Alexander McQueen S/S 11 Paris

[Squizree]

I think this collection makes Sarah Burton the best fashion successor in fashion history. But would it be unfair and heartless to say that it looks too McQueen?
Still, it's nothing short of a creative wonder. The leaf dress is

**edit: model talk**

 

[dansity]

I definately feel the presence of McQueen in sarah's design. Overall it was a stunning collection. Loved the prints and the multiple belts cinching the waist. Oh and the dress that had black leafs design was breath taking!

 

[drunkenchic]

I agree for the most part that the collection looks like a tribute, if you will, to McQueen. I don't really have a problem with that though. It still managed to be one of the better shows of ss2011 so I think Sarah has done a good job

the Monarch butterfly dress is STUNNING. I can't wait to see this collection in print

 

[AgrenateD]

You missed my third phrase. That a woman now designs for this brand and not Lee who is a man and the original designer. Therefore, she should know what real women need in real life. A good example of a designer is Phoebe Philo. So it scares me that it's a new designer (avid customers might have more of a connection with Lee), and it's a woman who does costume drama.
More real clothes=more customers=more chances for McQueen to continue.

please let's not compare or even dare liken Sarah Burton to Phoebe Philo. i admire the latter as well but they belong
to different worlds when it comes to aesthetic, and why exactly do we have to typecast Sarah into the typical female
designer who 'knows what women wants'? she's produced such an astounding collection this season and has been able
to continue Lee's vision through and through without compromising any aspect of the brand. McQueen already has a
solid identity and now that we've seen what this woman can do let's all just appreciate the beauty that she has created.
in due time i do think we can anticipate Sarah shifting the brand to a more commercial direction but as of now a more
focused debut collection that harks to the original designer's creations will best appease everyone; after all that was
what everybody was worried about originally, if the Gucci Group rightfully chose Sarah as Lee's succesor. and this
collection shows that they really made an excellent move.

 

[neonsprinkles]

McQueen was amazing at intertwining harsh silhouettes and dramatic themes, you can definitely see the Burton touch (softening his silhouettes). The color pallet is kinda all over the place and someone mentioned the transition between different looks was kind of felt thrown in there without a cohesive look to ease the transition.

Pretty good collection, would love to see Burton approach some unexpected themes in the future (in the sense that Lee referenced Hitchcock films, Natural Selection, Atlantis, etc in previous collections apart from his iconic dark-romantic themes)

 

[helmut.newton]

This collection is beautiful and the workmanship is absolutely nearing the haute couture level, but somehow, I am finding it hard to connect with this collection. Aesthetically and visually it seems very rich but intellectually I'm not sure it means anything.

For me, this is almost as if she has exclusively taken the aesthetic side of McQueens archives and reinterpreted them. Whilst there is nothing wrong with this, McQueen was equally concerned with the context of his design as much as he was wit h the aesthetics.

This is not a strong collection for me. It is lacking in direction a little bit, in the way McQueen himself would have generally manifested it. Sarah is obviously a talented designer, and is more than capable of making beautiful and very McQueen clothing. What she needs to do now is figure out a direction to go in and how to make the houses codes relevant and not the domain of popular culture (Lady Gaga, etc).

 

[coldlunch]

please let's not compare or even dare liken Sarah Burton to Phoebe Philo. i admire the latter as well but they belong
to different worlds when it comes to aesthetic, and why exactly do we have to typecast Sarah into the typical female
designer who 'knows what women wants'? she's produced such an astounding collection this season and has been able
to continue Lee's vision through and through without compromising any aspect of the brand. McQueen already has a
solid identity and now that we've seen what this woman can do let's all just appreciate the beauty that she has created.
in due time i do think we can anticipate Sarah shifting the brand to a more commercial direction but as of now a more
focused debut collection that harks to the original designer's creations will best appease everyone; after all that was
what everybody was worried about originally, if the Gucci Group rightfully chose Sarah as Lee's succesor. and this
collection shows that they really made an excellent move.

I am not comparing Pheobe to Sara. What I said is I would love to see how Pheobe would interpret this brand.

I am not typecasting Sara to a typical female designer. I'm simply saying that I'm scared that it's a woman designer who does costume drama.

Bottom line is, in order to be relevant in this business, you have to please Gucci with good sales. And at this point in time, real woman spend money on real clothes.

 

[mistress_f]

please let's not compare or even dare liken Sarah Burton to Phoebe Philo. i admire the latter as well but they belongto different worlds when it comes to aesthetic, and why exactly do we have to typecast Sarah into the typical female designer who 'knows what women wants'? she's produced such an astounding collection this season and has been able to continue Lee's vision through and through without compromising any aspect of the brand. McQueen already has a solid identity and now that we've seen what this woman can do let's all just appreciate the beauty that she has created. in due time i do think we can anticipate Sarah shifting the brand to a more commercial direction but as of now a more focused debut collection that harks to the original designer's creations will best appease everyone; after all that was what everybody was worried about originally, if the Gucci Group rightfully chose Sarah as Lee's succesor. and this collection shows that they really made an excellent move.

i couldn't agree more. plus... who is in charge of deciding what women want? im a woman but i don't necessarily want what phoebe philo designs. i love her aesthetic but it's not what i wear. On the other hand, mcqueen's collections always inspired me and the retail clothes in stores are exactly my style. to each designer its own target and type of 'woman', i guess.

Bottom line is, in order to be relevant in this business, you have to please Gucci with good sales. And at this point in time, real woman spend money on real clothes.

you're still talking as if mcqueen stores sold the clothes they put on the runway. the dresses and suits they sell are way more real and wearable than some atrocities i see at dolce and gabbana or other designers.

 

[Prairie]

It remains me Padmé Amidala's closet. And I like it.

 

[JuiceMajor]

Without getting to analytical about it, this is a nice collection. A bit pre-mature to judge Sarah as this collection is, to me, entirely based on the archive!

 

[AiryFairy]

Wow, I was unsure at first, but after seeing the more HQ photos the collection is beautiful and very McQueen. I agree that if she strayed from his signature style people would claim it wasn't enough "McQueen" -- it's a double edged sword!

They look fantastic and I LOVE THE HAIR!!!

 

[BibiRose]

I'm happy because of the fact that Sarah Burton didn't forget who she replaced. The whole collection screams McQueen, it's a bit too similar to previous seasons for me, but I think that in some time she will compose her own trademarks.

 

[beaverhausen]

This is amazing! Sarah did an absolutely fantastic job.. especially with the huge amount of pressure that must be resting on her shoulders to continue Lee's legacy but also to move the house forward. I am sure he will be smiling down on her with pride. She is the best successor we could wish and hope for. Brava Sarah brava!

 

[MayYing]

seems like a conclusion of Lee's several years work. i could easily point out the original Lee's work..

 

[MayYing]

It is very McQueen, but Lee will never let large such quantities of similarities with past collections appear on the runway. She made her rtw debut on Lee's shoulder and i appreciate her respect to the inheritance of the House, but i doubt she only got the shape of McQueen not the spirit of McQueen.

 

[eternitygoddess]

This is fantastic. Above and beyond expectation.

Alexander McQueen is probably the most difficult designer to follow after, but Ms. Burton did an absolutely incredible job of presenting this collection. I look at this and I automatically think McQueen.

I'm sure we can sit here all day and pick apart at nuances. However for a first collection, there is no denying that this is a magnificent effort.

Bravo!

 

[Vangie]

Wow, it was a really great collection! Sarah has made a very good job, i'm pleased. I liked all the designs, they were all lovely!

 

[lovemetwotimes]

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