Alexander McQueen F/W 2024.25 Paris

I actually like some of it. The tailoring and shirting are quite good. Overall, it strikes me as more modern than Sarah Burton's work, which sometimes felt too classically proportioned for my taste. Individually, some of the pieces would work very well with clothes from other labels (luxury and high street). People sometimes forget that in the early days (the late 90s), McQueen made surprisingly "normal" separates for stores.

On the other hand, the bags are not good, and the prices for everything are a bit (I think about 20%) too high.
 
McQueen made surprisingly "normal" separates for stores.

they werent this trashy and they didnt look like department store clothes. he obviously was stirring away from that in his later collections and focused more on evening wear and tailored pieces which is probably where he wanted to position his brand.

Everything looks so cheap now, even if the pricing is o.k. but the finish of the items are not finishing. I hate his vision and references to the old mcqueen collections. Mcqueens older works even if theyre normal wanted me to zoom in and check out the details. These are just clothes that are later cut or destroyed to make it seem "mcqueen".
 
they werent this trashy and they didnt look like department store clothes. he obviously was stirring away from that in his later collections and focused more on evening wear and tailored pieces which is probably where he wanted to position his brand.

Everything looks so cheap now, even if the pricing is o.k. but the finish of the items are not finishing. I hate his vision and references to the old mcqueen collections. Mcqueens older works even if theyre normal wanted me to zoom in and check out the details. These are just clothes that are later cut or destroyed to make it seem "mcqueen".


The finishing on the distressed and tattered pieces is awful and “too finished”. Which makes them look extremely cheap and done by machine quickly and for a contemporary level brand.

However there are things that are fine but the overall cillwction leaves much to be desired. There is no narrative or story of who the McQueen man or woman is. There’s a certain level of luxury missing

They need to fix the styling and casting for the website. Many times I felt like I was on the SSENSE website.
 
The collection is up on the online shop now. A sales associate at the Rodeo Drive boutique told me that the retail items were actually going to be more refined from the mess that went down the runway, but it looks like, aluminum dresses aside, Kering is actually planning on selling what was shown in March.

It’s worse than the show, if only because we can see the shoes.


These make me long for the simple elegance of the Loewe nail polish bottle heels.


Hated Sarah Burton’s combat boots? I’d take those any day over McGirr’s Herman Munster version.


The one that caught me most off guard is this elongated tassel loafer. It’s just impractical and ridiculous, and a small voice in my head says that it may actually be stupid enough to catch on.



These pieces, which I don’t recall from the March show, are kind of pissing me off. They make me think… Highland Rip-off. It’s like a bad fast fashion version of Highland r*pe. (“Speyside Molestation!”)


At least those looks rip off McQueen. Most of his men’s looks are obviously stealing from Hedi Slimane or Riccardo Tisci.

There’s so much more: The cable-knit ensemble that looks like it belongs on SHEIN. The bathmat dress with a man’s butt. The whole mini-collection of butt items. (McGirr is showing his J.W. Anderson bona fides with that one.) While only one look on the runway had leopard print, it’s all over the collection – men’s and women’s. So is the shattered glass print of which McGirr seems so proud. Any actual nods to Lee McQueen codes seem thrown in like a parsley garnish on a plate: Some Eshu shoulders here! A little fur from It’s a Jungle Out There! Here’s a big ol’ peplum! Nothing is coherent.

If they’re hoping for a home run with bags, I don’t think the boring new offerings they’ve got will do it. I don’t see any Knuckle Bags, either. I hope they haven’t thrown the baby out with the bathwater.

The sales associates in Beverly Hills have been going hard for this new collection, talking up how much they love it and saying how “Seán is more McQueen than Sarah was.” They were crowing about how many pre-orders they were getting for looks after the March show, too. Showing the site to friends today, the uniform reaction has been negative. I really want to know how this sells.

Junya Watanabe Trench? Charles Jeffrey Knits?
and Thankyou for cleaning the city floor with those leather fringe, you can't even wear them to your local average London pub with those sticky floors
 
I’m quite puzzled…
Don’t get me wrong, I don’t mind trying to recapture the spirit of early days McQueen but the brand has elevated so much in terms of perception and clientele that I wonder if this isn’t really the kiss of death.

For what is worth, McQueen, even before Lee’s death had that aspirational nature and a lot of people I know who buys the clothes are people with means and a rather comfortable lifestyle.
Ok, under Lee they sold a lot of Skull scarves and under Burton, the sneakers were a real success.

But they are really going to separate themselves from the historic clientele, potentially change the perception of the brand….Those prices don’t match the type of people those pieces seems to be aimed for!

It doesn’t scream quality!
I really hope that their PR are sending looks to whoever is big and can wear it. And I really hope that the resort is better!

The pieces are quite unappealing…
 
just imagine a brand who has been consistently dressing royals... coming up with these. From the top clients to whoever these are for. or from top female lawyers to gen z wannabies. I dont understand what's the play here or where they want mcqueen positioned.
 
Im all for giving designers time to find their footing but if he can’t get it together for resort, they should quickly axe him.

was Sarah Burton fired or did she voluntarily leave? If they fired her or she left because if disagreements, she has to be cackling to herself right now
 
I like some of these pieces, but would not know when or how to wear them. And the prices is insane. I normally buy a few designer items every season and then some more in the sales but it's become really difficult to find something I would really like to wear on an every day basis, and when I do I mostly can't afford it. In fact I'm being slowly priced out of the market. Maybe it's a good thing.
 
Just passed by the store and saw the window. Some pieces are actually nice knitwear and denim.
The opening look, plastic bag looking dress looks super cheap and poor.
Bags with a metal bar hardware seems to be what they want to propose (good luck)
Marketingwise will need a lot of influence to make this happen curious to see which kind of placement is in plan.
 
Just passed by the store and saw the window. Some pieces are actually nice knitwear and denim.
The opening look, plastic bag looking dress looks super cheap and poor.
Bags with a metal bar hardware seems to be what they want to propose (good luck)
Marketingwise will need a lot of influence to make this happen curious to see which kind of placement is in plan.
The way they styled that garbage bag dress in the opening look with the hands in the drape is so wanky. It's like 'hey, did you know you can put your hands in here?'
Large-808164QLADT1000_D.jpg

source: alexandermcqueen.com
 
I don't understand what's going on why on Earth do you need to go back into McQueen's pass in this way there's no reason for it we already know what Alexander McQueen is we have tons of video on it anybody who's into fashion have research it a thousand times you know there's no reason to go backwards they should be moving forward with new ideas. A contemporary McQueen without Alexander McQueen and without Sarah should be a brand of luxury clothing and splatters of fresh ideas. There's no reason to go back on his earliest shows because what's the point.? That early McQueen day woman is now walking throughout the streets of every major city and every minor City what can they create that's truly new for her or at least chic? This brand in this condition is going to go into bankruptcy and obscurity.
 
was Sarah Burton fired or did she voluntarily leave? If they fired her or she left because if disagreements, she has to be cackling to herself right now
My understanding (please correct me if I'm wrong) was that Kering let her go because she was unable to bring McQueen over the €1 billion threshold in sales; the company had stalled at around the €750 million mark under her.
 
I don't understand what's going on why on Earth do you need to go back into McQueen's pass in this way there's no reason for it we already know what Alexander McQueen is we have tons of video on it anybody who's into fashion have research it a thousand times you know there's no reason to go backwards they should be moving forward with new ideas. A contemporary McQueen without Alexander McQueen and without Sarah should be a brand of luxury clothing and splatters of fresh ideas. There's no reason to go back on his earliest shows because what's the point.?
Had there been no references to codes from Lee McQueen's designs, people would have been up in arms for just the opposite reason – disrespecting the house, its heritage, and, most importantly, its founder. It's basically what goes on with every new Balenciaga collection.

My issue is that McGirr seems to sprinkle in McQueenisms like garnishes. They're like cherries and olives in a cocktail: fun but entirely optional. The codes he really cares about – leopard print, the broken glass print, the lumpy boobs, the clodhopper shoes – have no basis in the house's nearly three decades of history. It's as if he said, "Oh, just throw in some skulls, tartan, and peaky shoulders," after he was done and reminded this was supposed to be a collection for Alexander McQueen. The references aren't coherent.

I've also been wondering about this: McQueen under Sarah Burton was a house that had moved seriously toward tailoring for a clientele that wanted an edgy-but-smart look. Now, it seems to have suddenly spun on its heel to appeal the lounge lizard, club kid demographic that Celine targets. Is Kering repositioning McQueen to go after Hedi Slimane instead of Saint Laurent?
 
The way they styled that garbage bag dress in the opening look with the hands in the drape is so wanky. It's like 'hey, did you know you can put your hands in here?'
Large-808164QLADT1000_D.jpg

source: alexandermcqueen.com
It looks a lot better here than it did in the show.
 

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