Alexander McQueen S/S 11 Paris

[coldlunch]

I think Sarah should have worn something more dramatic than a white blouse and jeans during her exit down the runway

 

[teacakes]

 

[MyNameIs]

I like it. Like it a lot actually.

My only semi-issue is that most of the pieces look like they came from the last 10 or so McQueen collections. Going through the collection it was like, these two looks could be from SS08, these couple looks probably came from FW06, etc. I don't know if it makes sense or if that's necessarily a bad thing, but that's how it made me feel.

Overall though, I'd say it's definitely a success for her.

 

[ad041715]

Without getting to analytical about it, this is a nice collection. A bit pre-mature to judge Sarah as this collection is, to me, entirely based on the archive!

I agree with your entire statement, especially that this collection is based on the archives. It's a wonderful collection, but I was expecting something new, not something recycled. Of course we'll have to wait till next season to really decide if she's the right creative director.

 

[Phuel]

This is a supreme collection.

Such an ethereal tribute to McQueen the man. I think it was a wise choice to dispense with the theatrics and dramatics and just concentrate on the presentation as a collection of killer tailoring and impeccable cuts.

There may not be a clear, or official concept for the collection, but I don't care. Although the overall look reminds me of a Botticelli painting, with a gentle and radiant beauty about the girls.

The collection definitely has a lightness, a weightlessness about it, as Sarah has described-- like birds (of paradise, Phoenix) in flight. On practical terms, it's tight, precise, a fitting tribute and affirmation that Sarah is the only choice to carry on the McQueen label.

(The only outfit I don't like and seems heavy-handed is the black "vines" dress.)

Good going Sarah, the genius himself would be proud.

 

[juanpyx]

this was like.. taking the best 3 looks from the last.. 10 Lee collections.... and re-make them...

 

[CharlottefromCA]

let me add to everyone else who think she did an AMAZING job for her first RTW collection. Just Great!

I don't think its fair to think she would totally create her own look this 1st season... that would draw even more ire from people following Alexander McQueen's work. She did an amazing job filling the impossible shoes of one of the most talented designer's this generation.. it'll be interesting what she does the next few seasons for sure as she (hopefully) establishes her own aesthetic.

 

[simple_elegance]

Delicious fantasy...I'm a sucker for this kind of thing.

 

[TianCouture]

i wish the models walked a little slower and more dramatically...

 

[shopping247]

a really beautiful collection. bravo sarah!

 

[purplethistle]

I think that this was a great tribute to McQueen, which is understandable at this first collection would have critics thinking if she could keep the McQueen essence. I will certainly look more closely at feature collections to see what new things she does herself for this brand.

 

[saeda]

I really love all of the pieces, she can certainly put together a beautiful collection.

My only qualms with this are it does feel too much like it was pulled from the archives, and it feels more autumn than any other season.

 

[Tentacl Ventricl]

My only semi-issue is that most of the pieces look like they came from the last 10 or so McQueen collections. Going through the collection it was like, these two looks could be from SS08, these couple looks probably came from FW06, etc. I don't know if it makes sense or if that's necessarily a bad thing, but that's how it made me feel.

Yes but it's only right and proper that Sarah pay homage to the recent history of the house. She has done so excellently.

And yes there is a good measure of structural continuity here (which Francois would have been pleased about I'm sure) because - as told to me by one of the army of McQueen interns - while she was there a year or so ago - you'd seldom see Lee in the studio. Sarah was pretty much running the day to day activities anyhow. Thinking of it now the intern in question was working on the prints so maybe, as someone else said, Sarah had most input in the print section hence why that intern seldom saw Lee.

No doubt even toward the end Lee kept control of the big stuff, the vision etc, it wasn't ever wholly the Sarah show I don't think but of course in any organisation there's delegation, learning, an osmosis of the aesthetic and the practices.

So far so good.

And compare and contrast, so far, how excellently the succession is being managed by Francois's team compared to the utter balls up Renzo made of Margiela.

 

[cuppycakes]

its very mcqueen, cant wait to see where she takes the line

 

[LeRouquin]

I discovered after looking over this collection over and over again it's actually quite cohesive. Part of it is coming up with inspirations, and as far as I can tell, there are quite a few references to mythology, and in particular Greek mythology, as well as an emphasis on the seasons. Perhaps to show that as the seasons keep on and continue, so will McQueen's legacy.

Sarah did a beautiful job, and I feel it is highly appropriate that she basically recreated things out of the McQueen archives. For a first collection of a man recently deceased, it'd be more than just a bit insensitive to go off onto her own thing, don't you think? Absolutely beautiful pieces and the incredible craftsmanship of McQueen is still there. Stunning collection.

 

[masquerade]

To be her first collection it's good. It's not great, it's obviously not Lee, but it's also not disrespectful of him. It's good. Just that.

I agree. It definitely has the McQueen aesthetic, but it is very apparent to me that it isn't his. While I would never call McQueen austere or minimal, this is overdone even for him. The elements are right, but its a little much. I still like it, it doesn't disrespect his legacy or change the brands identity, it just is apparent that the man is not present.

 

[Nicolasa]

Just beautiful reinterpretations from past seasons... I'm confident in Sarah but I can't help feeling a painfull nostalgic .

 

[EasyCool]

It feel's like it's trying to be like the genius, Mr. Alexander McQueen, but she did do a good job at designing off of some of his previous designs. I just want to see something amazing, something he would be proud and impressed with next time. But our wounds are still sore, so I see why they went this way.

 

[j'adore_couture]

A more feminine touch to the label we know and love! Very excited about the way it turned out

 

[Pastry]

I don't post on TFS regularly anymore...
Because after a few years of observing the phenomenon of technology, particularly the internet, and how it has contributed to fashion, to clothes..it's not altogether positive. And I chose to remain an observer rather that an active participant.

But I would just like to exclaim that this is beautiful!
In my humble opion, Sarah Burton did a magnificent job for her first collection for Alexander McQueen. Let the ready-to-wear crowd do what they do, be it wrong or right. Only time will tell.

But to create such a visual feast, that is, at once, humble and intelligent and vibrant and strong, is an accomplishment. It doesn't pretend to be anything other than a collective of gorgeous traditional craft. It is sort of removed from "everything else". I would like to underline that this is imporant work. Important for creativity and intelligence, joy, and all our other emotions.

I'm only guesstimating, but these clothes, these images seem so honest. Some may be familiar with this feeling...when you hand yourself over to a state of work that is so free, the craft becomes a sort of religious experience.

Overall, of course, these are just clothes. And for all I know, next season will be about techno, or bananas, or what have you. But I hope that Sarah Burton sticks to a vision of craft and lightness as she mentioned.