistent with so many of her collections I don't even know who the McQueen customer is anymore. McQueen himself adapted really well and you knew the customer or the person because it had that essence, but now I have no idea.

Criminal of her to also continue pulling from the archives to only give us these iterations. Completely half baked, repetitive nonsense. If she wants gritty and roughly tumbled whilst still being in her wheelhouse, she should revisit her S/S 2014 collection. One of the few I like from her because it was so unexpected, especially after that tacky F/W 2013 show.

 

[perhydrol]

I feel so disappointed by this show! It's easily my biggest disappointment of this season. The first look was such a strong and promising proposition. It felt just perfect with The Cure playing in the background and with a wonderful model. That vibe really should have been continued through the show as it radiated power and at the same time, it was very on-trend. But then, the typical aesthetic of Burton came back and after the fourth look, I lost any interest. It's a shame they decided to reference the overplayed No. 13 instead of Eshu, which would make so much sense in the season of an earthy, raw, almost primal aesthetic of irregularly cut leathers and fur trending. Not to mention that the mycelium motif felt completely out of place, and it was already referenced by Stella McCartney in a much more effective way. I don't know, this brand feels so lost at the moment.

 

[WAVES]

all those frumpy dresses are an eyesore. how did she look at that and thought ‘wow they’re amazing’. HOW???
we still have that ‘worst dress thread’ don’t we? feel free my fellow TFS’ers…

the suits are interesting (really nothing new) but the printed ones are horrible (due to that sort of graffiti ink); the lace and metallic pieces in the last part are by far the most interesting designs of it all and I just wish she had focused and worked around that.

 

[loveisnotlost]

This collection is emblematic of the general lack of originality in fashion. Many looks could be seamlessly inserted into other collections we've seen this season - Hearst's Chloe, Blazy's Bottega. MCQUEEN WHO ART THOU?

 

[Ruito]

Disappointing!

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[brandon J pierre]

These lime green suits could also be Versace or any other brand!

Hey ! Remember when Mcqueen showed in NYC during a major hurricane , now that was a show !

 

[Lola701]

The more I see her offering, the more I actually want her at Dior. I feel like her sensibility is more Dior than McQueen and I feel like it would be a more interesting heritage for her to dive into than McQueen.

I know they are betting everything on Kim Jones now but tbh, Burton for Dior (menswear and womenswear) could work.


This collection is as uninteresting as the previous ones. Of course there’s always a strong tailoring but even that is boring.

 

[Avonlea]

It's 2022 and Lara still can't walk.

 

[dior_couture1245]

Sarah Burton is so tragic. New York is the right place to show this collection...this is on the same level as Prabal Gurung. And that shade of red she always uses is so cheap looking and SO NYFW.

And I say it every time, but I absolutely hate how shallow her idea of McQueen is...HARD AND SOFT! Which in her brain means...a poofy ball gown = femininity + leather moto jacket = masculinity!

 

[Phuel]

^^^ The entire fashion industry, from designer product to publication is tragic LOL

Sarah’s McQueen is hardly as abysmal and soulless as so many other once great labels that are only churning out overpriced basic merch in these dire fashion days.

Holding to the great confrontational, barbaric-beauty of McQueen the visionary is only going to inflame the ache and loss of what was once the magnificence of blood, sweat and tears personified as fashion. It’s never coming back to this brand— and such soaring highs are unlikely to be experienced again in our lifetime (for those of us in our 30s-40s, I mean). Sounds ridiculously dramatic— even rightfully soap opera(ish) as another member would dismiss similar criticisms as LOL But I still adore fashion; and within our silly, insignificant rarified conclave— while a very real and tragic war rages on at the moment, this is what keeps us sane so I get your frustration. Just that I still see so much more relevance and even charm with Sarah’s designs than any other brand. Not giving a crap about the need to make some fashion statement with what I wear affords a certain level of pragmatism to look beyond the unattainable offering of McQueen’s brilliance and to just accept Sarah’s sharp tailoring sensibilities. And she’s been consistent with her suitings for a while now. That’s more than good enough when her suitings actually look great and not some trolling of a caricature that’s become the tiresome standard of so many brands now. Frankly, all her shows now blend into the next, and this sort of offering would benefit so much from being presented on mannequins, or just hangers. I always feel that tinge of excitement and spark when I see her men’s suit in-hand. Can’t say much about the other merch— but an impeccable suit/coat with slight but sharp sartorial touches is what is relevant, or irreverent to me. Don’t care about impressing anyone, or trying to desperately to make some fashON statement.

(I doubt any of the gowns sell and are just pushed for branding purpose— cuz— skinhead riot grrrrrrrl in silk taffeta prom dress and punky flat boots is probably so edgy to the 14yo suburban girls going through their whoever-is-the 2022-version of-Avril Lavigne phase . …Tho, that rhinestone/crystal-embellished dress on Kaia is slightly reminiscent of the glorious aesthetic of McQueen the man’s “The Girl Who Lived In The Tree” ode to Gigli. … And is that Guinevere??? Anyway, maybe overly cynical to you guys, but I like it.)

 

[jeanclaude]

Why is a mountain of manure in the background?? After seeing the clothes, I choose the manure here...