Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane (2000-2007)

[baklanyc]

In addition to Ann Demeulemeester i am also a fan of Dirk Schonberger and Xavier Delcour which i think would also be of interest to the Dior Homme 'persona'. Possibly Veronique Branquinho, too?

As for Christofer being 6'1" tall and having a 31" chest and 25.5" waist.. WTF? I'm 5'9" with a 34.5" chest, 27.5" waist and i wear a Dior Homme taille 46 or 44 now things are being cut larger. He must be a walking beanpole..?!!

I was wearing my Veronique tweeds today and I recalled that she cuts more generously than Dior Homme (her coats had narrower shoulders but rather roomy, boxy chests - I didn't feel they fit me right), and I was thinking that the person who might buy her stuff might be more of a Margiela customer, since they both have a more earthy aesthetic, as opposed to the hyper-slick Dior image.

And doo888, you make me feel absolutely obese at 5'7", 37" chest and 30" waist!

 

[EdK]

6'1 and 25 inch waist is really unhealthy. i'm 6'1 with a 32 inch waist and im skinny, that guy seriously is a walking beanpole.

 

[PrinceOfCats]

If they lied on his card and he's actually 5' 11" with a 26" waist (and very young) that could be perfectly healthy.

 

[Incroyable]

Dior Homme is the label that is going to be responsible for a slight but ultimately potent minority of male anorexics.

Which I take absolutely no offence to.

 

[PrinceOfCats]

Maybe they'll finally make trousers that fit me, eh...

 

[AlexN]

On the www.awronow.com cards, almost every guy has a 24 1/2" waistline.

It seems to me that some people may be getting this confused with jeans/pants "waist" measurements.

 

[Incroyable]

On the www.awronow.com cards, almost every guy has a 24 1/2" waistline.

It seems to me that some people may be getting this confused with jeans/pants "waist" measurements.

Yes, that is unusual.

It is simply not correct from proportions at looking at their photos.

 

[softgrey]

please stay on topic everyone...we are discussing the designs here...
nothing stops you from starting a topic on dior homme models in supporting cast section...

 

[Alejandro]

I definitely agree Soft

 

[raijin]

I actually like the 'more earthy' look of brands like linea and VB as opposed to Dior's slick look.

 

[baklanyc]

I actually like the 'more earthy' look of brands like linea and VB as opposed to Dior's slick look.

I agree, although it depends on my mood as well. Sometimes I prefer Dior, sometimes something more worn like linea, or Cloak.

 

[Chinor1z]

Well, Dior seems to have moved away from the 'slickness' of Luster and Strip, especially with this new grunge collection. I'm really quite excited to see the signature pieces of this season. Even if the overall collection ends up being easily copied via other means, those signature pieces really stand out above all.

 

[Incroyable]

Well, Dior seems to have moved away from the 'slickness' of Luster and Strip, especially with this new grunge collection. I'm really quite excited to see the signature pieces of this season. Even if the overall collection ends up being easily copied via other means, those signature pieces really stand out above all.

Although that herringbone trenchcoat was quite the delight.

 

[raijin]

What are the signature pieces for S/S 05?

I saw the safari jacket in Tokyo as part of the advance s/s 05 stock..
I still was not impressed at all, defintely not worth the price tag.
The millitary blazer was OK, but not worth $1700.

However, the double breasted blazer is reasonably nice, and because of the button detail - not easily copied.

 

[doo888]

What are the signature pieces for S/S 05?

The gold leather bomber would be the main one, along with the pink leather jacket. Possibly the pistachio tux jacket as well.

As for the 'slickness' that was Luster/Strip, i'd describe it as more 'aggressive' DH. Personally i found the slickness in Red/Reflection, F.Me was a kinda monastic romanticism before Luster and henceforth.

In the literal sense regarding the lacquered items in Luster & Strip... it was a defining moment for the brand and once again highlighted Hedi's talent, but the take was rather different from previous collections, so although it did wow me with all the amazing pieces, it also left me questioning how i would really wear tight lacquered pants etc. Strip was also rumoured to have not sold well at all, not surprising when you pair it with pricetags being at their peak.

VoTC was a commercially viable collection, but i remember the stir the collection caused over at the DH group when this was presented.. 'Arnault wants to meet his Eur1bn of sales target' etc. It was, IMO, the weakest collection to date and an even sharper turn than from F.Me to Luster, though now i appreciate the once again change in the DH's tone.

And alas, S/S '05, or should we dub it 'Beck'? (i guess the turn to more commercial lines results in the lack of defining name's for collections, a shame methinks) but anyway, i quite like it! I personally think it makes a great easy to wear summer wardrobe. It isn't as amazing as other collections, and yes, one can find all these items in a thrift store, but i guess this is the new DH. With some beautiful signature pieces + it was on the whole a lot better than VoTC!!

My more concerning gripes with the brand would be the slight decrease in quality in recent collections, the fact that items are being cut larger (arm holes, upper torso/back), increasing the size of the signature small shirt collar and 1.5" shirt cuff (just not the same anymore) and if all Christian Dior by Galliano products can be Made in France, why can't DH pieces be?! (Solitaire/Red aside).

Sorry for being so long winded. I like DH a lot haha.

 

[Acid]

for me, the signiature pieces for s/s05 HAVE TO BE........

the vest tops......heidi did about 20 different ones and they are so cute
the gold jacket.....as stated above
the length of the leather jackets.....they seem a lot shorter this season

the combo of.....white trainers, dirty blue jeans, white top and black jacket with any colour long scarf

the accesories seemed a bit few and far between so we'll have to wait and see with that

 

[raijin]

The only reason to buy something so thriftable, as stated by other tfs members,
is because of the details and quality. However, every season the quality has gotten lower, and it wasn't good for the price to start with.
There were some items that caught my eye.. but for that bad quality the pricing scheme is ridiculous.

Take for example the EXTREME quality difference between a Carpe Diem leather jacket and a Dior one of the same price.

 

[Chinor1z]

The only reason to buy something so thriftable, as stated by other tfs members,
is because of the details and quality. However, every season the quality has gotten lower, and it wasn't good for the price to start with.
There were some items that caught my eye.. but for that bad quality the pricing scheme is ridiculous.

Take for example the EXTREME quality difference between a Carpe Diem leather jacket and a Dior one of the same price.

Yes the quality has gone down... I noticed it especially in the t-shirts. I tried on the eye tee from this past season and it fit odd. The little things like the re-sewn seams, notched seam, or even a rounded back to the tees that were the signatures of seasons past are all gone. Now it's just a straightforward cut that is $300+!

As for the leather... is carpe diem better than dior? I always considered Dior leather to be quite nice! If it gets better than Dior then I'm all about it!

 

[raijin]

From seeing and feeling c diem in person, I can say that the tailoring as well as the leather is much better. I had to actually go see the pieces before I believed this though.

 

[runner]

How much are the kilts?

now you can see the kilts in grey and also red tartan on sale at Unted Arrows Harajuku. 40% off.
about $3000