Discussion: Who Should Be The Creative Director of Chanel?

[JohannesL]

I understand the different aesthetics things, but I think John at least has tried to adapt to Margiela even it is not very sucessful in the sense of design, so I think he still has potential to incorporate the Chanel codes into his work supposing we would say he is just doing Galliano.To defend myself, I don't think I am giving the answer of this thread. Instead, I am just guessing who is going to get the job. Regarding SPJ, I don't think he is on their radar even Michele waited and didn't get their call. But let's see and we will know soon.

 

[Kimihiro]

John can do Chanel obviously, with his talent alone. But his ethos as a designer is so far from Chanel, much farther than it is from Margiela. Dior was perfect for him.

What I want from Chanel is someone who can do elevated staples, but still have enough imagination to develop techniques, fabrics and silhouettes from time to time. I mean Karl did concrete embroideries, no? Hedi would’ve been perfect, but he’s not that adventurous. SPJ is the opposite, he could be adventurous but it veers on gimmicky, and his construction isn’t up to par.

 

[tourbillions]

elevated staples

this is not what their couture/vip clients go to chanel for. Not even for the embroidered staples... They want full on wedding dressess and ball gowns for their monaco/cannes/st tropez parties. Sure they have a lot of lower clients collecting tweed jackets and skirts but thats for their rtw business. Id like to think their rtw already sell on their own but what they're losing on with all these basic collections are their couture clients. Hedi will not satisfy their couture clients which viard already lost.

 

[LadyJunon]

Chanel's next steps by the words of Bruno Pavlovsky:
- They're looking for a designer with a product-driven 360-degree vision
- The MdA show on Dec. 3 in Hangzhou will be another in-house effort
- The fate of the direction of January HC show is TBC

But Chanel has bigger issues right now. While the spring collection was a creditable effort, it also highlighted the urgency of bringing back a creative vision for the $20 billion brand.

“It’s fundamental. It’s a way to project yourself into the future and to project the brand with a 360-degree vision. It’s about the design of the collections, but also the way you present them,” Pavlovsky said. “It’s important for all this to take shape again in the coming months.”

The executive previously said the Métiers d’Art show on Dec. 3, due to take place in Hangzhou, China, would be another in-house effort. He hedged when asked about the haute couture collection in January.

Coinciding with a period of upheaval at major luxury houses, the ongoing search has created a pressure-cooker atmosphere around Chanel. “There’s a lot of tension around designer transfers right now, and we’re really trying to stay above the fray,” Pavlovsky said.

While names including Simon Porte Jacquemus and Pieter Mulier have been touted for the job, the executive provided few hints.

“I’m not particularly looking for a big-name designer. I’m looking for someone who’s passionate about the brand as it stands today, and who wants to bring it into the future,” he said. “We need someone with a product-driven vision, as they are the true core of our brand.”

That brief brings up another perennially rumored candidate, Hedi Slimane, whose spring collection, unveiled online on Sunday, could be read as an audition reel, with its slick storytelling and overt nods to Gabrielle Chanel. “It’s an honor to see how Chanel continues to inspire,” Pavlovsky said.

As it seeks to recruit an external candidate for the first time in four decades, Chanel can’t be blamed for treading carefully. “It’s an important choice. This is not a short-term decision. We don’t want to have to change again in three years. We’re looking to build a long-term relationship,” he said.

WWD

 

[tourbillions]

how does the brief "im not particularly looking for a big-name designer" bring up hedi? they zero'd in on "product driven vision" and went home with it. All hints does not lead to hedi... they dont need a big name designer... they want someone who can stay for a long time... they want someone who can bring it to the future... all not hedi.

 

[Kimihiro]

They're looking for a designer with a product-driven 360-degree vision

We’re only thinking of one person right?

They’re playing coy to be honest.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I mean, one look at the Couture clients thread to know it‘s not that crazy difficult to come up with something those clients would want to buy - I think TFS mistakes the average Haute Couture customer to be somebody crazy educated as Valerie Steele, Andrew Bolton or Olivier Saillard - When you have all these speciality ateliers at your disposal, it's not crazy hard to come up with something that audience will be enchanted with. They buy the experience as much as the clothing itself and that will not change that quickly as the institution itself stands on a stable fundament - I have no doubt Chanel could keep on having a healthy business for a while without naming a successor, they can afford to wait for the right candidate.

That being said, the one thing that is NOT interchangeable is having an eye for finesse and taste. When I think of Jacquemus or J.W. Anderson, refinement is not exactly the thing I have in mind but with Hedi, yes. People mention about the stamina to pull through with so many collections - If anyone came to mind who could do it, it would probably be him with all that he put out for Celine.

 

[tourbillions]

it would probably be him with all that he put out for Celine.

he almost made no collections...

 

[Lola701]

People talks so much about Hedi but if I was Bruno Pavlovsky, if I want a very established designer, Phoebe and Riccardo are around…

I don’t know if Phoebe would handle the level of responsibility. But I know Riccardo would.
Plus at Chanel, he doesn’t have menswear to worry about.
He has already worked with a Parisian couture atelier and he shows up at events.

And he has very mature collections that proves that he can do serious clothes that looks modern.

What I will hate about his tenure is the celebrities he is associated with….

 

[helmutnotdead]

People talks so much about Hedi but if I was Bruno Pavlovsky, if I want a very established designer, Phoebe and Riccardo are around…

I don’t know if Phoebe would handle the level of responsibility. But I know Riccardo would.
Plus at Chanel, he doesn’t have menswear to worry about.
He has already worked with a Parisian couture atelier and he shows up at events.

And he has very mature collections that proves that he can do serious clothes that looks modern.

What I will hate about his tenure is the celebrities he is associated with….

mmm as I said, they really need someone sharp and focused. Riccardo ended up on rehab after his two tenures. He’s very talented but he’s not what they need.

 

[Lola701]

mmm as I said, they really need someone sharp and focused. Riccardo ended up on rehab after his two tenures. He’s very talented but he’s not what they need.

Don’t they all do at some point except for Nicolas and Hedi?
It’s true that Chanel is a job that require a quite healthy work/life balance.

Karl’s entire life was his job and Virginie had that healthy balance. Who are they designers that has that level of professionalism today and that are free agents?

If the suits were courageous, someone like Patrick van Ommeslaeghe would be on the list of potential candidates.

 

[helmutnotdead]

Don’t they all do at some point except for Nicolas and Hedi?
It’s true that Chanel is a job that require a quite healthy work/life balance.

Karl’s entire life was his job and Virginie had that healthy balance. Who are they designers that has that level of professionalism today and that are free agents?

If the suits were courageous, someone like Patrick van Ommeslaeghe would be on the list of potential candidates.

mmm there are a few designers that comes to my mind right now. obviously they're not the easiest choice but there are way more focused than Riccardo: Narciso, Tomas, Francisco, Ralph Rucci lol...

I've been thinking about Patrick: he's the candidate of my dreams. Probably the most talented one out there but the suits are not that clever. I spoke to him a few weeks ago and he told me that he's taking a break.

 

[Lola701]

mmm there are a few designers that comes to my mind right now. obviously they're not the easiest choice but there are way more focused than Riccardo: Narciso, Tomas, Francisco, Ralph Rucci lol...

I've been thinking about Patrick: he's the candidate of my dreams. Probably the most talented one out there but the suits are not that clever. I spoke to him a few weeks ago and he told me that he's taking a break.

Yes but Narciso and all you named would be too serious for Chanel.
They needs someone who has range. Despite their good taste, they are maybe too tasteful to play with all those elements.

Patrick would be good for Hermes actually. Or if LVMH didn’t messed things up, for a brand like Moynat.

I don’t know if he is in the radar of those executives unfortunately.
How ironic and sad that he was the most talented around RAF and that everybody but him got a big job!

 

[GivenchyAddict]

You mentioned Hermes but Patrick was doing Shangxia which is backed up by Hermes no ? So I wonder if it is more about him being fine this way or if there is something else.

I love Patrick and honestly Hermes or Chanel would have been amazing for sure.