Bottega Veneta F/W 2024.25 Milan

[jeanclaude]

This collection makes me think of a boring Hermès one (from Nadège or Véronique); but trying to give it a more "hip" and "modern" look (and failing in achieving it so).

Also, the Kansai Yamamoto reference feels like glued to the collection for no apparent reason. Like a last moment idea gone wrong.

 

[Living Proof]

But everything cannot be compared. I think context always matters in fashion because the creative intention is always informed by context.
Ferragamo in the fashion landscape is less important as a name than Bottega Veneta. Ferragamo is not a name that moves a needle in fashion.
Bottega Veneta under Tomas Maier defined a certain idea of luxury. Under Daniel Lee, it became a force in terms of fashion and so the expectations for Blazy are high…Beyond his impressive resume, his work now has this kind of duty to be part of the fashion conversation.

I loved the Tod’s show. In terms of creativity, there’s nothing really there to talk about but it was clever, relevant for the brand, for the time and it just felt right. I will buy a bag, I will go to the store, try some clothes and who knows…Buy something. But I’m totally aware of the fact that Tod’s won’t change anything in the fashion conversation.

Blazy has proved that he can deliver fireworks so people have higher expectations from him.

But are people saying what you’re saying though? What I’m seeing is how he’s this Phoebe wannabe whose entire design identity is invalid bc he’s not taking these massive creative risks. And the funny part is, he’s taken plenty of risks, all things considered.

And speaking of context, have we considered that he’s also working under a much more restrictive brief and has to answer to many more stakeholders than Davis? I feel like when you’re the creative director of arguably the most ‘hopeful’ house in the group, you’ve got more pressing expectations to address than “moving the needle”, that’s a pretty important piece of context as well, don’t you think?

 

[FashionFanatico]

I am bottega-ed to death this time.
And i loved his shows before.

Only the pleated knitwear ensembles and some dresses were a stunning move.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Are those... Giant LEGO cacti in the floor space?

It's certainly a stark gear shift from last season, which I think is needed. It is kind of a blah collection, but I think Blazy needed to do this and hopefully continues to do so for Spring 2025. It's great that he likes to experiment, but he has been needing to think of a more core product orientated direction here and there to bring in some more realism to the collections.

Love those mille-feuille/pleat knits. Wanted a couple more of those in some more colour combinations. Maybe one in a beautiful sheath and another as a top without sleeves or something. In fact, he's pretty good when it comes to texture. Just needs to learn how to execute it better as a more realistic offering.

In general, getting a little exhausted by such strong shoulder offerings as of late. Could we just relax it a little. Just a tad. The Kansai reference was just out of left field too. Why is it here?

 

[AVC]

While there were absolutely gorgeous pieces I’d love to own, I’m not sure how I feel about the full show as a collection; didn’t see a distinctive point of view or concept behind this, and the color / texture choices were a bit haphazard without rhyme or reason. Not as strong as I would’ve hoped.

 

[TerraVera]

it feels too familiar, like he's having a hallucinatory flashback to better days and refused to live in the present. if this is his escapism - if philo-celine is his safe place -cool, fine, but not at bottega. do that under your own name.

the collection was stagnant then teeters off into weirdness, such as what was going on with the back and white exaggerate shoulder menswear thing and those ugly dresses? it's all so flat. the clothes are practical and wearable (which i think was one of his goals), but it is hard for me to see the beauty in these clothes. it's not there.

blazy is a middle-of-the-road designer with a lack of independent voice or vision. that's not anything to appreciate.

this collection solidified my peace is not liking blazy's work.

 

[yslforever]

What tickles me is the fact that people are calling this boring and safe but singing praises for MD’s Ferragamo. Especially considering Blazy’s got way more bricks on his back from the group. I honestly think some people just want to dump on whatever and whoever’s hot, moving the goalpost for the popular kids bc they feel the need to humble and de-hype them.

People implicitly contextualizes; Maximilian Davis is good for Ferragamo; which I would describe as a sleeping second-tier, conservative, luxury house with an aging customer base, Davis is good in this context, he serves the aging customer bases while offering a fresher approach to new customers, and keeping the luxurious aspect.
Bottega Veneta wishes to be an artsy Hermès, especially since New Bottega Daniel Lee. Fine. With Blazy we are getting both of that, the craft is there, sometimes showing too much like DYI fabrics research or some kind of experimentation nerd. Blazy is definitely light-handed. This collection is much better though.

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

Cumbersome.
Punitive.
Sad.
No.

 

[lhhbl]

I think it was his best offer for the house so far. It felt more fluid than the previous offerings - can still improve on this though as some of the clothes look too big and bulky for real life.
But since it's an improvement, I'm here for it. The cast fitted like a glove.
Looks 11, 15, 20, 23, 26 and 66 are a delight!

 

[disco54]

Overall its very nice, you can clearly see the Phoebe Philo influence tho, those 80s style shawl jackets/blouses are every where now. This definitely has a mid 80s Japanese jaunt to it with the volumes too. Far better than Ferragamo

 

[style_expert]

I'm glad he toned down the materiality and nearly excessive display of technique a little bit. This collection feels more edited and better styled compared to last season.
The oversized sunglasses on the girl in the white look seem to be a straight copy from Phoebe Philo's recent debut collection (still available to buy!) which is a bit too blatant, even when all the other references to Phoebe are in plain sight too.

With Blazy it seems he has all the right and best quality ingredients and talent to prepare a spectacular and tasteful recipe, it's just that the right steps and order are somewhat missing so he somehow doesn't get to finding the right balance. I'm still hopeful he'll get to it one day...

 

[perhydrol]

It's such a beautiful collection, I'm impressed! And I was more or less ready to give up on Bottega Veneta after their celebrity campaign and the s/s 2024 show. I love how graphic the silhouettes are, even the sharpness of the shoulders makes sense for me here, especially in knitwear. I also feel like it's less heavy on experimenting with fabrics, and maybe that's why it feels less forced than s/s 2024. I love it, and this time, even the in-house styling is not problematic at all.

 

[Kennnnn]

I watched the video and found it excellent. Got the feeling that he started off with a clear silhouette in mind - rounded at the top, extending into a long, lean line. Then he shifted the volume toward the hips, creating a sense of movement and vibration. And then he added on various details, like the sliver of a leather collar, bejewelled clasps, immigration stamp prints. I loved the more straightforward looks that shot through the collection - the sharp 70s look on Liu Wen, and that ivory high necked sweater on Imaan that was just the picture of modern luxury. I really like this direction for Bottega.

 

[Ruito]

Sublime! Haven't enjoyed a collection this much in a very long time.

 

[WAVES]

another amazing collection (minus a couple of looks imo)
that long red leather jacket is divine, most of the dresses… the coats are gorgeous!

he always manages to bring something new and I love that from him.

he’s one of the best designers that we have!

 

[FashioNarrating]

A slightly more streamlined and sculptural version of his previous collections, overall not very exciting. Blazy's Bottega has become rather formulaic, and while the formula may work, there is a risk of turning the brand into a broken record of many volumes, leathers and fringe (will designers try to find a new way to create movement, we are tired after several seasons - actually, years of it). The color scheme composed of neutrals with traffic signal hues is not doing it for me either.. I wish he'd go leaner & meaner, or 'humbler' in a way Tomas Maier did, which I know is unlikely to happen bcs Kering wants the ching.

 

[FashionFanatico]

Take all my money, Blazy!

I am moved by these marvelously movements that only great fashion can achieve.

Just like @Kennnnn explained it excellently: there's a real (and beautiful) evolution going on in this show. And the more subtle the designs – the more
modern the luxury.

i would love to wear most of the dresses, the millefeuille-knits and especially the amazing iceblue ensemble (no 13).

Indeed: you will only discover the real beauty of it all while watching the video. While witnessing how the movements of the creations are close to perfection.

 

[donyan]

I love this collection, so many beautiful and desirable pieces. Ok so maybe there's no obviuos story, and maybe some of it is heavy but when it soars it really SOARS. One of my favourites this season.

 

[Alquimista]

Idk some of the shapes are not good. The restrained fabric exploration makes it more visible too. I think he should kept playing with fabrics, that's his strenght.

This collection is also interesting as an example of the farse of these young designer's minimalism. How is this minimalism when everything has to have cartoony, wide proportions, when heaviness is the rule? The designer clearly has good taste, but we need to define what style is this because minimalism it is not.

 

[jeremydante]

Agree that this collection is safe. But; it's really about the celebrity PR of it all. No matter how safe it is, whoever rocks the looks /pieces will continue to drive the notoriety; and you know the TT generation will eat everything up, as long as they see everyone else wearing it - safe or not. Ready to see these looks styled into editorial.