Gareth Pugh Mens F/W 09.10 Paris

[shirleebee]

This is amazing!

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Rick Owens Has A Rival...

Rick and and his wife Michelle are actually partners in Gareth's line. They do all the production and sales for him.

Some of this is good, some of this is not so good. Nothing in here Hedi didn't do in his fall Dior homme 2003 collection that wasn't done better.

 

[goldlion]

this is really really good.

 

[Scott]

i agree kiddo. i wish he would be a bit more straightforward rather than worrying with how he's going to surprise everyone with how he shows. the clothes themselves certainly would survive on a scaled down performance and atmosphere....he doesn't need all of that.

he should take a cue from jurgi persoons really. always dynamic but also quite pared down and simple his presentations were....and he allowed the clothes to speak for him.

 

[MulletProof]

wow.. I feel like everyone was giving that Rick Owens' look-alike collection and someone posted only Les Hommes for me . this is incredibly tacky.. I can only picture these pieces on a major poseur trying to look all tough and demeulemeester-esque and buying everything in the wrong size and cheap material.

 

[dancorpse]

OMG,he's the God! Love love the collection!

 

[Bengt]

I love this collection!
The outerwear is amazing!
Those ripped up tank tops and trousers is to die for!

 

[prettypouf]

I love this so much-- it's completely new and it looks masculine and clean in a kind of scary way.

 

[shirleebee]

I like the post-apocalyptic warrior feel of this, Rick's, and (N)umber Nine's collections.

 

[Inaya]

I think he's evolving in the right direction...I agree that the outerwear is outstanding, beautifully constructed!! I'm not crazy about the stylings, sometimes things get a bit too apocalyptic costumey as were some of his previous shows (That's the difference from the Rick Owens show)...But overall, it's worth the hype. It only heightens the expectation for his next outing.
I love this look in particular, straight to the point and less gimmicky

catwalking

I love that too!!!

I agree he is evolving in the right direction, as well. And I agree with you and Scott about the styling / costume / amatuerish effect... but since this collection is SUCH a departure from his women's SS09 show... I have to wonder if perhaps he's giving Paris and the ppl who haven't followed his menswear thus far, a little introductory to who he is, has been and where he's come from. I'm willing to bet we'll see a big evolution from this season to his spring one, when the time comes, and that his next show will be better edited and more refined.


btw - his work is produced at Olmar + Mirta, Rick Owens and Michele Lamy's factory - and is also funded in part by them, so not only is he not hurting in that way, his work is beautifully constructed by the same ppl who do Rick's lines, Nicolas & Mark, etc.

I always see people saying his stuff looks cheap - but I own one of these patent leather triangle pattern jackets and the construction is actually amazing. The triangles are just on the outer layer (out of 3 layers) of fabric. It's basically a fully lined wool blazer, and has the patent triangles sewn onto the exterior. I have to admit, you can't tell this from photos - but truly, his stuff is not cheap... it's actually a hundred times better in person and he always has amazing patterns on the lining and things like that as well.

 

[cesarcmma]

^^Your jacket is amazing ...and for what you said his pieces don't look cheap and I truly believe you......I still don't own any of his stuff but something of this collection will definetly be in my wardrobe

and the look kiddokiddo posted is my favorite too

 

[Anjo]

It was a solid collection which struck a good balance between freakish and wearable (I even liked the music!) but I wish he'd put in some color. I know everyone thinks black is very avant-garde but really, when you have too much of it, it's just boring. Hopefully in the future he'll move beyond monotones.

 

[Anjo]

There's some buzz that Pugh might be hired by LVMH, http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/...-garde-Gareth-Pugh-be-in-the-LVMH-sights.html

Hmm, what LVMH brand needs some new creative direction for its menswear?
Thoughts?

 

[SHYE_POSER]

overall its nothing we havent seen in his womens collections(where he often had men modelling in anyway) a lot of the jkts,coats,trs are all the same as what he has done for women but with a gun metal rather than black pvc...
on the other hand the spiked pieces are fantastic!..i just want 2 see something he has designed for the men rather than male interpretations of his womenswear....

 

[SHYE_POSER]

There's some buzz that Pugh might be hired by LVMH, http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/...-garde-Gareth-Pugh-be-in-the-LVMH-sights.html

Hmm, what LVMH brand needs some new creative direction for its menswear?
Thoughts?

as we know he is working with rick owens and his wife ..as they take care of his production...but rumour had it that he was interviewed for dior homme...............

 

[SHYE_POSER]

I love that too!!!

I agree he is evolving in the right direction, as well. And I agree with you and Scott about the styling / costume / amatuerish effect... but since this collection is SUCH a departure from his women's SS09 show... I have to wonder if perhaps he's giving Paris and the ppl who haven't followed his menswear thus far, a little introductory to who he is, has been and where he's come from. I'm willing to bet we'll see a big evolution from this season to his spring one, when the time comes, and that his next show will be better edited and more refined.


btw - his work is produced at Olmar + Mirta, Rick Owens and Michele Lamy's factory - and is also funded in part by them, so not only is he not hurting in that way, his work is beautifully constructed by the same ppl who do Rick's lines, Nicolas & Mark, etc.

I always see people saying his stuff looks cheap - but I own one of these patent leather triangle pattern jackets and the construction is actually amazing. The triangles are just on the outer layer (out of 3 layers) of fabric. It's basically a fully lined wool blazer, and has the patent triangles sewn onto the exterior. I have to admit, you can't tell this from photos - but truly, his stuff is not cheap... it's actually a hundred times better in person and he always has amazing patterns on the lining and things like that as well.

i totally agree with u...as i had worked with gareth in his studio about a year or so ago i can truly say hat the workmanship and quality is all there! and that is the stuff being made by hand by the studio team...so i can imagine the manufactured pieces would be of an even higher standard!

 

[jhaime]

While i don't understand the comparison to Rick Owens on this board, i certainly don't feel this comes close to what Rick sent down the runway.

Also a little dumbfounded with such a positive reaction; was this really better than Rick, Damir & julius?

This is an exceptionally constructed collection, containing meticulous detail, composing of some illustrious fabric combinations; the coats & robes are serious stand-outs, but i don't think i'll be throwing £3000 at them.

Gareth is being hailed as the new messiah/king of menswear?

he hasn't explored volume, transitional form, most potently movement within the line, such as Rick so eloquently pulled off.

tare away the embellishments & bravado, what are we really left with here? sliced trousers, neo-goth boots...i don't think buyers are as likely to carry this as they are with the womens.

There's a huge media juggernaut championing Gareths Pughs every move at present; as stark as his collections are & as powerful an image they portray, i'm not likely to be submerged in the frenzy any time soon.

 

[SHYE_POSER]

*Getting teary*

He has always translate directly from his womenswear to his menswear, only this time, it looked SO much better!
"Better" = more varieties and more wearable.

I'm not gonna compare it to rick owen's, as I think this is just another ball game, so different. No point comparing
LOVE IT!

he has never really done menswear before...merely a few looks within his womens collections when he wa showing in london..

 

[cesarcmma]

I know the link is already here but...

Could London's avant garde Gareth Pugh be in the LVMH sights?

Delphine Arnault, daughter of Bernard Arnault, who rules the LVMH luxury goods empire, (think Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton et al) attended Gareth Pugh's latest menswear collection and set tongues wagging about his future designs...



It takes a lot to persuade the beautiful, blonde heiress to one of France’s, if not the world’s largest luxury fashion conglomerates to forego a leisurely Sunday night at home in favour of a trek through cold, grim, rain-swept streets in order to see a fashion show.
But such is the current stock of the Sunderland-born, London-based designer Gareth Pugh, 27, that even Delphine Arnault, daughter of Bernard Arnault, who rules the LVMH luxury goods empire (think Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, Kenzo et al), was persuaded to leave hearth and home last night to sit in the front row of his show in Paris which started nearly one hour late at 10pm.
The show was Pugh’s menswear debut, the last post in a menswear season for fall/winter 09/10, which has, with a few exceptions – Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Raf Simons at Jil Sander, John Galliano – left fashion critics decidedly short on superlatives.
Pugh, however, left his audience of top-flight press and buyers amazed and astounded with a visionary collection which managed to blend chivalric chain-mail and Mad Max motocross inspirations into an exciting new leap forward for contemporary menswear.
“Beautiful, amazing,” said Mme Arnault as she fought her way through the crowd, with her husband, to congratulate Gareth Pugh backstage, where she was joined by Daphne Guinness and Dazed and Confused magazine’s founder, Jefferson Hack.
Pugh’s collection, paraded in the concrete bunker which is the Palais de Tokyo, around a spinning mobile of triangular shards of mirror, was decidedly not for Everyman, being, largely, based upon the kind of clothes this son of a policeman likes to wear himself.
There was a strong anti-Establishment feel to the collection, primarily tailored, with deft precision, in leather, PVC, wool and fur. Trousers were tight to the point of being, almost, tights. Jackets were bum-freezer length. DJ-tailoring was taut and matador-inspired. Coats were militaristic in a diamond-quilted patchwork of leather and wool, heavy on epaulette, yoke, buckle, strap and belted hardware.
Decorations were hand-embroidered from thousands upon thousands of 1 1/4in nails or 16mm ‘carpet tacks’, which lent an armorial feel to some coats and tops and a glittering, sea-urchin-like surface texture to T-shirts and loose, tabard-like over-throws. Silver-mesh tunics, with deep cowl necks, coiled around the throat in the manner of warriors, added to the knights-in-shining armour reference.
Paired with black, denim jeans, systematically and horizontally sliced and shredded from groin to Achilles tendon, the effect was uncompromising, confrontational and aggressive.
The tough mood was enforced with platform-soled, mid-calf and knee-high leather and patent boots, emblazoned with nine rows of straps and buckles. But there were odd moods of softness and historic romance, too, in the mixed-length tunics in fox and goat-hair, or suede, sashed like doublets, and always in the pervading colour palette of steel-grey or black, and, too, in the 'savage' head-dresses, in black crow feathers, designed by London's award-winning milliner, Stephen Jones.
Pugh has a short history in fashion. A former ballet dancer and student of costume design, he graduated from Central St Martins in London in 2003, made a brief appearance at Fashion East in 2005 and was a London Fashion Week star for several seasons between 2006 and 2008, albeit working from an under-heated warehouse in Dalston, illuminated by building site lights. Kylie Minogue, Marilyn Manson and Beyoncé Knowles all wear his designs and he has gathered mentoring and support from the California-based designer, Rick Owens, who shares his gothic sensibilities.
Winning the prestigious French government-backed ANDAM prize, worth Euros 150,000 last year, provided the funds for his decision to show, firstly, his most recent women’s wear collection – a chessboard spectacular in black-and-white, cut with surgical precision – and, now his first menswear collection, in Paris.
The word is out that someone very big wants to harness his talent, because it could be just the spark to reignite a moribund menswear market.
Watch this space because Pugh could very well be about to take off.

telegraph.co.uk

 

[cesarcmma]

Ther's also a video....and the kid at 00:14 is wearing one of Gareth star shirts....*ENVY*