No more Chav look for Burberry
By Laura Craik, Fashion Editor in Milan, Evening Standard
29 September 2004
Burberry has been in the news for all the wrong reasons recently. Last month, a pub chain in Leicester banned Burberry-wearing youths from drinking in its establishments after identifying them as a bunch of drunk delinquents.
But such trifles were the last thing on Rose Marie Bravo's mind as she took her front row seat at the Burberry Prorsum show in Milan.
In a calf-length gold lamé trench coat - fitting for a woman with the Midas touch - the highest-paid female executive in the FTSE 250 clapped delightedly as she watched Yorkshire-born designer Christopher Bailey's latest triumph for her brand.
Also front row was Kate Moss, longtime face of Burberry's advertising campaign, dressed in a black mini trench, black tights and black kneelength leather boots.
But what was that peaking from beneath her upturned collar? The very same Burberry check associated with the lager lout brigade. A clever move, for if anyone can help make the house check cool again, it is Kate Moss looking impossibly glamorous at a show.
But Burberry Prorsum is not about checks, nor has it ever been. It is the luxury component of the Burberry powerhouse, as far removed from the checked umbrellas, baseball hats and airport shop slippers as it is possible to get. London girls love its brand of Nancy Mitford chic. A typical look would comprise a knee-length satin skirt, a cotton blouse and a cardigan, all in clashing colours.
Burberry Prorsum isn't so much for It girls as Don't Give a S**t girls - women so confident of their style that they can afford to dress down a little.
For spring 2005, Bailey stuck to his tried-and-tested formula of whimsical Mitford chic, reworking the look in pretty pastel colours. Heavy cotton dustercoats came in lemon, pink or powder blue with skirts, tunics and blouses in mismatching floral prints.
Everything was cut loose: a coat sleeve came balloon-shaped; a smock dress flared from below the bustline, its hem having a further flounce.
The whole collection was fresh, breezy and highly desirable, crammed full of girlish must-haves such as a pair of floralsprigged wedge sandals, or a scarf trimmed with tiny pom-poms.
Eveningwear was a little more challenging: dresses with sweetheart necklines and tiered skirts came in jewel metallics such as emerald, sapphire and bright pink. There were also dresses with a slightly Grecian twist, their skirts draped in dramatic folds. These came in strong yellow and red, a respite from all the pastels.
Chav fashion? Hardly. Burberry Prorsum is one label you won't see in Leicester's pubs any time soon. This look is strictly for ladies.