Hedi Slimane exits Saint Laurent; Anthony Vaccarello hired

[jeanclaude]

mr same sl*tty dress season after season, though...

Best definition of Vaccarello work EVER!

 

[TheoG]

How predictable was this scenario though, Slimane leave, Vaccarello succeeds. Anthony, has always felt like an overnight success to me, he was made a star within seasons. I don't expect much change since they seemed to have chosen someone they know will deliver a similar output of vision to Hedi.

 

[anlabe32]

i completely agree, and he could even be put on the same pedestal as Phoebe Philo in terms of brand revamping. I was very mixed when it came to what he was doing, but I will admit that deep down i wanted to be in his clothes even if I couldnt understand the pricing behind it. He is an amazing marketer, and he knew exactly what he was doing. The last YSL collection i remember before him was S/S 2009, but Hedi had SL in everyone's mouths. I mean I finally got some of his Chelsea boots for a Christmas gift, and its probably the best shoe I've ever owned

I guess that comes down to the person though. I, for one, wasn't interested at all in Hedi's collections and I only watched his first few collections. To me, he did the same over and over again. And it wasn't classy at all. I agree on him being a better marketeer than a designer though.

I did really love Pilati's collections, that's why I want Alber to come to YSL.

 

[perhydrol]

I know it's off-topic, but has anyone checked Vaccarello's website? It seems something is really wrong with it. And you won't find any clothes there, if you know what I mean.

 

[Jacque Marcel]

This appointment is really strange. Is he really that popular or exciting? I don't follow his career except I know he's one of the first designers to show during Paris. At least with Wang he was or is able to move products and sell. I think YSL deserves better and should be more elevated after Hedi's reign of terror.

 

[mistress_f]

I know it's off-topic, but has anyone checked Vaccarello's website? It seems something is really wrong with it. And you won't find any clothes there, if you know what I mean.

i'm seeing it for the first time and it just looks like any other 16yo's tumblr page. lol.

 

[Lola701]

This appointment is really strange. Is he really that popular or exciting? I don't follow his career except I know he's one of the first designers to show during Paris. At least with Wang he was or is able to move products and sell. I think YSL deserves better and should be more elevated after Hedi's reign of terror.

He is quite popular in the parisian scene. The cool girls are wearing his clothes: Caroline de Maigret, Charlotte Gainsbourg, Laetitia Crahay, Anja Rubik...etc.
He is a "sexy" designer. I have to say that his vision of sexy is quite modern compared to someone like Rousteing. It's a little bit more designed and conceptual than Slimane. You can clearly see the influence of Jean Colonna, Alaia and even some of the belgians in his designs but he didn't showed range at Versus or his own brand.

While he did some good things, his clothes were never enough polished for me. It will be interesting to see what he can do with the big capacities of Saint Laurent.

YSL deserve better but after Slimane, this is the best option i believe. They could not risk to comeback to the very bourgeois and mature allure of the pre-Slimane era.

I think that Vaccarello should put his own brand on hiatus.

With him at the helm of the house, we can expect big names on the runway and I&V campaigns. Just for that, i can't complain.

 

[Steddycam91]

The idea of Vaccarello being in charge of the new YSL atelier salon is sort of hilarious.

 

[TaylorBinque]

I walked pass their atelier in Paris everyday and I can see their mood board by the window. I can't wait to see what he will put on.

While I think this appointment seems off, his contribution really drove the sale and revamp of Versus. From his collections, I am certain he knows how to cut and craft but I'm not sure on the taste level. However, his is tight with Anja Rubik and his shows are packed with top-tier supermodels who know how to walk. This makes me expect for a stella cast at his first outing, at the very least.

Also the way they used Yves Saint Laurent in the article and in the press release. I wonder what's up with the name...

 

[Lola701]

So, from the rumours, Hedi is going back to Dior and Karl is going nowhere. He still have his lifetime contracts as him leaving Chanel means also leave Fendi.

 

[disco54]

This is not going to end well.
Vacerello is a very one note designer and none of his clothes are covetable. I give him 2 seasons MAX.

 

[vetements]

i completely agree, and he could even be put on the same pedestal as Phoebe Philo in terms of brand revamping. I was very mixed when it came to what he was doing, but I will admit that deep down i wanted to be in his clothes even if I couldnt understand the pricing behind it. He is an amazing marketer, and he knew exactly what he was doing. The last YSL collection i remember before him was S/S 2009, but Hedi had SL in everyone's mouths. I mean I finally got some of his Chelsea boots for a Christmas gift, and its probably the best shoe I've ever owned

Same for me, my body type is not the type that can fit into the runway-esque showing of Saint Laurent Paris, but Hedi managed to create this desire in people and like I have said before, he created clothes that people really wants, and that's so important.

In his shops, I can also find clothes I can really wear and look great in it, the allure of bringing me to the shops, find something I really love and eventually buying it is a feat by itself ( I may be lured to the shops but if I realized the clothes were crap upon closer inspection I just may not buy but I did for Hedi). And I am not even a fan fan, I don't know or care about his private life, not even following his photography, it is literally just mostly what he did at Dior homme before and now Saint Laurent. His clothes are really well made, designs sharp and no unnecessary nonsense for me. In other words, they are just good designers clothes.

That's why I am hoping he can do the same revamp, maybe not the same tastes, at Chanel.
Karl has to leave one day, and that day may just be soon given that he is alr day in his 80's..... and who else but Hedi can do a better job at this? And better do it whilst Karl is still alive then there will be a proper 'turnover'.
Given that Hedi has a chummy relationship with Karl, somewhat like the one he has with Pierre Berge, I don't think this is entirely impossible.

 

[haydn]

Sorry if this has already been mentioned... but does anyone else think this might be too much work for him? According to the press release; mens and women's collections, couture, the overall look and feel of the brand...

With Saint Laurent that equates to 2 women's runway presentations, 2 pre-collections, 2 mens runway presentations (which he's never done before, except a few looks at versus), 2 couture collections (assuming they open couture to buyers rather than Slimanes format of invite only)... And on top of that communications, campaigns, etc.. I'm sorry, but for somebody who has only been running his own brand for a few years and has only been creative director at Versus (which I don't imagine was very challenging to put safety pins on vinyl dresses), I don't think they're setting him up for any form of success. And knowing you have to follow in the footsteps of somebody who performed fashions greatest turnaround in recent history has got to be weighing on him. So best of luck!

They should have hired a separate menswear designer and put couture on hold for a bit. Also stated today that his first presentation is Spring which will show in October, so skipping mens in June?

 

[VogueDisciple93]

He would never do it but Alaïa at Dior would be my undoing, in the best way possible.

 

[disco54]

I perused over his past collections , (Vaccerello) and he is completely incompetent to take over a house like YSL. His own collections looks like a Basic B!tch version of Versace.

 

[Mody]

Does this mean he will leave Versus and Versace would no longer has his impact any more

 

[Fashionstuff]

So, from the rumours, Hedi is going back to Dior and Karl is going nowhere. He still have his lifetime contracts as him leaving Chanel means also leave Fendi.

How i wrote before, i would like to see Slimane doing Dior womenswear inkl. Couture ect. but if the impossible happens and Slimane will really replace Karl? Sincerely, i can't imagine that Karl will leave Chanel but there are also more rumors- that Hedi maybe-would- go to Chanel!?! Who knows.. i hope Hedi will go first to Dior without taking a pause and waiting until the place in Chanel will be free...

Does this mean he will leave Versus and Versace would no longer has his impact any more

He left Versus. Which designer will replace him? Versus is not a famous brand where every famous designer want to go.
Could it be Olivier T.?
It seems that Donatella has made her choice yet

Source : businessoffashion.com

Vaccarello’s successor at Versus Versace has not yet been announced. On Sunday, Donatella Versace told The New York Times that she will be “surprising everybody” with her choice.

 

[GreyVetiver]

How i wrote before, i would like to see Slimane doing Dior womenswear inkl. Couture ect. but if the impossible happens and Slimane will really replace Karl? Sincerely, i can't imagine that Karl will leave Chanel but there are also more rumors- that Hedi maybe-would- go to Chanel!?! Who knows.. i hope Hedi will go first to Dior without taking a pause and waiting until the place in Chanel will be free...



He left Versus. Which designer will replace him? Versus is not a famous brand where every famous designer want to go.
Could it be Olivier T.?
It seems that Donatella has made her choice yet

Source : businessoffashion.com

Please don't be Olivier R. Seeing him at one brand is already enough for me, and I'm sure a lot of people here feel the same way. I can see Simone Rocha/Chitose Abe at Versus though.

 

[Chanelcouture09]

His tenure was so iconic, honestly. When you look at the big picture and how he took this semi-irrelevant brand and completely tuned on its head, made it the most relevant and influential brand in the business is pretty incredible. He set the blueprint for brand revamping from now on. Gonna miss his work there, the great clothes, the brilliant marketing... and the hate lol.

For him now is either Dior, Chanel, or he got funding for his own brand. Like i've said before, Chanel would be amazing. Now only I because i'm counting the days for Karl to hang his glasses and gloves, but the brand desperately needs a strong new direction and he's the guy for it. But even if he'll do it, I don't think it will happen anytime soon. They'll probably be grooming him for another year or so and will try to make the transition as smooth as possible and give Karl the time to have a big farewell.

[redacted]

It most definitely wasn't a semi-irrelevant house [redacted]. There was most definitely a cult following especially when the house was under Stefano, but he had real integrity to what he was putting out there, he had a real vision for the brand and woman he was dressing you cannot deny that.
His campaigns had real depth to them too with the manifesto he released each season that, if you remember correctly, were much sought after and went for a high price on Ebay.

I completely disagree with those statements entirely. There is still a large proportion of sales that rest entirely on what Stefano created in the accessories division that still outsold pieces Hedi created.
The reason the brand was more successful than before was that their wholesale doors expanded (which is what a brand like Lanvin and Victoria Beckham relies on for their income) so their revenues went up naturally.

And for him going to Chanel - that would be a death warrant for the brand. People put down Hedi's collections each season but wish for him to go to one of the biggest houses in fashion and ruin that too? Please somebody fund his own house because I already hate what he would do with the couture at Chanel. It may be veering towards older and more refined but Karl has his client down to a T, not just any Tom, Dick or Harry can buy Couture so the only complaints a house is going to listen to about the avenue their collections are going in are going to be from the people buying them.
Why have Karl hang up his glasses? The man isn't doing a bad job and he's the only Couturier from that age left in the business. What I would give for Mr Valentino to return.

I think Vaccarello is going to do a marvellous job at Saint Laurent, he has a much more accessible image and approachability, Hedi was very pompous and almost on a level of his own elitism that it was his way or the highway, I'm sorry but he isn't Tom Ford, he was only a Creative Director, Tom was much higher than him.

 

[squilliam]

My feelings on this:

Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!! Oh the humanity! Think of the children! Why?! Why?!
Well he probably won't last long considering he has less looks than Derek Zoolander. Maybe somebody should write an angry letter to the guys in charge. This house had so much history and creativity and now it's turning into some vacuous millenial instagram s**t. It should've went to JPG