Hedi Slimane exits Saint Laurent; Anthony Vaccarello hired

[fashionista-ta]

^ I don't know about iconic, but he certainly represents the triumph of marketing over talent. Would it be possible if there weren't such a large number of sheep, I mean consumers, obsessed with what's 'cool' and 'it'? He certainly taps into something ... something that doesn't exist in my brain or personality, which makes it difficult for me to comprehend.

I will say that I absolutely wouldn't wish YSL on Alber. Had his original tenure not been disturbed--great. Or perhaps if he'd gone back after Pilati. But at this point, management is thrilled apparently with the direction that's been set, which has nothing to do with him & would give him no scope whatsoever. I don't think there's enough time for the pendulum to swing, and then for him to step in ... I don't know that he'll have the longevity of Karl or Oscar (though of course I certainly hope so). Better for him to open his own house. Though (as is no secret ) I loved what he did at Lanvin, he's already done the heritage brand revival--no need to do that again.

 

[MyNameIs]

Good riddance. As wrong as I think Vacarello would be, he literally cannot be any worse than Hedi.

 

[Marc10]

^ I don't know about iconic, but he certainly represents the triumph of marketing over talent. Would it be possible if there weren't such a large number of sheep, I mean consumers, obsessed with what's 'cool' and 'it'? He certainly taps into something ... something that doesn't exist in my brain or personality, which makes it difficult for me to comprehend.

But I really don't think that the maskething blinded the consumer. What his marketing brilliantly did was to create an atmosphere, an universe that complement his clothes and gave them a certain narrative and allure. But at the end of the day, Hedi did great clothes with great quality that people felt great in it. It wasn't a Vetements scenario where 99% of the people buying the clothes are doing to make people think they're cool. Saint Laurent is an extremely convertible brand, you can buy into it in many different ways. There was the more flashy, trendy stuff that mostly young people bought, but there also a very large part of his clothes that was just traditional, extremely well made tailoring and day wear pieces that a more conservative costumer would look great in it. And that was the key of his success.

 

[HeatherAnne]

Good riddance. As wrong as I think Vacarello would be, he literally cannot be any worse than Hedi.

I don't think that's a safe bet to make.

 

[Fashionstuff]

But I really don't think that the maskething blinded the consumer. What his marketing brilliantly did was to create an atmosphere, an universe that complement his clothes and gave them a certain narrative and allure. But at the end of the day, Hedi did great clothes with great quality that people felt great in it. It wasn't a Vetements scenario where 99% of the people buying the clothes are doing to make people think they're cool. Saint Laurent is an extremely convertible brand, you can buy into it in many different ways. There was the more flashy, trendy stuff that mostly young people bought, but there also a very large part of his clothes that was just traditional, extremely well made tailoring and day wear pieces that a more conservative costumer would look great in it. And that was the key of his success.

Agree.
And , yes, his tenure, was iconic. I loved the clothes he did and his shows were great.
Sincerely, i would like to see him in Dior.

Vaccarello will ruin all what Hedi has succeeded in this 4 years.

Miles Socha write :
Source : WWD.com

Today’s announcement is sure to speed the naming of Slimane’s successor, widely expected to be Anthony Vaccarello — and possibly in time for the spring 2017 shows in Paris this fall.

WWD first reported on Jan. 13 that Vaccarello was the frontrunner to succeed Slimane, who had failed to reach an agreement on a new employment pact at Saint Laurent.

From same article
Source : WWD.com

Vaccarello would join one of the fastest-growing fashion houses in Europe.

In the fourth quarter, revenues at Saint Laurent catapulted 37.4 percent to 287 million euros, or $318.2 million, a 27.4 percent gain stripping out the impact of currencies.

Saint Laurent recorded revenues of 974 million euros, or $1.08 billion, last year with a network of 142 stores — far fewer locations than mega brands such as Gucci, Dior, Chanel or Louis Vuitton.

Thomas Chauvet, luxury analyst at Citi, downplayed the impact of Slimane’s exit on the brand’s future performance, arguing its growth prospects and potential for margin expansion remain intact.

In a research note on Friday, Chauvet said the brand registered its highest operating margin ever in the second half of 2015 — approximately 20 percent — and this should rise on scale effects, more leather goods sales, pricing, maturity of the store network and “better absorption of fixed costs.”

Citi estimates Saint Laurent should contribute 15 percent of group sales and 12 percent of earnings before interest and taxes growth over the next three years, up from 8 percent and 9 percent at present.

 

[dsamg]

Well there's something they have in common right there

Trashy to trashier, is what I'm thinking ...

I wonder if Hedi could be going to do Chanel Homme??

Probably to Forever New where his designs belong.

 

[mistress_f]

I don't think that's a safe bet to make.

lol i know right? i honestly can't believe he's actually the front runner for this. I could maybe *maybe* see him working well at versace once donatella steps down, but at SL? do they really hate yves's legacy that much? i just can't wrap my head around it lol.

 

[perhydrol]

What about Raf at YSL? That would be great, I mean his first collections had that Yves's spirit with all those tuxedos so he wouldn't be as extreme as Vaccarello in a way.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

I completely forgot about Decarnin. He would be fabulous!

 

[haydn]

I don't know if Kering realizes, but a vast majority of sales were directly associated with Hedi. His fan base as a designer is unlike anything I've seen before on fashion. Wherever he goes, the money will follow. I would not want to be the designer that has to follow him!

 

[saucer-like]

I'm not really thrilled by this news. Saint Laurent has actually grown on me and I appreciate that Hedi really made his mark during his tenure which is what I'd expect when they bring on a new creative director. With Vaccarello or someone equally dull at the helm, I can see this brand losing its impact and becoming another filler show on the PFW schedule.

I would love to see Hedi at Dior. If any house needs a kick in the pants and rebranding it's them. Anything would be better than those soulless gowns that they've been churning out.

 

[Spike413]

His tenure was so iconic, honestly. When you look at the big picture and how he took this semi-irrelevant brand and completely tuned on its head, made it the most relevant and influential brand in the business is pretty incredible. He set the blueprint for brand revamping from now on. Gonna miss his work there, the great clothes, the brilliant marketing... and the hate lol.

For him now is either Dior, Chanel, or he got funding for his own brand. Like i've said before, Chanel would be amazing. Now only I because i'm counting the days for Karl to hang his glasses and gloves, but the brand desperately needs a strong new direction and he's the guy for it. But even if he'll do it, I don't think it will happen anytime soon. They'll probably be grooming him for another year or so and will try to make the transition as smooth as possible and give Karl the time to have a big farewell.

Totally agree. Whether you loved it, hated it or were entirely indifferent toward it, nobody can deny that the energy around the house was palpable.

If nothing else, the fact that there was always a sense of something bigger going on with Slimane's vision for the brand -- that it was more than just the sum of its pieces -- hit home with me after a little bit of time. I'll miss his commitment to his vision, the thoroughness of it, even if I didn't always go crazy for the results. And the fact of the matter is that, in spite of the fact that I'm not particularly suited to the Saint Laurent men's look, I've always wanted in. I've always wanted at least a piece or two.

 

[george5]

Other thing I forgot to add yesterday, regarding YSL's new course and alongside the possible candidates is: What will happen with the Couture house ? Will they close it when They launched it just a few months ago ? If They pretend to keep that business going then I think Vacarello wouldn't be a good choice and one person right now who could do both is Raf; He (sort of) understands how that works and YSL through his eyes is quite interesting to me, both have in common this Neoplasticist sense of color and fixation for Pop art so It could suit Raf's own style

 

[IndigoHomme]

Maybe sounds crazy, but Hedi in Costume National will make cool stuff

 

[haydn]

I really hope he doesn't take 5 years off like he did between Dior and Chanel. Fashion needs more people who care as much as he does... Could you imagine if every brand operated in a way did at YSL? Fashion today is all about the bottom line, there is no denying that. But what Hedi did had a soul... from packaging to store design to medi to clothing, it was all a single vision that was perfectly executed. In a way what he did is a masteclass on how to run a brand. I only wish others followed this example!

Hedi at Chanel would be a dream come true.. There is nobody in fashion today with his work ethic or vision.

 

[Nomar]

It's like some kind of advanced game of musical chairs, where you can't hear the music

Wonderfully put.

 

[FND74]

Hedi for Zara!

 

[Fashionstuff]

I really hope he doesn't take 5 years off like he did between Dior and Chanel. Fashion needs more people who care as much as he does... Could you imagine if every brand operated in a way did at YSL? Fashion today is all about the bottom line, there is no denying that. But what Hedi did had a soul... from packaging to store design to medi to clothing, it was all a single vision that was perfectly executed. In a way what he did is a masteclass on how to run a brand. I only wish others followed this example!

Hedi at Chanel would be a dream come true.. There is nobody in fashion today with his work ethic or vision.

I hope too.
Would like to see him in Dior , because i don't believe Karl will leave his place for Hedi in this time.

Vaccarello and couture collections... i can't imagine he can do it. I can't imagine Vaccarello doing SL.
I don't like what he does for Versus and for his own brand. Trashy clothes...

So sag about Hedi's exiting....

 

[Sweet rus]

I couldn't be happier. I have nothing against Hedi elsewhere but for me he destroyed YSL (even if it did well in terms of sales). It has never looked so tragic. How was the house irrelevant? I loved Pilati at YSL and loved Tom.

 

[t-rex]

What do you guys make of the decision to keep the name of YSL Beauty, and not change it to Saint Laurent Beauty? There was an article a while ago that said Hedi wanted control over the beauty brand and its renaming but it was being kept separate from him. Did Kering feel that Hedi's vision did not fit the makeup brand? Would it cost too much to revamp all their products, which still have the layered YSL logo?