Hermès F/W 2015.16 Paris

[dior_couture1245]

I agree this was boring but comparing it to Zara shows you totally miss the point with Hermes.

It's a true luxury house, the wonder is not in the immediate novelty of a runway look but in the quality and detail. This customer buys Loro Piana and Brunello Cucinelli. Trust me, these clothes are as far removed Zara does as can be.

The woman who buys Hermes RTW could not give a hoot about fashion. She's also older, plumper, and a bit conservative. Vanhee showed a lot of nice things for her to wear, though I didn't need the staging of a runway show to enjoy them.

Oh - I absolutely agree. I suppose I meant, in the context of showing this collection as a runway show, it's absolutely useless. Visually, it reads as a Zara or Theory collection on the catwalk and on style.com photos, etc.

If this is what Hermes wants, then let's skip the show. Just put these clothes in the store (clothes like this are already at the store, anyway). But if you want to stage a fashion show and put more information out there for everyone to consume - you need to have something to say. This collection is absolutely mute and probably the most uninteresting thing I've seen this fashion week.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Oh - I absolutely agree. I suppose I meant, in the context of showing this collection as a runway show, it's absolutely useless. Visually, it reads as a Zara or Theory collection on the catwalk and on style.com photos, etc.

If this is what Hermes wants, then let's skip the show. Just put these clothes in the store (clothes like this are already at the store, anyway). But if you want to stage a fashion show and put more information out there for everyone to consume - you need to have something to say. This collection is absolutely mute and probably the most uninteresting thing I've seen this fashion week.

See, we've come to expect fashion houses to do collections to entertain the hundreds of thousands of people who will never the buy the clothes. But the woman who actually buys this stuff? I bet you she'll be more interested in this than anything else from fashion week.

 

[Creative]

I almost fall asleep. BORING.

 

[Scott]

i actually don't mind it per se,there's a lot about it that makes me think of branquinho's sublimeness with a bit more fluidity and coziness in certain areas. i would have hoped however with her work with the olsens and her experience at MM and celine she would have tried to capture more of that essence closer to MM when he was designing and you can certainly see flashes of that but it's very subtle. she's very capable but something tells me she might be treading lightly for her first show....especially transitioning the brand from lemaire's highly successful tenure.

 

[|PerfectTonight|]

I've always loved Hermes aestethic but those pants especially leather ones are so hard to pull off evn for the models. There were definitely some fit-issues. On the brighter note thre were amazing pieces as well.

 

[disco54]

This was so boring, I literally started closing my eyes while looking at this.
She is no where close to Lemaire.

 

[cyberprada]

I loved the shoes and the bags. However the clothes were a little bit boring but honestly I don't understand why anyone would compare Hermes to Zara. Hermes is all about the fabrics and the sophistication.

I agree that comparing to Lemaire's work, this collection was kind of boring. I'll call it "safe", and I can't wait to see her SS16 collection, maybe she'll start taking a little bit more risks.

 

[jeanclaude]

It feels like a lite version of Céline past collections. Nice to wear and mix with other things...but nothing out of this world.

The comparison of Hermès and Zara by dior_couture1245 I think means that the clothes feel very basic and commercial. Of course it has nothing to do with the quality factor.

 

[marcBarna]

This looks exactly like what Uterqüe used to be (Inditex's high-end Zara).

 

[jeanclaude]

This looks exactly like what Uterqüe used to be (Inditex's high-end Zara).

Ya te digo! ;-)

 

[rip_ian curtis]

I guess the comparison to Zara in this thread came from the obvious "fashion" element Vanhee has added to the "basic" Hermes lexicon here. That is also where she has gone wrong. When you do simple and basic with fashionable details, you can easily end up in the "generic" pile. Let's face it: we've seen enough of modernist-influenced fashion design in recent years, perfect luxury coats and pants with that added something - like the graphic circle detail, mink sweaters or the odd bags seen in this collection. Hermes and Lemaire have been so good at restraining themselves and staying above of all that. What has made Hermes so special, at least to me, is that they don't try to be anything special (aka pretentious). The ultimate luxury and timelessness and agelessness would be enough. I knew someone coming from The Row could not keep it that way.

 

[MON]

Something about it is very Zara.. but I like it?

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Sensible pandering to the 1%.

She's come in with a fit, a palette and a sensibility that feels as if it has always been there. Echoes the clean lines and understated ostentatiousness of her label mate Nichanian.

You're the only one in this thread that has said anything accurate about this collection.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I knew someone coming from The Row could not keep it that way.

Did you actually see the commercial collections Lemaire did? That actually was sent to the stores?

I hate to burst all of your bubbles but this actually looks almost identical to Lemaire's!

 

[dior_couture1245]

I hate to burst all of your bubbles but this actually looks almost identical to Lemaire's!

But then what's the point?

 

[Deleted member 7575]

But then what's the point?

The point is that Lemaire's Hermes was a success but he had to leave to focus on his own brand. So they brought in a designer with the same philosophy and instincts. I don't think the idea was ever to shake things up.

You all can moan and whine but the reality is that the woman who's been shopping Hermes will find everything she needs and wants here. She's probably already been buying The Row and Lemaire to wear together.

And the real point of luxury is that you all can complain but it won't really matter, most of us are priced out of having a relevant opinion about it.

 

[rip_ian curtis]

Did you actually see the commercial collections Lemaire did? That actually was sent to the stores?

I hate to burst all of your bubbles but this actually looks almost identical to Lemaire's!

I was mainly talking about the catwalk collection and how until now Hermes has managed to differentiate themselves from the rest of the shows. It is a fact that all labels have different collections for the shops, even Hermes. To me this particular collection just looks more generic and pretentious than what Hermes has ever appeared via their shows.

 

[Vitamine W]

It's so heavy and suffocating. I'm underwhelmed about the lack of elegance. The shoes are fantastic but I miss Lemaire deeply.

 

[ogepma]

I think this is a very good first outing by her. It doesn't seem to have the sensuality and languid attitude the Lemarie's design did but it still has some ease to it. The Hermes customer under Lemarie will definitely not be alienated by this. At the end of the day, Hermes is a luxury house first and a fashion one second so she has to design accordingly, me thinks.

 

[ohmyy]

This is beautiful! I am impressed.