Gareth Pugh F/W 09.10 Paris

[disco54]

i think its quite beautiful , the pants are gorgeous and , last dress is stunning

 

[wongak]

love the coats and the pin coats and pants!

 

[JuiceMajor]

doesn't excites me and if i may be honest....this is all too Rick Owens.

 

[disco54]

i heard Dior is interested in him becoming creative director for Dior homme ...

http://www.viewonfashion.com/article/119-3090/GARETH-PUGH

 

[organic420]

He has had such a great momentum for the last few seasons, and i feel he has finally fallen flat...I am so disappointed in this collection....it just seems like a step back instead of forward...

 

[from: sophia]

So I like the clothes I think I prefer the video over the actual pics of the clothes. They are a little rick owens and to be honest I think S/S set my bar very very high. I still think it is ok I just think with his menswear and his past shows that they were much better.

 

[csmboy]

agreed.....in a time when designers should aim to stand out more, and create more of a unique viewpoint, he has become a pastiche of Rick Owens.....not good....

He has had such a great momentum for the last few seasons, and i feel he has finally fallen flat...I am so disappointed in this collection....it just seems like a step back instead of forward...

 

[masquerade]

aside from the makeup and hats, none of this seems avant garde or kooky or anything. rather bland and I agree with the Owens comments

Also, the sheer dress looks exactly like the ones Cavalli did

Two ends of the fashion spectrum putting the same look on the runway!

 

[ElectricAlyce]

The word 'compromise' isn't always a bad thing, especially if it leads to success. Because success means having enough money to continue to do what you love and you're good at, even if 20% of the time, you have to do some things you don't like doing.

I don't think that is the mentality Pugh is living by, and as I mentioned, I think it lies in his gothpunkclubkidlondon-mentality. It's better to hit hard and stand or fall than to sneak your way into the bizz.

Well, if he actually has gotten the job at DH then I guess he can afford to be artsy about his own line

 

[dior_couture1245]

I agree with Spike that some of this looks very Rick Owens. And to be totally honest, I think the clothes looked much better in the video than they did in the WWD pictures.

Hmm. I'm with tigerrouge on this one. While I do love the video, I don't think it was the smartest move to substitute it for a runway show. I think a lot of people underestimate the power of a runway show (Gareth, included, especially since he considers a model walking down the catwalk half a*sed). Yes, after weeks of dull, Bryant Park tent shows, and plain, blank sets, dull lighting and uninspiring lighting, runway shows begin to look outdated, unproductive and mind numbing. But so few designers really take advantage of what a runway show can be and do. Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, Antonio Marras, Karl Lagerfeld (for Chanel), Riccardo Tisci, to name a few, all understand that a runway show can be pumped up to create an atmosphere and mood that exudes excitement and enhances their vision.

I know budgets are tight right now, but Gareth still could have put on a great show without fireworks...I mean, he shows in PARIS! I'd love to see his clothes presented in some gorgeous, 18th century apartment...the contrast between his sci-fi clothes and the romanticism of French interiors would be so incredible!

 

[tigerrouge]

^^Yes, it would be the ideal set-up, if he's got the DH job and manages to stay there for a few years, though it's musical chairs at the moment - getting any design job is no guarantee of having it for long.

 

[esquire]

He has had such a great momentum for the last few seasons, and i feel he has finally fallen flat...I am so disappointed in this collection....it just seems like a step back instead of forward...

Well, I do as well.

I wished it had stopped on the video ! after seen the pictures I'm very disappointed , all the macabre shocking dramas were very early McQueen took me while to find it original and now when it translates to pseudo parisian ready-to-wear becomes very Rick Owens but not near as clever... oh dear..

All this blah blah blah on this thread about his non-conformist attitude is senseless now.

Pucci managed to be quirkier

 

[fashion.fashoff]

the more i look at these pieces the clumsier and more derivative they look

i was hoping maybe gp would become the thierry mugler figure for this generation...

 

[kasmslo]

Yessss!
I am SO glad we can see the whole collection (even if it's in a showroom )... I was so afraid we would just get that vague video!
I love this man and his designs. This is no exception!

 

[Merveille]

No good but in all honesty my hopes weren't up...
He seems like a one trick pony

 

[organic420]

No good but in all honesty my hopes weren't up...
He seems like a one trick pony

Yeah...I think that's one reason that it seems SOOOO bad to me is cuz I was expecting much more....
All black is the new boring!

(I just made that up; i like it!)

 

[chessmess]

i really dont get it
everyone was pressuring him to make his clothes more wearable and seperate and he did and now everyone is saying its bland
i think its his strongest yet
im so glad he did wide leg instead of the expensicted skinny

 

[Izreal]

i see Gareth Pugh as an interesting injection of quirkiness in the usually conservative platform of the Paris fashion week, however his neogothpunk bondage fetish predator meets hellraiser aestetic doesnt really appeal to me, nor do i find it particularly edgy. this being said, i admire him for his non compromising attitude and puristic vision. a conceptual short film instead of the usual runway medium, why not ?! people should get over it, i actually find it quite amusing how close minded and conventional fashion critics can be...

Yes he is in Paris, but Paris's charm is not reduced to its golden bridges, historic museums or 18th century buildings, there is also an underground side which Pugh clearly seems to be in contact with.. he's actually got his model walking down faubourg saint-martin, the warehouse district, out in the open in broad daylight , and far from the impossible to get in dark secret locations of the usual Paris chic venues, and for this alone the man deserves an award! yes a little bit of socialism in a otherwise corporately owned right-wing industry doesnt hurt. then again i-ve always felt closer in fashion to the antwerps 6 rebellious philosophy and output than the traditional avenue montaigne houses ( early DH under hedi being an exception ).

Speaking of DH, i feel LVMH has ruined the label with its quality and creative control, which is why Hedi left in the first place, so i am really skeptical in their interest with Gareth and vice versa? then again, maybe they realize the long time mistakes of their own greed, and hopefully desire to restore DH as a forward thinking industry leader as it once was..

 

[Scott]

i dunno why everyone is so up in arms about he doing a film either. i mean i'd rather much see that sort of alt. presentation to the staid catwalk. i find them boring,generally. i'd actually love to see gareth do a sort of installation/static presentation because i think that kind of mood would compliment his work really well.

as for the collection,i still quite like it. yes it's a bit owens/tisci/mcqueen/persoons-esque but i think he managed to twist those elements into his own aesthetic.

 

[LagerfeldBoy]

idk why but i find it dissapointing or maybe that's because SS09 was TOO GOOD so this seemed blah compared to that. at the end thought i just see it as an ok/good collection. From seeing past collections, i know he could've done a more impressive collection.