Catwalk Trends S/S 07

[MissAnia]

^ania! . is that S/S 07?!, why did i miss her show?, i didnt know maria cornejo was back in NY.


thanks to everyone.

awhhh darling no probem ! visit www.nymag.com and see the whole collection !

 

[Eccentricity]

60's & 70's references S/S 07

Based on NYFW's initial shows a general trend of shapes derived from the late 60's and 70's is emerging again - rather than the harder, grungier mood taken last season designers are opting for a more whimisical undertone for spring summer 2007. The cut of most garments is typical of this particular era, hems placed higher, collars stiffer and everly prominent. Like last spring, an upgraded sense of minalisim is emerging into the forefront - colours usually restricted to cream or white shades, prints often weakly asymetrical and not particularly bold. For once, the clothes really do speak for themselves, the hair and make up peculiarly secondary to the simplistic but impressionable clothes.

-Sinclair Edwards

 

[Couture_Tribe]

Totally LOVE it, I am sick of fitted mens vest with lacy/romantic blouse, within two days of high school, five girls wore the exact same look with skinny jeans and flats.

The oversize ones will feel much more fresh, me LOVE it.

 

[laughingdisorder]

Like it, it's better than the fitted vests that everyone seemed to wear last season and they really shouldn't be buttoned imo.

 

[ApertureRomance]

Can't pick a favourite shade. Perhaps electric as I have a cotton dress in that colour.

 

[DosViolines]

source: nytimes.com

September 14, 2006
Fashion Week
Forecast: Simpler for Spring

By ERIC WILSON

ALONG with streaming updates of what designers are showing for spring, the editors of Style.com have distilled the trends of more immediate concern to the rest of the world — that is, what you should be wearing this fall — into six digestible bites: the bubble, fur, layering, oversize, metallic and Napoleonic.

Boiled down even further, the message was pump up the volume. Big is in. What this means sank in, quite painfully, shortly before Alice Roi’s show on Saturday afternoon in Bryant Park. “Excuse me, but my bag is so big,” a large woman said accusingly, as she tried to fill an unclaimed seat in the second row, raking other guests’ heads as if they were a line of coconuts, with an accessory that would not pass muster with airline regulations for overhead storage.

Well, guess what?

The buzz from Ms. Roi and other designers showing spring 2007 collections this week indicates a leaner silhouette taking shape, in some cases revealing a bit of the feminine form that was masked in fall’s layers of oversize sweaters, sack shapes and bubble skirts. The designers of Proenza Schouler went so slim as to allude to skintight 1980’s dresses from Azzedine Alaïa.

The chief complaint about fall’s cocooning layers, clubfooted killer boots and dresses that protrude as far from the body as possible through a complicated infrastructure of pulleys and levers is that they are bereft of any sexiness, or they are an effort to obscure a pregnancy from public scrutiny.

From the first few dozen designers previewing spring collections in New York — the first of many to come in London, Milan and Paris — it’s clear that some have begun to prick the balloons of fall, leaving only the layers of fabric behind. Some designers are using words like “collapsed,” “utility” and “armorlike” to describe the new shape, which certainly indicates a recognition of a world outside the relatively serene idyll of escapism known as Fashion Week.

This is not to say that designers are abandoning the ideas they put forth only six months ago: the change could be called a market correction.

“I don’t think fashion should change that quickly,” Donna Karan said on Sunday at her DKNY presentation. Ms. Karan was not kidding. She showed color-block tent dresses in baby-doll and floor-length variations, ruched along the seams and evocative of those ubiquitous broomstick skirts that have been hanging around for two summers. “Fashion is an evolution,” she said. “I really don’t think that every time the seasons change that you should have to throw everything out of your closet.”

Marc Jacobs continued experimenting with the layered fabrics he showed for fall, although with a lighter hand and mood. “We wanted to create a different mood,” he said, “not the urban nomadic, wintery feeling that we had for fall, but something of lightness, gentility and slight otherworldliness.”

The trends identified by Style.com for fall still apply. You just have to adjust the picture for warmer weather, dropping fur, naturally, and Napoleonic, because “Marie Antoinette” will have been out of theaters by then, and the 18th century will be, like, so over. That brings us to an unscientific, but reasonably accurate instant replay of the trends for spring: the tent, pajamas, veiled fabrics and shocking (à la Schiaparelli).

Designs for the Big Top


From left, Aaron Fineman for The New York Times; Richard Termine for The New York Times; Firstview
TENTSVolume’s still the word, for spring as it was for fall, in swinging, cascading shapes. The dress designs here are, from left, by Thakoon, Jeremy Laing and Sabyasachi.

The buzzword for fall was volume. Like Ms. Karan, designers were not quick to abandon their experimentation with fuller shapes. For spring this idea was carried forward almost unanimously with tent dresses — swinging, cascading shapes that recall Goldie Hawn’s ruffled frocks on “Laugh-In.” The trapezes in the collections of Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Diane Von Furstenberg and Thakoon Panichgul represented volume in a playful, unpretentious way.

“The difference this season is that it’s cleaner,” Ms. Karan said. “There’s a new sense of reality that we’re all feeling, where we’re looking for basics for comfort and ease, things that are not overly complicated.”

At the same time some designers took a more relaxed view of such grand proportions. Tomorrow, Doo-Ri Chung plans to show a collection of lightweight chiffons and jerseys, which display her ample talents for draping. “The volume is still there, but everything has a sense of collapsing in upon itself,” Ms. Chung said. Jeremy Laing, a young Toronto designer, showed a series of collapsed swing dresses in which the fabric was gathered in a drape at the back, which he also described as “collapsed.”

With the solemnity of the fifth anniversary of 9/11 coinciding with the celebratory atmosphere of Fashion Week, “collapsing” dresses may be a subliminal expression of designer angst. Rather than avoiding the subject, they are frankly addressing how fashion has changed.

“Right after 9/11 we were all into this perfect pearls, 50’s lady look for a second, but I think people are ready to be stronger and more aggressive in more ways,” Ms. Roi said.

Surrealistic Motifs


WireImage; Elizabeth Lippman, Rahav Segev for The New York Times
PHANTASMS The specter of Elsa Schiaparelli is haunting the spring shows with references to her surrealistic touches: A fighting fish motif from Benjamin Cho; top left, shocking pink from Marc Bouwer; below left, a ladybug from Diane Von Furstenberg.

There is an ever-rotating circle of seminal designers, whose specters hang mysteriously over the fashion collections, as if the message had been passed along by a secret message board on MySpace.com. Last season it was Cristobal Balenciaga, who was cited as the inspiration for bubble skirts and high volume. This season the fashion gang has turned to Elsa Schiaparelli, the spectacularly witty designer, who twisted Coco Chanel’s breeches for half of the 20th century.

Schiaparelli’s work was noted for its surrealistic touches: vibrant colors and odd insect motifs. (Her polka dots were actually embroidered black flies on a shocking-pink dress.) Benjamin Cho’s spring collection included abstract fishes woven of black silk. They were strapped to the dresses much like the lobsters Schiaparelli conceived with Salvador Dali.

“When you think of shocking pink, who else do you think of?” Marc Bouwer asked after his show, which included flowing gowns in that color and models wearing a lipstick called Schiap. “Everyone was saying the trend was going to be muted colors, but I wanted something true and pure,” Mr. Bouwer said. There were brighter colors, too, from DKNY and Diane Von Furstenberg, who also designed pretty prints of ladybugs and bumblebees.

Pants You Can Sleep In


Jennifer Altman, Elizabeth Lippman for The New York Times
PAJAMAS Slouchy pants with more than a hint of sleepwear appeared in spring designs by Alice Roi, left, and Duckie Brown, far left, a men’s suit of heavy blue shirting with an 80-inch-drawstring waist.

Another variation on volume came in the form of slouchy pajama pants, from Ms. Roi, the “Project Runway” alumnus Malan Breton and others. In Ms. Roi’s case, she designed dresses as well as pants and boxer shorts in a men’s pajama fabric or tan cotton with white pajama piping. Tara Subkoff, of Imitation of Christ, showed sweats made of gray fleece embossed with a metallic sheen, and Marc Jacobs offered the couture alternative, billowing gazar.

Perhaps the most daring example came from the Duckie Brown designers, Steven Cox and Daniel Silver, who made a men’s suit of heavy blue shirting and cut the pants with an 80-inch-drawstring waist. “We wanted to keep the silhouette,” Mr. Silver said, “but make the proportions bigger.” The idea seems to say that men, too, sometimes have body flaws they would like to hide.

Beneath the Veil


Firstview
MESHOne spring idea is fabrics enmeshed in other fabrics, as in the designs by Oscar de la Renta, left, and Thom Browne, right, with a sheer dotted fabric over a wool jacket (veil on hat entirely optional).

One of Mr. Jacobs’s many intriguing fall ideas, also seen in the collections of Peter Som and Lanvin, was the illusion of volume he created by enveloping a heavy fabric like cashmere with a layer of lace or netting. A logical evolution of layering for spring was seen in the collections of Brian Reyes, Oscar de la Renta and the men’s wear designer Thom Browne, who fitted a layer of cotton voile or a sheer fabric embroidered with Swiss dots over a traditional jacket of gray or white wool. In essence, the heavier fabrics become veiled.

“It’s evocative of a romantic world,” Mr. Browne said. “It’s nice and new and beautiful.”

 

[Carrme]

Spring '07 Trends

So far I havn't really seen a trend or a piece constantly repeat itself. Frankly I havn't seen show i like yet. I love this past year but im not feeling spring 2007. So anyone agree? or is there something trnedy out there i havn't caught on yet? I just need to chat about it because i'm so down over this week

Thank-you!

 

[softgrey]

ok- good to start this thread now that ny is almost over...

just going to move it to trendspotting...

i guess we have to point out that VOLUME...is huge...
and beyond babydoll--we now have TENT DRESSES...

 

[disco54]

yeah i saw a lot of huge pajama type pants on major catwalks , marc jacobs, posen, Donna Karan, Peter som ,Derek Lam

 

[Lena]

Chloe ss06 and both Vintage and ss06 Balenciaga are leading the trends
Pilati seems also very influencial via ysl and sadly ..Theyskens

for what i've seen so far i zoom in

yellow- finally emerging
tent dresses- are huge
fake whites and faded pastels
satin
3D effects - with transparency
layering- yes still
'autumn mood' for summer
simplicity
extravagance
tacky chic

great trendspotting everyone

 

[~Blythe~]

Cobolt was done to death here last summer so I am a bit over that...the midnight blues and pastels are lovely tho!

 

[ClassicFashion]

Yellow S/S 2007

In a season dominated by neutrals (greys, creams, whites), its nice to see that one colour (okay, two - blue made a pretty big statement) has come shining through. Glorious and bright, I have always had a liking for yellow - Think of how great Renne Zellweger looked in that canary yellow Jean Desses dress at the Oscars (yes, blondes can wear yellow) ?

Besides, doesn't everyone love Big Bird? From mustard to honey to school-bus bright, this colour works well with all the grey, cream, and white you'll be stocking up on anyway...


What do you think of this trend?
Jeremy Laing/Ruffian

Sari Gueron/ Oscar De La Renta

Diane Von Furstenber, Peter Som

 

[Spike413]

I've noticed a vaguely 20's vibe going on. Dresses seem to be very straight cut, but instead of last years stiff, structured fabric, designers are opting for soft fluid fabreics instead. Marc Jacobs had some 20's looking outfits, Zac Posen opted for a more speakeasy showgirl approach, Vera Wang also opted for soft chiffon dresses with dropped waists.

 

[Couture_Tribe]

can't see the image, all red X

 

[ClassicFashion]

sorry...

ahh..tried to ling from my blog...Learning: That doesn't work! lol...

Laing/Ruffian

Sari Gueron/Oscar

Furstenberg/Som

Credit: Style.com

 

[Lena]

love yellow, at least from NY shows, i think its THE colour of the next summer

CKlein and Malandrino also 'did' yellow

 

[serena775]

what if someone did their entire collection in yellow and called it yellow? Just a thought, one of my friends wants to do that except in green, i think its a silly idea, but i think it would get him noticed

 

[Lena]

^ sorry but it is a silly idea..
the point is not to get noticed, is to sell and to be honest and no-gimmicky

 

[disco54]

actually vague 20's vibe has progressed to a strong 20s vibe , with all major catwalks in new york showing them , Marc jacobs, Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan and Zac posen.
Yeah and people are copying pilate too much, with pouf and bubble skirts . I abhor his clothes , im a tom kind of a girl.

 

[Spike413]

Bright Pink s/s 07

So far this season the color palette is one of two extremes, soft, subtle shades of beige, grey and cream or super bright athletic colors.

Blue and yellow have been covered, now it's time for the hottest of hot pinks

personally I love it, it's refreshing after so many seasons of blush and rose tinted pinks. It's kind of tarty in an appealing sort of way.

Carolina Herrera

Diane Von Furstenberg

DKNY

Karen Walker

Marchesa

Narciso Rodriguez

Oscar de la Renta

Rodarte

Zac Posen

style.com