Alexander McQueen F/W 2024.25 Paris

[Olaffo]

She is so cheap with her review, my God...But here we go: "McGirr has only been with the brand a short time, and he hasn’t yet looked in the archive." - his job is to look and reinterpret McQueen's legacy since day one and that's why he has unlimited budget, people to work with and his own, supposedly, experienced creative background. "Consider the response from the French elite to John Galliano’s first collections for Dior, or Martin Margiela’s for Hermès, or Demna’s at Balenciaga." - well if the memory and Google serves well neither of the shows mentioned above were horror of that magnitude nor the critique so illiterate. And my favourite one: "many designers take a number of years to find the voice they actually want to use": Cathy dear, Kering needs money right here and right now, they don't have "number of years" so hired people can find their voice (whatever that means remains an open question).

Commercial department will be working day and night to destile this collection into selable pieces but my God, at what cost?

 

[jeanclaude]

Cathy Horyn walking for McQueen next season in 3,2,1...

 

[RaisinBoy]

Marie Chaix I think.

Thanks… she’s not strong enough to reign in the inexperienced young designer :-(

 

[GivenchyHomme]

The only good reviewer now is Vanessa Friedman. She is objective in her critiques and isn’t afraid to point out what’s truly good or bad.

 

[jeanclaude]

Ahah true, but, where do you find future creative directors? In the studios, for sure! Although considering the ruthlessness of the industry there’s less and less talents that aspire to the CD position and would rather stay in the background.
Also once you estabilish yourself leading a studio you’re too old for the crowd to get a CD position. Over 45 you’re not viable for a CD position anymore according to head hunters.

That is the problem. They should look outside the studio too.

 

[jeanclaude]

Ahah true, but, where do you find future creative directors? In the studios, for sure! Although considering the ruthlessness of the industry there’s less and less talents that aspire to the CD position and would rather stay in the background.
Also once you estabilish yourself leading a studio you’re too old for the crowd to get a CD position. Over 45 you’re not viable for a CD position anymore according to head hunters.

Sorry, I forgot to comment this in my previous post...but head hunters thinking someone over 45 y.o. cannot have the talent nor the creativity for being a CD (just because of age) is such a HUGE mistake.

As long as they are looking only for young people from inside their studios, they are going to be stuck in the same situation; and wondering what´s wrong...

 

[lookatme]

I will always love Cathy’s reviews far and above everyone else’s.

I love that she likes what she likes and what she doesn’t like, she can usually sum up in one biting, cutting sentence. She has her favorites and don’t we all, too?

I like that she’ll give a great review to a small brand like Rachel Comey, and then give a terrible review for a big brand like Chanel. What I also like is that even if she doesn’t like a collection, she’ll still have a positive or constructive comment to give, too.

For me, what I appreciate and love most about Cathy is not necessarily her REVIEWS as much as it is her PERSPECTIVE. I’m not bothered if she likes a collection I hate, or hates a collection I love - her voice and writing is very enjoyable to me to read.

 

[penny609]

Still have the same question over and over again, running through my head... What's the point in having McQueen without McQueen (and it's not an isolated case, actually). Got some possible and really possibly possible answers coming but it still remains useless and vain to my eyes.

 

[tourbillions]

Still have the same question over and over again, running through my head... What's the point in having McQueen without McQueen (and it's not an isolated case, actually). Got some possible and really possibly possible answers coming but it still remains useless and vain to my eyes.

from a business point of view this argument just doesnt work. since the brand name is owned by someone else now. Artistically ofcourse it doesn't make sense so do the many brands without their original founders.

They just need to find a CD who will both respect the codes of the house and at the same time modernize it for today's market.

 

[penny609]

from a business point of view this argument just doesnt work. since the brand name is owned by someone else now. Artistically ofcourse it doesn't make sense so do the many brands without their original founders.

They just need to find a CD who will both respect the codes of the house and at the same time modernize it for today's market.

Yes, when I wrote that I've got possible answers I meant it as business-wise things are pretty obvious.

And couldn't disagree with your last sentence... It's just that these rare birds are as hard to find as sun in wintertime.

 

[Mr-Dale]

Even the guys at SHOWStudio are ripping it to absolute shreds.

 

[Caffeine]

She is so cheap with her review, my God...But here we go: "McGirr has only been with the brand a short time, and he hasn’t yet looked in the archive." - his job is to look and reinterpret McQueen's legacy since day one and that's why he has unlimited budget, people to work with and his own, supposedly, experienced creative background. "Consider the response from the French elite to John Galliano’s first collections for Dior, or Martin Margiela’s for Hermès, or Demna’s at Balenciaga." - well if the memory and Google serves well neither of the shows mentioned above were horror of that magnitude nor the critique so illiterate. And my favourite one: "many designers take a number of years to find the voice they actually want to use": Cathy dear, Kering needs money right here and right now, they don't have "number of years" so hired people can find their voice (whatever that means remains an open question).

Commercial department will be working day and night to destile this collection into selable pieces but my God, at what cost?

Good lord...I don't even work in fashion and I'm well aware of the McQueen archive. What a sell out.

 

[Nimsay]

IDK usually when i find myself on the same side as certain people or institutions I reasess my stance. Maybe I like this. The silhouettes are emblazoned in my mind which is very McQ.

 

[donyan]

The main problem is that there’s too much -too many discordant messages, ideas and details. I love those broken glass pieces, had he just used those and taken the idea of cars and car crashes farther it would have maybe made for a much better, more coherent collection, and those final dresses might’ve actually made sense. I like the leather coat + wide-brimmed hat look too, maybe this could have been a starting point? As it is now the collection just seems an incoherent mess of ideas.

 

[Drusilla_]

Good lord...I don't even work in fashion and I'm well aware of the McQueen archive. What a sell out.

same?! They even used to put select pieces from the archive on display in their London store, and me, a peasant with no fashion background whatsoever, went to see it.
I hope he's taking the piss with that statement because in his own words, he claims to have honed in on specific collections but dude needs to shape up.

 

[Demna]

How miserable.

 

[gallianostan]

i'm surprised you guys ever took cathy horyn as a serious journalist. you'd think she masturbates to pictures of demna every night just by the way she's kissed his *** at every turn for the last god-knows-how-many years.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

She is so cheap with her review, my God...But here we go: "McGirr has only been with the brand a short time, and he hasn’t yet looked in the archive." - his job is to look and reinterpret McQueen's legacy since day one and that's why he has unlimited budget, people to work with and his own, supposedly, experienced creative background. "Consider the response from the French elite to John Galliano’s first collections for Dior, or Martin Margiela’s for Hermès, or Demna’s at Balenciaga." - well if the memory and Google serves well neither of the shows mentioned above were horror of that magnitude nor the critique so illiterate. And my favourite one: "many designers take a number of years to find the voice they actually want to use": Cathy dear, Kering needs money right here and right now, they don't have "number of years" so hired people can find their voice (whatever that means remains an open question).

Commercial department will be working day and night to destile this collection into selable pieces but my God, at what cost?

This take of hers is pretty bull. He's had nearly 6 months to get things going and finalised and for all we know, he could have been behind the scenes at McQueen for a short while prior to Burton leaving/him coming in. Meanwhile, Adrian Appiolaza had about a month to get to grips with Moschino, for a collection he didn't really design and could only help curate/shift to have his own perspective injected into it. And that collection wasn't anywhere near as discombobulated as the McQueen collection.

So strange that experience, voice and capabilities are being reasoned when it's so evidently poor. Like they want us to forget this guy is 35 years old with what appears to be a decent amount of work experience. Things can be shaky when you're coming into a new house but my god this is on another level.

Oh and to say he hasn't looked into the archive isn't exactly correct either. He has, he just chose to look at images of it.

 

[gallianostan]

Consider the response from the French elite to John Galliano’s first collections for Dior, or Martin Margiela’s for Hermès, or Demna’s at Balenciaga." - well if the memory and Google serves well neither of the shows mentioned above were horror of that magnitude nor the critique so illiterate.

the reception for john's first collection for dior was rapturous. everyone was obsessed. what the f*ck is she on about?

 

[GivenchyHomme]

I find the reaction on social media to be quite interesting, especially considering that they are obviously the prime demographic this collection is aiming for. Typically people leave positive comments for even the worst of collections. However, it seems that this collection is universally hated by nearly everybody. People on the internet are not as dumb as the marketing teams seem to believe. You would think that Kering would have taken a lesson from the whole Matthew Williams X Givenchy disaster, instead they are going down that exact same route. These types of stunt appointments and shows will sink a brand, and quickly.