Continues Family of Brands-Carpe Diem, Linea, etc...
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Chinor1z said:
You mean the jacket I posted is MA+ too? Wow, seen a few pieces but this one is impressive. Is "Lument et Umbra" the name of the S/S07 collection?
By the way the name is kinda weird. It does refer to light and shadow (in latin) but lument is a verb and umbra is a noun.
lumen: source of light (not the same thing as "lux")
umbra: shadow, could be used in the context of painting
runner
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you're welcome dsq
the black one is paper. the other gray one is paper50 cotton50, btw.
yes, from # 314, it's all lument et umbra.
they (Cdiem) presented some new project in Berlin two years ago.
it was a simple line of some tops/t-shirts which were given coloring by sunlight to.
I think they called it lument et umbra.
but after that, some left the company, and it was never to come out from it after all.
one of them was Issei.
you might have watched a video for sartoria/anatomic. otherwise its link should be somewhere in linea thread. though I don't know if the link is still alive.
it's by Issei. he did much of the artwork about all the lines, for example those official images of Cdiem, Fattoamano, etc.
also some of the footwear were colored and some clothes were dyed actually by him.
then from A/W 06 he started his own label and named it lumen et umbra maybe because he was the key person in the original project.
the jacket is linen cotton.Fuuma said:
the black one is paper. the other gray one is paper50 cotton50, btw.
yes, from # 314, it's all lument et umbra.
they (Cdiem) presented some new project in Berlin two years ago.
it was a simple line of some tops/t-shirts which were given coloring by sunlight to.
I think they called it lument et umbra.
but after that, some left the company, and it was never to come out from it after all.
one of them was Issei.
you might have watched a video for sartoria/anatomic. otherwise its link should be somewhere in linea thread. though I don't know if the link is still alive.
it's by Issei. he did much of the artwork about all the lines, for example those official images of Cdiem, Fattoamano, etc.
also some of the footwear were colored and some clothes were dyed actually by him.
then from A/W 06 he started his own label and named it lumen et umbra maybe because he was the key person in the original project.
runner
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fattoamano is far less than linea.Chinor1z said:
it is not easy to find something from the line now.
but how about KH ?
I don't know though.
some of lument et umbra pieces have the cable-looking stitching like what you see on the fattoamano piece, if you are interested.
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Amadei's new shirt/jacket has a little red signature cross around the slit of the sleeve.
the buttons are leather.
the greyish leather looks yummy. it's rather soft for cordovan.
the production model will get some modification in the upper armhole.
it will look somewhat slimer than the sample in the pic.
I guess pants may be his line. the pants made of new jersey almost without elasticity are my fave this season.
but some of m across are almost like a rebirth of linea.
and many of the lument et umbra stuff reminds me of early LMaltieri.
something might be needed there before total saturation.
the buttons are leather.
the greyish leather looks yummy. it's rather soft for cordovan.
the production model will get some modification in the upper armhole.
it will look somewhat slimer than the sample in the pic.
I guess pants may be his line. the pants made of new jersey almost without elasticity are my fave this season.
but some of m across are almost like a rebirth of linea.
and many of the lument et umbra stuff reminds me of early LMaltieri.
something might be needed there before total saturation.
runner
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you are welcome Chinor1zChinor1z said:
I haven't spent a full 24 hours in the English-speaking world and I know my English can be weird
but I would not mean Hong Kong by KH.
KH is a store in Koln.
it used to carry linea and you could make an order for sartoria there.
so I just thought it might be worth checking.
fattoamano was sort of a cross between linea and sartoria/anatomic.
or ready-made sartoria/anatomic in a way.
and it was similar in prices too to linea.
runner said:
Thank you Runner!
I will actuall be moving to Berlin in March and living there until July. I will DEFINITELY make a trip to Koln and KH to see what they carry.
I also plan on flying/taking the train to Paris to visit Altieri's showroom there. I do hope to be able to get a sartoria shirt made in that time frame by his team.
Thank you again!
ionn26 said:
I'm not sure who told you that Atelier doesn't carry Carpe anymore... they stil have about 1/4 of their racks dedicated to Carpe/Linea. It's one of Atelier's quintessential lines that defines them as a store.
The other stores in the US that carry the line are:
Alan Bilzerian (www.alanbilzerian.com) in Boston
IF in SoHo, Manhattan
and Maxfield's in LA
Barneys NY and Boston also carry a limited selection of the shoes.
Most importantly, Alan Bilzerian is currently having a sale where even their Carpe is 30% off. Gray wrinkled leather shirts are $1750 down from $2500!
Thanks Albert for the info. It was jojo who told me... he mentioned that there were some re-organization or something so CDiem didn't have a show so Atelier is not going to buy it.
IF has extremely limited selection, Maxfield I tried calling but why do I spend money on a store that gives me attitude.
I am not too hot on the shoes...
As with Alan.. hmm... interesting.. any leather jacket??? I got a leather shirt from Carpe diem already.. so not too hot on getting another one.. although I have to say thats what really got me hooked on their past stuff...
IF has extremely limited selection, Maxfield I tried calling but why do I spend money on a store that gives me attitude.
I am not too hot on the shoes...
As with Alan.. hmm... interesting.. any leather jacket??? I got a leather shirt from Carpe diem already.. so not too hot on getting another one.. although I have to say thats what really got me hooked on their past stuff...
One other thing.. you know I am in serious dilemma that now Juicy Coutoure has come out with their own leather wrinkled line. I know that the quality, construction etc is not as good etc.. but.. I am debating whether to get the Juicy or wait for more discount on Cdiem...
Chinor1z said:
Am I correct in thinking thaT Maxfield is probably the oldest CD retailer in the US? Just curious
As for Juicy C. and C. Diem well I'd be surprised if the aesthetics are anything alike; after all Cavalli and 45RPM both make jeans....With that being said it is important to keep an open mind, some labels that have an overall design philosophy that I find to be outside of my interest do occasionally release some interesting garments that are a great addition to my wardrobe.
ionn26 said:
Hmm, JoJo mentioned that they weren't buying anything new but like you said I think it's a temporary thing until they get things settled over there at the Carpe design house. At first the way you wrote it, it seemed like someone had told you that A no longer actually carried the stuff anymore haha.
Yeah IF is kinda meh with their selection and maxfield's is really hit or miss when it comes to phone orders. I've been able to get them to take photos of some pieces and e-mail them to me though and I ordered my first freeform hat through them with no problems.
In terms of merchandise, Atelier definitely stocks the most (and best) on the east coast. Bilzerian's buy is always kind of iffy... and a lot of it is leftover from years past. They do carry the wrinkled leather shirts though with the gray wrinkled one at 30% off right now.
Bilzerian actually had this knee length Linea leather coat with a herringbone lining that blew me away... so did the price tag of about $8k. Yikes. Last time I went it was gone though. A customer in Tulsa, OK apparently may have picked it up.
Maxfield's has a leather Linea jacket with the triangular "hood" detail that is around $3800-3900 from what I was told. I don't think any leather jackets from the Carpe line are at Atelier. They used to have a Linea leather jacket but it was purchased by a guy I know.
The Maxfield's Linea leather jacket is this one (here pictured in heavy black canvas
Fuuma, I'm not sure if Maxfield's is the oldest carrier but I wouldn't be surprised if that were true.
Barney's used to carry the line... they also carried I think the inaugural Label Under Construction collection but dropped them right after hahaha!
Fuuma said:
just saw the JC version of the leather shirt/jacket... the sleeves are sort of barrel sleeves. no tightness, no wrinkling to them really. Hehe, I would have been stunned if someone like JC could pull off something of similar construction at a much lower price!
Well.. yes I dont mean that Atelier will not carry it anymore.. but from the sound of it it does...
So Atelier does not carry any leather jacket at all? I am actually very impressed with the jacket photo you have.. and I can't believe it is Linea.. I thought Cdiem is a much better cut but this one is NICE.
Yes.. the juicy definitely don't have the same intensity but for a fraction of the price... I guess if I am on a budget then that might have to be what I have to settle for.
Just bought a house and feeling the pain of the loan... :-)so can't spend too much on too expensive stuff.
So Atelier does not carry any leather jacket at all? I am actually very impressed with the jacket photo you have.. and I can't believe it is Linea.. I thought Cdiem is a much better cut but this one is NICE.
Yes.. the juicy definitely don't have the same intensity but for a fraction of the price... I guess if I am on a budget then that might have to be what I have to settle for.
Just bought a house and feeling the pain of the loan... :-)so can't spend too much on too expensive stuff.
