Christian Dior S/S 2014 Paris

[jeanclaude]

Personally, I abhor words on clothing. They always seem like lazy shorthand when you're having difficulty getting your message across in your designs.

Totally, totally agree!!! When you aren´t able to express a concept only through the use of fabric, I see that as a designer failure.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

I don't understand why his Dior experiments always turn out so messy and over designed. Like his previous couture collection the construction is very shoddy. He created new fashion at Jil Sander that was perfectly tailored and made, not to mention beautiful. The main difference between this and Prada is the construction and quality, it was perfectly done in Milan whereas most this just looks like sh*t. I did like how he added the floral pattern in the back of Vlada's suit even though it's the same suit from last spring.

 

[Creative]

I saw it again, and all I can think about is how bad constructed/sewn/done everything looks. I guess it’s intentional, because we’re talking about Dior, and I’ve had the same feeling with his previous shows for the house, but it looks terrible. Furthermore, most of the fabrics used for the tailoring part looked shoddy.

I don’t why many people are praising the use of color here. A genius of color? Where? Some years ago the press used to say that about Lacroix… who definitely had a great eye for shades, but… him? People’s perception has changed so much… or I must be missing something. Right now the designer who has the greatest eye for color is Phoebe… but no one notices.

And, again, the lack of coherence of the show really disconcerts me. I can’t find a nexus between the looks… The editing is atrocious, the worst one of the whole fashion circuit without any doubt.

The sad thing is that he used to be quite good at Jil Sander. He had a particular point of view, there was an evolution between the collections, the garments looked polished and fresh, and you got a message after seeing his shows… But now? I wonder what happened. The ‘Dior is way bigger than Jil Sander and the clients need more options’ excuse doesn’t work.

Anyway, there were nice things about the show. The make-up was GENIUS and I kind of enjoyed Camille’s trinkets. Hearing Garrix’s music as a soundtrack was unexpected and kind of funny, too.

I’m surprised Suzy didn’t criticize the collection, but maybe she’s afraid of getting banned from Dior again. Oh, and Cathy is clearly the most biased ‘journalist’ of all time… my god.

 

[GirlGoneChic]

From what i can see from my phone, the clothes here randomly go from amazing to awkward to wtf. Some pieces are truly stunning and i can't wait to get a closer look, but so far i just wanna Say that i've always found writings / Lettering on clothes to be extremely tacky and this is no exception, sadly.

My thoughts exactly. If you have to put text on clothing to get the message (of what your clothing is about) across, you've failed at expressing it. And why do the shoes say "Christian Dior 2014" on the side panels? What a shame.

 

[rayoflight]

Omg. I missed the detail pics with the shoes that everyone talks about. Truly weird. I would prefer to think some worker just got confused and put on the panels on the outside out of sheer human error but hardly the case here, I'm afraid. It's as bad as the all-over Dior monogram clothes years ago.

I was looking (and got a retina burn) at the clothes and ignored the accessories. Most of the bags are brilliant and will probably sell like hot cakes.
Which is shame because that will get people into stores and the sales figures will be great and be accident clothes or whatever rags will be sold as well and they'll never throw the guy out.

 

[Morphe]

i just watch Martin Grant S/S 2014
http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2014RTW-MGRANT/
this collection look like much more Christian DIOR than Raf´s

Surely you jest.

 

[Marc10]

Those are probably just the show samples, I hardly think the shoes on stores will share that detail.

 

[VersaceVixen009]

I know its been a while since Galliano's departure, but Im still mourning his departure and it's still hard for me to see collections like this for Dior. Maybe its just me

 

[XxpinktinksxX]

My favorite Dior collection in a while .

 

[SabrinaNicole]

Raf never seems to create... clothes. And by clothes, I mean garments that flatter or at least respect the shape of the body. He has a vague idea of what clothes are, and this shows in the modes in which he can "design": supremely pedestrian or conventional silhouettes (offset by some unique color or print), obvious attempts at "fashion" (hipbone cutouts), or something just plain unaccountable to the wearer. Instead of having the mind of a designer, I believe Raf really has the mind of an artist. In the video, the "clothes" look stiff, unforgiving, impervious to motion. They appear as if they should exist on a flat plane instead of on a living, breathing human being (and, yes, his work for Dior always looks better in photographs than in real life). This leads me to suspect that Raf designs in two dimensions rather than in three. The body is treated like a smooth canvas. Those skirt-shorts, for instance, look like they're fabric stuck between the models' legs instead. In addition, his perceived strengths as a designer (his sense of color, texture, and print) just serve to reinforce what I've always thought of his work. Maybe it would be better if he changed his chosen medium of expression.

Personally, I abhor words on clothing. They always seem like lazy shorthand when you're having difficulty getting your message across in your designs.

Hmm could be.

 

[Zazie]

I don't see two-dimensional designs at all, eg., the jackets with the surprise fullness and volume spliced into the pleats at the back. That is a pure Alaia moment. Other than NG at Balenciaga, I don't see any other designers setting influential directions. The shiny metallic trend, the layered transparent paneling in skirts, the art graphics of women at Prada, even Wang at Balenciaga are showing very Dior by RS construction, shapes, details, etc. I'm not sure about the words on some of the looks, but those are exceptions for me. Who knows if this will become the theme next season on some runways, like the graphic art female print by Jean Cocteau in his last collection that was hated. On the whole, there are more beautiful outfits than duds. What matters to me is if his ideas drive fashion forward.

 

[frk-frost]

I don't mind it but I'm not really blown away and that makes me sad..

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Raf never seems to create... clothes. And by clothes, I mean garments that flatter or at least respect the shape of the body. He has a vague idea of what clothes are, and this shows in the modes in which he can "design": supremely pedestrian or conventional silhouettes (offset by some unique color or print), obvious attempts at "fashion" (hipbone cutouts), or something just plain unaccountable to the wearer. Instead of having the mind of a designer, I believe Raf really has the mind of an artist. In the video, the "clothes" look stiff, unforgiving, impervious to motion. They appear as if they should exist on a flat plane instead of on a living, breathing human being (and, yes, his work for Dior always looks better in photographs than in real life). This leads me to suspect that Raf designs in two dimensions rather than in three. The body is treated like a smooth canvas. Those skirt-shorts, for instance, look like they're fabric stuck between the models' legs instead. In addition, his perceived strengths as a designer (his sense of color, texture, and print) just serve to reinforce what I've always thought of his work. Maybe it would be better if he changed his chosen medium of expression.

Personally, I abhor words on clothing. They always seem like lazy shorthand when you're having difficulty getting your message across in your designs.

Definitely, though I think maybe calling him an artist is giving him too much credit.

 

[simple_elegance]

It was OK, certainly nothing stellar.