Alexander McQueen S/S 2022 London

I don’t feel too good about what Sarah Burton is doing in this collection.

The silhouette of the first few looks are too similar to what she has been doing since Spring 2021 or even earlier… it’s getting a bit stale by now

And there was one particular suit that looks too similar to the shapes of Balenciaga… I know both labels belong to Kering Group but still…
 
Probably one of her worst showings for the house.

The clothes are just there. She could have left out all of the formal dresses because they add nothing at all here. The bags in the show seem like they were added by "the suits". For a moment while watching, I was content that there were no t-shirts being shown on the runway. Then came a look with those sneakers.

Naomi closing every show as herself and not a part of the show is yawn inducing now especially when you're one of the last shows of the season to have the opportunity to use her.

Anyways, this show feels terribly uninspired. A few great pieces sprinkled in here and there but nothing we haven't already seen in the boutiques.
 
The whole collection is just "been there, done that". In a way this look like her greatest hits collection. I still don't know where can she go from here, she has been designed herself into the corner for quite few seasons.

All of her recent collections just lack imagination. Her colors palettes, silhouettes and hybrid techniques are getting predictable and stale and this point.

She doesn't have to imitating Lee, but it's okay to go back to the archive once in awhile to refresh your imagination and remember the house that she's designing for.
 
The whole collection is just "been there, done that". In a way this look like her greatest hits collection. I still don't know where can she go from here, she has been designed herself into the corner for quite few seasons.

All of her recent collections just lack imagination. Her colors palettes, silhouettes and hybrid techniques are getting predictable and stale and this point.

She doesn't have to imitating Lee, but it's okay to go back to the archive once in awhile to refresh your imagination and remember the house that she's designing for.

True but it clear that Lee Mcqueen work and ideas are out at this house, this is a new house with a lot of cash flow and more to come. When money come into play, ideas colors new shapes are gonna be out. I like her work and what she done for the house. But this collection is Lees worst nightmare - The house of Mcqueen is just a commercial house kinda sad if you really no who mcqueen is and was , P.S that show space is wonderful
 
Whoever started pairing gowns/dresses with sneakers and called it a styling trick deserves to burn in hell. What could be a decent garment is ruined by stupid footwear. Why is she so obsessed with combat boots? Simple black heels would be just enough.

It's her weakest collection to date. Same old, same old but somehow uglier and even more pedestrian. Models looked short and massive.

Naomi is so desperate these days. I wouldn't be surprised if she did these shows for free. Give that alpaca wig a break.
 
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There are a lot of references to other designers in this collection...and very very few references to McQueen.

And Naomi is perfect for this brand: she has become as irrelevant as Mcqueen...
 
^^^ Yeah, at best it’s just some nice clothes at this point.

As diminished as the brand seems now, the mainline formalwear and suiting for both men and women still contain some nuggets of a solid offering— with some surprisingly masterful architectural construction. There was a men’s bespoke suit jacket that had these ingenious cut-outs at the waist and back that perfectly represented the disciplined tailored maverick spirit of McQueen the man. Even here, the leather trench/trench gown/men’s suiting and that white tank dress with the spikes are gorgeous— even if the lesbian Riot Grrrrrl styling is tiresome. Wished the brand were allowed to flourish and develop along this more sophisticated and bespoke, and very English tradition that Sarah excels at instead of this forced tuff chickz in delicate froufrou branding. But yeah— I get it, corporate needs to be down with the lessers these day, thus the combat boots and sneakers with gowns silliness. And diverse and inclusive trendy kidz and streetwear styling and all that— to sell those cheap skull jewelry and scarves.

I still like Sarah. But this sort of designs would benefit so greatly from just the clothes on a hanger showcase setting.
 
The casting is weird and doing no favors. And the clothes look even worse in motion. Had to stop after the first 5 looks.
 
i much prefer when she does couture level eveningwear

this is just.. really dull and the casting makes it even more dull.
 
What….was….that!!!!!! I can already picture the reviews, “And to conclude the showing, the ever beautiful, glorious Naomi Campbell strutted out in a magnificently opulent cropped blazer and asymmetrical tulle skirt. Breathtaking as always, she concluded the showing with such poise, such elegance. Truly an icon, both the worlds most successful model and the creator of the set Sarah Burton deserve a thunderous applause for a collection that is rooted in reality, yet is as expansive as is the growing universe”.

Give me a break. The lack of movement, vibrancy, ENERGY left such a sower taste in my mouth. I understand the presentation took place inside a bubble or whatever, but to make tulle look so flat is truly a gift. The tailoring and mixing of mediums is beginning to bore me, and the slits and random cuts in the suiting in such an insult to her actual gift as a tailor. It only retracts from the beautiful fabric, I wonder if this is an attempt to make it, modern? At the end of the day the handwork is great. Really, I applaud whoever is in charge of the embroidery. Without that the collection is a complete miss.

Lastly, the trimmings were so off to me. In particular the giant zippers. This is not Lanvin, Alber’s showing of the zip was done intricately and generously, such monstrous sizes give off a very junior look that is not appealing in the slightest.
 

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