But Chanel has bigger issues right now. While the spring collection was a creditable effort, it also highlighted the urgency of bringing back a creative vision for the $20 billion brand.
“It’s fundamental. It’s a way to project yourself into the future and to project the brand with a 360-degree vision. It’s about the design of the collections, but also the way you present them,” Pavlovsky said. “It’s important for all this to take shape again in the coming months.”
The executive previously said the Métiers d’Art show on Dec. 3, due to take place in Hangzhou, China, would be another in-house effort. He hedged when asked about the haute couture collection in January.
Coinciding with a period of upheaval at major luxury houses, the ongoing search has created a pressure-cooker atmosphere around Chanel. “There’s a lot of tension around designer transfers right now, and we’re really trying to stay above the fray,” Pavlovsky said.
While names including Simon Porte Jacquemus and Pieter Mulier have been touted for the job, the executive provided few hints.
“I’m not particularly looking for a big-name designer. I’m looking for someone who’s passionate about the brand as it stands today, and who wants to bring it into the future,” he said. “We need someone with a product-driven vision, as they are the true core of our brand.”
That brief brings up another perennially rumored candidate, Hedi Slimane, whose spring collection, unveiled online on Sunday, could be read as an audition reel, with its slick storytelling and overt nods to Gabrielle Chanel. “It’s an honor to see how Chanel continues to inspire,” Pavlovsky said.
As it seeks to recruit an external candidate for the first time in four decades, Chanel can’t be blamed for treading carefully. “It’s an important choice. This is not a short-term decision. We don’t want to have to change again in three years. We’re looking to build a long-term relationship,” he said.