Hedi Slimane exits Saint Laurent; Anthony Vaccarello hired

[Fashionstuff]

I think Dior needs someone more talented design-wise. He better stays away from womenswear. He is one trick pony and I'm honestly so tired of his vision. And Dior Homme was so iconic under him that I wouldn't try to recreate it again.

I adore him, but he is not suited for a couture house. He should try to build his own label. Hedi, unlike Tom Ford, is still cool and it would be a success for sure.

Yes ,his own label will have success. But it could be interesting to see how-and if he could reinvent Dior women and Couture. ( there were no rumors at all about Hedi will go to Dior that's why i don't think he will go there but it could be really interesting and it could be a new challenge for him)
Dior started to be little bit boring under Raf's tenure ,IMO. I wasn't Raf's fan - and i'm not a fan of the actual duo from team.

 

[Fashionstuff]

^ Tom Ford has been a success too, but I mean success in a fashion way. I think if he puts all his efforts, he could build a cult similar to Lang's. He seems very focused and has a very unique vision.

Sure.
He has so many fans all around the world. I'm not sure that they were his fans only because of Saint Laurent.
Tom Ford clothes are too expensive, yes, he does a great stuff but honestly,is a little bit overpriced. And i'm not a fan of denim skirt with mink, i think it was Ford's creation?

 

[Lola701]

^ Tom Ford has been a success too, but I mean success in a fashion way. I think if he puts all his efforts, he could build a cult similar to Lang's. He seems very focused and has a very unique vision.

And i still find Tom cool too. I think that he could learn one thing from Slimane: not giving a f***. As much as Slimane was a dreadful womenswear designer, the fact that he didn't cared about the critics showed great confidence and increased the cult around him. Without being an outsider, he was like a real rebel in a fashion system and it became a great retail success.

Tom has been successful and IMO is a much better designer than Slimane but it is always seems a bit weird to see someone so successful trying to "please" everybody. Like Slimane, he is a powerful leader while being outsider, i expect fom him to only do what he wants to do but i suppose that when you're working with Roitfeld, you're kinda obliged to "follow".

Back to Slimane: yes he can be the next Helmut Lang (in terms of cult not talent or fashion). He can also be the creative director of Helmut Lang. He knows one thing or two about denim, practicality, perfume and minimal campaigns...

He can start his own line but maybe something more like Rick Owens, Visvim or Acne rather than something big à la Saint Laurent/Dior. He doesn't seems to be the type who start small to go big. He needs a structure...

 

[IndigoHomme]

Anthony Vaccarello appointed creative director at Yves Saint Laurent

Anthony Vaccarello has been officially named as new creative director at Yves Saint Laurent, taking over from Hedi Slimane, who left the post April 1. The designer will show his first collection during Paris Fashion Week in October, for Spring/Summer 2017.
The Kering group has just announed that Anthony Vaccarello will take the reins at Yves Saint Laurent, succeeding Hedi Slimane as creative director after he left the role vacant April 1. After cutting his teeth at Fendi alongside Karl Lagerfeld, Vaccarello has headed up his own house since 2009. He won the Andam prize in 2011 and has been creative director for Versus Versace since January 2015, creating two collections for the Versace sister line. The designer is known for flesh-baring sexy silhouettes in his signature black and we’re expecting him to bring the same sensual and graphic approach to his first collection for Yves Saint Laurent in October, at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2017.

En savoir plus sur http://en.vogue.fr/fashion/fashion-...-yves-saint-laurent/37098#Twx9QslXEAKcxvfM.99

source: Vogue Paris http://bit.ly/1S3vqNr

 

[Marc10]

LONDON, United Kingdom — As widely speculated, Anthony Vaccarello has been appointed creative director of Yves Saint Laurent. Yves Saint Laurent and Kering confirmed the news in a joint statement today. On Sunday, Versace announced that Vaccarello had left his role as creative director of Versus Versace, hot on the heels of Hedi Slimane’s exit from Yves Saint Laurent.

“I am extremely happy to have Anthony Vaccarello take the creative helm of Yves Saint Laurent," said Francesca Bellettini, President and CEO of Yves Saint Laurent. "His modern, pure aesthetic is the perfect fit for the maison. Anthony Vaccarello impeccably balances elements of provocative femininity and sharp masculinity in his silhouettes. He is the natural choice to express the essence of Yves Saint Laurent. I am enthusiastic about embarking on a new era with Anthony Vaccarello, and together bringing the maison further success.”

François-Henri Pinault, chairman and CEO of Kering, added: “I am very proud to welcome such a vivid and young force among today’s creative fashion talents to Yves Saint Laurent. Anthony Vaccarello’s unique style will greatly express the maison’s creative signature and fashion authority, building on the brand’s solid foundations, and further developing it to realise its full potential. Together with the entire Yves Saint Laurent team, Anthony Vaccarello will strongly contribute to the maison’s growing accomplishments.”

“Mr Saint Laurent is a legendary figure for his creativity, style and audacity," said Vaccarello. "I am extremely grateful for the opportunity to contribute to the history of this extraordinary house.”

Vaccarello is not the only Versus designer to graduate to a major house. Jonathan Anderson joined the brand in 2013, shortly before he was appointed creative director of Loewe.

Alongside his role at Versus, Belgian-born Vaccarello has overseen his eponymous label. His sexuality-laced collections of slashed and laced-up mini skirts, cleavage-bearing suit jackets worn over corsets and shiny black leather outerwear, with what BoF editor-at-large Tim Blanks described as a "single-mindedness" of approach somewhat comparable to Hedi Slimane's at Saint Laurent.

Nonetheless, Slimane’s are big shoes to fill. In his four years as creative and image director of Yves Saint Laurent, Slimane’s grunge-soaked collections of bomber jackets, skinny jeans and minidresses saw the business post €974 million (just over $1 billion) in sales revenue, up from €707 million in 2014. According to Sanford C. Bernstein, from 2012 to 2014, Saint Laurent revenues grew more than 20 percent each year, outperforming the overall market for luxury goods.

What will become of Vaccarello’s eponymous label is not known. Attempts to access its website today yielded an error message.

Vaccarello’s successor at Versus Versace has not yet been announced. On Sunday, Donatella Versace told The New York Times that she will be “surprising everybody” with her choice.

businessoffashion

 

[Creative]

And i still find Tom cool too. I think that he could learn one thing from Slimane: not giving a f***. As much as Slimane was a dreadful womenswear designer, the fact that he didn't cared about the critics showed great confidence and increased the cult around him. Without being an outsider, he was like a real rebel in a fashion system and it became a great retail success.

I think Tom Ford is a little bit lost in a way. His brand and has a strong image when it comes to accessories and perfumes, but his fashion lacks... fashion, strengh, now factor... And I'm pretty sure he won't get it now after so many years. Of course there must be nice pieces in his shops, but I think his fashion project failed cause he didn't have a vision for it from the beginning. He has been contradicting himself every season and people stopped taking him seriously.

Yes ,his own label will have success. But it could be interesting to see how-and if he could reinvent Dior women and Couture. ( there were no rumors at all about Hedi will go to Dior that's why i don't think he will go there but it could be really interesting and it could be a new challenge for him)
Dior started to be little bit boring under Raf's tenure ,IMO. I wasn't Raf's fan - and i'm not a fan of the actual duo from team.

I get what you mean, but I'm quite positive his vision for Dior would not be very different from what he did at YSL. Actually, his vision for YSL was the womenswear version of Dior Homme. When it comes to Hedi, you now what you'll have. That's good and that's bad at the same time. He's obsessed with his obsolete idea of what young people wear, and he will keep doing that. I'm not sure I could bear 6 collections a year with the same aesthetic and hundreds of campaigns in B&W.

 

[Lola701]

Donatella should just close Versus and be totally commited to Versace. Everytime, Kering and LVMH are "stealing" her designers (Kane, Anderson and now Vaccarello).

Vaccarello for YSL? I'll wait. He is so hyped in Paris that i believe that the french press is loving the idea already.
He is a one trick pony but as he worked with Karl, i have so type of hope.

At least, he will have to use colors now...

 

[Marc10]

Honestly I feel bad for this guy. They're hiring him because he sorta of a similar style to Hedi, and Kering will be breathing down his neck for him to copy everything Hedi did and keep up the sales, which will obviously not happen. He make it to season 3 it will be a surprise.

The only good thing I can say is that it's nice to see another homegrown talent taking over a big house. The French guys (and gal) finally ended the Brits domination. *edit* Oh wait he's Belgian. Well, French speaking then haha.

 

[Creative]

This reminds me of Alex at Balenciaga. Absurd choice. Six seasons and he'll be out. Just wonder who will replace him.

 

[george5]

Sounds like a palate cleanser, to be honest. I've always been indifferent to Vacarello's designs so I can't say much about this and I can certainly see coming Tuxedo jackets turned into mini-dresses with cut-outs but I'll give give the benefit of the doubt as I always do.

 

[jeanclaude]

What can I expect to see at YSL now?? Black leather asymmetric mini-dresses and mini-skirts with metallic details...rinse and repeat!

For god´s sake...why they don´t look for an interesting designer out there?? Someone who actually designs, for a change! Not another cheap stylist!

So many fashion schools worldwide...to get this?? Nonsense!

 

[birdofparadise]

There was no way that Kering was completely comfortable with the runaway success of Saint Laurent especially at the expensive of Gucci.

Once they began making fast changes at Gucci, the tension no doubt heightened. Slimane wanted Saint Laurent to be the biggest and the baddest in the bouquet, flaunting his connection to the pugnacious Berge, to Catroux, hell even to Moujik. As outrageous as many considered his designs, his connections were solid, his access to the archives unparalleled. I believe he wanted to bring all disconnected elements (the beauty business, couture) together again in order to make the overall message even stronger, to make the house even bigger. Kering, in a sense, created this monster and, perhaps, had no choice but to subdue it for the sake of a Gucci on the rebound, if one takes the view that Gucci should be the strongest in Kering.

YSL, like Slimane, deserves to be independent.

 

[mistress_f]

LMAO i still can't believe anthony vaccarello is actually at the helm of saint laurent

this is way worse than alexander wang could ever be. i can't even take the news seriously

 

[GreyVetiver]

Now I wonder who Donatella will pick. Guesses?

 

[Marc10]

I assume he's doing the Menswear too?

 

[Steddycam91]

Now I wonder who Donatella will pick. Guesses?

I could see Olivier Rousteing taking over Versace one day.

 

[liberty33r1b]

I'll wait and see how it goes with vaccarello. at least hedi's out, what he did to this fashion house is unforgivable

 

[Creative]

Now I wonder who Donatella will pick. Guesses?

Emilio de la Morena, Simone Rocha, David Koma, Jacquemus, Altuzarra, Hood by Air, Thomas Tait... I don't know.

 

[mistress_f]

I'll wait and see how it goes with vaccarello. at least hedi's out, what he did to this fashion house is unforgivable

it can only go downhill from here though. i was never a fan of what hedi did, but he is capable of doing nice things when he wants to (the l.a. colleciton and bits and pieces of other collections being a proof). mr same sl*tty dress season after season, though...

 

[TREVOFASHIONISTO]

His tenure was so iconic, honestly. When you look at the big picture and how he took this semi-irrelevant brand and completely tuned on its head, made it the most relevant and influential brand in the business is pretty incredible. He set the blueprint for brand revamping from now on. Gonna miss his work there, the great clothes, the brilliant marketing... and the hate lol.

i completely agree, and he could even be put on the same pedestal as Phoebe Philo in terms of brand revamping. I was very mixed when it came to what he was doing, but I will admit that deep down i wanted to be in his clothes even if I couldnt understand the pricing behind it. He is an amazing marketer, and he knew exactly what he was doing. The last YSL collection i remember before him was S/S 2009, but Hedi had SL in everyone's mouths. I mean I finally got some of his Chelsea boots for a Christmas gift, and its probably the best shoe I've ever owned