Loewe F/W 2015.16 Paris

[Steddycam91]

There's something charmingly goofy and geeky about this collection, but I can't quite embrace it. It's not that it's gimmicky (what designer so far this season hasn't been gimmicky?) it's just that it feels like this whole collection feels built around seven or eight pieces of 80's-era clothing Anderson found at a thrift store, and he remade them in nice fabric treatments and in six different colors. Obviously every fashion house does this, but the repetitiveness of Anderson's shows only makes it more obvious.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

agree with all who said they prefer this to his work on his own label. there are some fun and desirable pieces here.

that said, i don't like everything: it's more hit and miss for me.

 

[gazebo]

https://www.youtube.com/user/Loewe1846

 

[|PerfectTonight|]

Have to admit that this is how you do 80s. Great styling!

 

[Morphe]

Bring back Stuart Vevers.

 

[ogepma]

Great collection! I am really a fan of this direction he is taking; both here and at his namesake label. The clothes are weird yet wearable. His take on the 80s this season has been more than stellar.

 

[Nosaceli]

feeling disappointed after the great S/S15 collection. I'm just not feeling it. Still better than anything he's done ever at his own line (as said before)

 

[HeatherAnne]

High praise from Cathy Horn:

What Is Too Much? What Is Enough? What Looks Authentic?
By Cathy Horyn

Phoebe Philo, in a powerful, sure-footed statement today for Céline, finally addressed one of the most stubborn problems in fashion: how to make sexy clothes that don’t sexualize a woman — that have a definite sense of glamour but also relate to how we live.

The show was probably Philo's broadest, most free expression yet of the kinds of things she likes; layered knits, a flair for surprising proportions, and accessories that throw everything off-kilter. You could tell from the opening outfits that Philo was pushing things with more self-assurance than she's ever pushed them — the wide-leg trousers with broken floral appliqués shown with clingy but comfy ribbed sweaters; the simple wool office dresses hemmed at the knee and worn with sneakers were bold questions about the notions of glamour. This was the first time her whole show made sense to me, and when I practically ran backstage to talk to her about it afterward, she explained that she and her design team began this season with a list of questions. What is too much? What is it not enough? And what looks authentic?

It seems to me that kind of hard-core questioning has been missing in fashion, which explains why so many runway collections lately look tentative or disconnected from women’s lives. Many designers have a one-dimensional view of glamour that boils down to t*ts and fringe. They seem oblivious that many women evoke glamour in a single gesture — the way, say, we cinch a good-looking coat at the waist or let a loose top reveal a hint of collarbone. One was always aware of the body in Philo's show, even when it was mostly covered up. Sometimes, too, the telling gesture was red lipstick, worn by only a handful of the models — an effective nod to how wonderfully variable and unpredictable women can be in their self-presentation.

Indeed, what I most appreciated about this collection was its variety. There were outfits for women whose style isn’t dressy, like the wool ponchos worn with knock-around skirts and shown with big shopper totes in a mixture of colors or textures. But then there were the double-layered slip dresses in three-tone washed silk, some worn with a long, ropelike boa finished with fur pom-poms the size of melons. Both the slip and the pom-poms were more typically elegant, but in seriously questioning the elements — and, literally, turning the fur into something playful on a string — Philo captured the complexity of a woman's desire to be at once chic, playful, smart, and, yes, glamourous.

Céline is one of the very few successful brand revivals of the past decade, which includes attempts by Carven, Maiyet, Schiaparelli, and more — while other names, like Rochas and Vionnet, replace their talent often enough to appear as avaricious as a Hollywood studio on its fifth horror sequel. But is there really a market for Vionnet’s clumsy drapery? I wondered the same about Guillaume Henry's peacoats and T-shirt dresses at Nina Ricci, though they were nice enough. Henry is the new guy at Ricci, replacing Peter Copping, who went to Oscar de la Renta. More than half a century ago, when Christian Dior suddenly died, there was an economic imperative to keep his house going and promote Yves Saint Laurent. After the New Look appeared, in 1947, Dior’s sales accounted for roughly half of France’s fashion exports.

But today these old brands mainly seem to clog the fashion system, discouraging young talent and new ideas. That’s why Jonathan Anderson’s overhaul of Loewe stands out. After only one year at the house, he gives you a reason to take notice, generously offering up new ideas for dressing, like wide-leg trousers in herringbone worn with very cool blousons in leather or what appeared to be papery cotton, the collars folded back or done as cowls.

Anderson basically had three ideas in this collection, and that was enough: slouchy trousers and the chic blouson, a slim leather coat in icy pastels worn with matching pants, and a rather divine knee-length shirt dress in pleated metallic silk worn with black trousers. But you’re free to play and wear the dress alone. And hey, an economy of design is never a bad thing.

nymag

 

[softgrey]

...

and i ran...
i ran so far away....

...

 

[eugenius]

It's like watching History Of The World, Part 1: no, no, no, YES, no, no, no.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

^ what's the YES?
(for me, those fluid trousers & the short leather jackets)

 

[Pricciao]

The video does the justice, but why all these designer clothes these seasons look SO BAD in the photos?

 

[eugenius]

^ what's the YES?
(for me, those fluid trousers & the short leather jackets)

Just the last knee-length metallic pleated skirt in #3..but I'm forever biased towards long pleated skirts anyways.

But for the most part, I'd say it's a pretty hideous collection..and offering a given garment in a different color doesn't change anything.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Yeah-- those pleated metallic dresses are supreme-- very... Helmut Lang.

Other than the pleated pieces and camel-color coatdress, I can't see anything worthy of a luxury label. Seriously, does he really think he can get away with those ill-fitting leather jackets that were all-too common mall-fodder in 1984...? I mean, my sister had tons of those trendy jackets that she got at the mall that were all the rage back then-- because of Duran Duran.

Just because this guy's finally wrangled a "wearable" collection together, as weak as it is, he shouldn't get a pass. Tons of designers are offering fuller-cut pants, I don't see anything special about his. I guess when his offerings have been so meager and all built on hype, some are starved to see anything remotely salvageable in this offering.

This collection looks like he raided the Danier archive-- complete with ugly sherbet-color leathers, and threw in a few Helmut Lang metallic pleats for street cred.

 

[MON]

i love it. The first look sold me.

Although some looks would have been better if the fit were better

 

[softgrey]

^^^ Yeah-- those pleated metallic dresses are supreme-- very... Helmut Lang.

Other than the pleated pieces and camel-color coatdress, I can't see anything worthy of a luxury label. Seriously, does he really think he can get away with those ill-fitting leather jackets that were all-too common mall-fodder in 1984...? I mean, my sister had tons of those trendy jackets that she got at the mall that were all the rage back then-- because of Duran Duran.

Just because this guy's finally wrangled a "wearable" collection together, as weak as it is, he shouldn't get a pass. Tons of designers are offering fuller-cut pants, I don't see anything special about his. I guess when his offerings have been so meager and all built on hype, some are starved to see anything remotely salvageable in this offering.

This collection looks like he raided the Danier archive-- complete with ugly sherbet-color leathers, and threw in a few Helmut Lang metallic pleats for street cred.