Hedi Slimane exits Saint Laurent; Anthony Vaccarello hired

[dcmaike]

This all still makes absolutely no Sense for me: Hedi was damn successfull with his work, yes he destroyed what YSL stood for before but at least he had a vision, why do they take this risk and hire Someone like Vacarello? It's like Raf Simmons at Moschino, Elie Saab at Prada or Alexander Wang at Valentino, it just does not fit/work.

 

[MulletProof]

That Harvard article...

Living near the financial district and having to cross paths with thick ties and oversized suits all the time, I have wondered too how would you dissuade someone that simply does not care. Thankfully Umair's figured it all out.. the Steve Jobs of fashion, the Stephen Hawking of socks, somewhere in page 20,781 of the Panama Papers, Hedi Slimane: the Dow Jones heavyweight you've never heard of .. anything to cater to the fashion-resistant heart of an economist (or at least their weekend attention).

[redacted]

The only downside of Vaccarello going in is that.. well.. if it had been someone like Lutz Huelle for instance, the shallow, old-fashioned, petulant, basic stylist notion of womenswear that Hedi from his first show to the last one would've been magnified and remained undebatable. Instead, someone like Vaccarello makes it seem like f*cking Gerhard Richter has just abandoned the building.. so now we'll have to inhale "the myth, the legend" talk and Saint Laurent by Hedi nostalgia from years to come, just like Dior Homme. We're already doing it, so many 'let's just admit that he revolutionized the system'.. and no, he didn't.

 

[fashionista-ta]

How i wrote before, i would like to see Slimane doing Dior womenswear inkl. Couture ect. but if the impossible happens and Slimane will really replace Karl? Sincerely, i can't imagine that Karl will leave Chanel but there are also more rumors- that Hedi maybe-would- go to Chanel!?! Who knows.. i hope Hedi will go first to Dior without taking a pause and waiting until the place in Chanel will be free...



He left Versus. Which designer will replace him? Versus is not a famous brand where every famous designer want to go.
Could it be Olivier T.?
It seems that Donatella has made her choice yet

Source : businessoffashion.com

Olivier Theyskens at Versus belongs in the other (ludicrous combinations) thread Simone Rocha as well.

I do know who she's not going to surprise us with ... it will not be Alber who's going to be filling Vaccarello's teeny tiny shoes.

 

[Chanelcouture09]

[redacted]

Hedi reimagined a brand, not revolutionised a system or brand completely he simply welcomed a new generation whilst forgetting a past generation in a somewhat risky move, I think nostalgia can only come if you miss somebody and in this case I don't think many people will miss him at Saint Laurent, just look back to see how far we've moved on from those hideous styling sessions by Hedi Slimane, lets hope we can find him something for his weekend attention. Maybe world domination next?

 

[Fashionstuff]

That Harvard article...

Living near the financial district and having to cross paths with thick ties and oversized suits all the time, I have wondered too how would you dissuade someone that simply does not care. Thankfully Umair's figured it all out.. the Steve Jobs of fashion, the Stephen Hawking of socks, somewhere in page 20,781 of the Panama Papers, Hedi Slimane: the Dow Jones heavyweight you've never heard of .. anything to cater to the fashion-resistant heart of an economist (or at least their weekend attention).

.

He wrote about Slimane with real passion. Maybe he used the words which Fashion critics are normally not using but i like how he described , and this "must have , costs what costs" is absolutely right feeling. He must be a big Slimane's fan.
I live in Frankfurt ,the Euro and Banking City, there are many persons who care about fashion, of course they have a Dress code but outside their Offices, outside Banks, they carry about Trends,they drive Sport cars, they wear stylish clothes, their wifes have money to buy the clothes. So boring- "don't carry about it"-they are not.

Olivier Theyskens at Versus belongs in the other (ludicrous combinations) thread Simone Rocha as well.

I do know who she's not going to surprise us with ... it will not be Alber who's going to be filling Vaccarello's teeny tiny shoes.

Alber, not, for sure
I want Alber makes his own brand, what he is waiting for???!!!

I hope Donatella will announce soon who is the new creative director of Versus.

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ He took about a year off before Lanvin, I think ... I imagine it will be a nice long break like that while he thinks about everything.

The Harvard guy was definitely a fanboy, as he claimed ... his ideas about what pleases critics demonstrate clearly he knows nothing about fashion.

 

[reese06]

This all was so exhausting to read. LOL

An interesting and rather dramatic development is YSL completely wiped out their Instagram. I kind of find that to be disrespectful but I'm a person who thinks history and eras shouldn't be erased.

https://www.instagram.com/ysl/

 

[Steddycam91]

To be fair, there was never anything on their Instagram until last week. A few shots of the Cara Delevingne campaign, and a brief clip of the finale at Hedi's last show, but that was it.

 

[vetements]

This all was so exhausting to read. LOL

An interesting and rather dramatic development is YSL completely wiped out their Instagram. I kind of find that to be disrespectful but I'm a person who thinks history and eras shouldn't be erased.

https://www.instagram.com/ysl/

Totally agree.

Although maybe to them Instagram is just one 'current mood board' that displays whatever that is 'now', than say vs an in house museum archives of sorts...

I don't know, I personally won't do something like that myself, but I don't know what the execs and publicists at ysl think.

As of now, influence of Slimane is still 100% and customers will still want to refer to it now, it's not like they can delete Slimanes influence immediately over night as easily as they delete his insta posts. Doing it transitional is probably better, what major PR booboo.

 

[mistress_f]

(LOL)
"Saint Laurent wipes all traces of Hedi Slimane from Its Instagram Account" http://www.papermag.com/ysl-shades-the-hell-out-of-hedi-slimane-1712009752.html

 

[frk-frost]

I wonder if the instagram bio has read "The official Instagram account of Yves Saint Laurent" the whole time Are they putting the Yves back in Yves Saint Laurent Such drama!

 

[squilliam]

I guess the history wiping out is similar to what Dior did with Galliano, but they had a clear reason. I don't really understand the erasing Hedi thing, perhaps rebranding? I mean I didn't like what he did but it's not like it's some shameful part of their history (that will probably come with Vacarello's tenure, now that they'le want to erase)

 

[Steddycam91]

It is worth repeating: there was nothing on the YSL Instagram during Hedi's time at the house, so there's really nothing to "wipe away." Paper Magazine is just being opportunistic.

If you go to the YSL Twitter page there are still tons of posts relating to Hedi's work.

 

[Fashionstuff]

It is worth repeating: there was nothing on the YSL Instagram during Hedi's time at the house, so there's really nothing to "wipe away." Paper Magazine is just being opportunistic.

If you go to the YSL Twitter page there are still tons of posts relating to Hedi's work.

Yes, of course. .. They only have opened a new account, named Yves Saint Laurent again and made 1 posting -Vaccarello photo.The account where are Hedi's shows , collections, etc. is now UNOFFICIAL Account for fans! What hell is going on?! With this action they will loose the customers, the followers , did anybody read the bio under old or unofficial Saint Laurent account? Paper Magazine has right!

 

[fashionista-ta]

I have some wipes here that I'm happy to contribute if they'd like to wipe anything else

 

[Phuel]

I know it's off-topic, but has anyone checked Vaccarello's website? It seems something is really wrong with it. And you won't find any clothes there, if you know what I mean.

You’re not familiar with the design aesthetic of the terribly trendy desperately seeking the approval of Insta/Tumblr-culture, I take it…? This Tumblr-DIY layout with Helvetica plastered in the most utilitarian manner is all the rage, sadly. It all comes off as a very very very poorman’s attempt at what Hedi had always utilized for SL, and even for Dior Homme and his own projects— which in turn, seems to be a direct offshoot of the design direction of Helmut Lang, and Margiela before him…

Hedi, Helmut and Margiela pulled that sparse, utilitarian aesthetic style off flawlessly since there was always a sense of the sartorial, and a sophisticated sleekness and structure to their brand of no-frills. These days… it’s exactly what it is: retro, amateur design copied verbatim. Ssense.com even included sparkling unicorns, rainbows and hearts animation on their homepage at one time— just like the MySpace page of 2006.

And God— do I despise Vaccarello’s current campaign design direction: It’s like an eye chart at your local pharmacy.

 

[fashionista-ta]

nytimes

I hadn't seen Anthony before, but his personal style appears to be consistent ... T and loose belted jeans, and ... is that a comb-over? Comb-forward??

 

[tangerine]

Is a brand really defined by its social media accounts? If so, fashion is in worse trouble than I thought.

 

[Fashionstuff]

I hadn't seen Anthony before, but his personal style appears to be consistent ... T and loose belted jeans, and ... is that a comb-over? Comb-forward??

Yes, it's his style. T-Shirts with Long sleeves and with short sleeves, with Jeans ,black or blue

Is a brand really defined by its social media accounts? If so, fashion is in worse trouble than I thought.

If brand defined "himself" by social account than will this brand defined by ist social account.
It seems as YSL or SL didn't exist before Vaccarello. And we didn't see till now nothing what he did for the brand. Cut Saint and left only Laurent they can't so they give Saint Laurent back Yves, Forget about what was under Slimane's tenure and so, they go agead, from 0.

 

[orchidee]

I'm curious what his menswear offerings will look like. I for one am over seeing guys in Hedi's Saint Laurent "look" (ripped, skinny light wash jeans with tan suede harness boots and biker jackets). Sadly I have a feeling Vaccarello menswear will be pretty boring.