Review by Suzy Menkes
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All the rave: Awesome excess
Suzy Menkes International Herald Tribune
FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 29, 2006
MILAN 'SexyBack' by Justin Timberlake blasted out of the speakers as power women dug spiked shoes into the Plexiglas runway, plastic corsets cinched black-clad bodies and fireworks of color and pattern exploded across the translucent set.
The pop singer summed up a spectacular Dolce & Gabbana show that crystallized in its devilish references to sexual provocation, S&M and to the towering designers of the newly fashionable 1980s just what is right and wrong about the Milan spring/summer 2007 season. The clothes may be provocative and striking, but all the references are looking back to find the future.
The workmanship and energy that Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana put into their show Thursday was breathtaking, from the shiny belts that circled tiny waists above short skirts, to denim worked with patent leather. Then there were the evening extravaganzas, where multicolored prints spread over butterfly wing sleeves.
Bathed in silver, touched with "Gold" (the name of the new restaurant the duo opened in Milan this week) and with shiny bags and vast buttonhole flowers, the effect was of awesome excess.
Yet from the powerful mêlée, where black and silver morphed into hot color, any fashion aficionado could have traced the roots of the ideas. They go back not just to the '80s club scene that is again all the rave, but also those triple titans of tough chic: Azzedine Alaia, Thierry Mugler and Gianni Versace. (Throw in John Galliano as a reference for a sculpted silver body piece that was somewhere between medieval armor and Marie Antoinette's panniers.)
Plenty of designers have been in on the 1980s revival, with its heady hedonism and dark undercurrent. But the design duo did it well. Their sassy little Alaia- esque dresses with short light skirts, or their calf- length dresses, fitted with multi-seaming, were of scrupulous workmanship. The latter, at least, was an interpretation of the Sicilian style that is Dolce & Gabbana's fashion homeland.
But where were those deep roots that have always given the collection its Sicilian sensuality? Compared with recent shows of romps in the southern Italian hay or even last season's witty riff on Napoleon and Josephine, why would such powerful designers move so far from their base? The 1980s revival is not enough of an excuse to reach back into the archives of other designers and muddy your own identity, especially when you have such a heritage.
