Industrie Magazine Premiere Issue : Anna Wintour

[Dieselmax]

I just noticed something... Whatever happened to Hedi Slimane, Paco Rabanne and Pascal Dangin, whose names were featured on the teaser cover with Daria...? There are no articles about them in the final issue.

 

[honeycombchild]

If you read the issue though, particularly the interview about the editors, it seems to have been conducted after the teaser cover (which wasn't actually a teaser cover, but instead an e-mail sent to the industry advertising the magazine as forthcoming) had been posted here. It seems they were done very close to the magazine actually going to print, so perhaps they had secured interviews, that then fell through.

I think it's probably an explanation for the awful proof reading too. It seems to have been done very close to the wire.

 

[BerlinRocks]

finally read all the interviews ...
Katie Grand and Panos itws were the most interesting !
Eventhough Katie is, imo, too full of herself, I pretty much love the people who are honest with themselves and don't act the very polish way just to make her work look interesting ...

What Panos is saying got me depressed. If he ever stops styling, I wish him the best ! Though I hope I'll be still able to catch an eye on his career .... ahah
In his itw, I really like the snake behaviour of the itw-er ... Like you're saying your work is being true to yourself and style, though I don't associate Cavalli or Dolce or Hermès or H&B to your style ... I felt weird reading this, like "well probably Panos is one of those ambitious wolves" .... I don't know ...

And in the end, put the itw of Sauvé was really interesting, as you can completely see the difference btw France and UK fashion scenes ...

Transparency and internet are the new challenges to work on for Fashion Magazines Industry, obviously ...

 

[vavavinny]

vavavinny - I posted them on the previous page.

Although when I scanned the interviews, the text didn't come out so clearly, so hopefully you can still read them without too much trouble...

Ah! Thanks franchini for posting and Berlin for pointing them out ! I didn't notice them before!

So far I have read the interviews with Karl Templer and Marie Amelie Sauve--two of my favorite stylists--and they seem to reiterate the same concepts: team work and importance of talent/creativity. Both seem to be very down to earth in their interviews, something I expected from Templer but not from Sauve, who has recently been given a cold, bitchy reputation by some fashion media outlets.

I particularly liked Templer's interview because I got the sense that he just wasn't an overnight sensation and that he had to work very hard for the phenomenal career he now has. I really appreciate the fact that the process of his career was discussed. I find it very hopeful. I also liked his comment that fashion imagery is now so ubiquitous that is difficult to produce a truly innovative, unique image. In this post-post-post-modern time, everything is really a copy or reinterpretation of something else. I think it is nearly possible for someone to produce a completely new, fresh image or concept.

Sauve also offered some fantastic insights. Could you imagine having your mother scoring you an internship at VOGUE PARIS at the age of 18!?! I wish her mother was mine! From this tidbit, I assume that she comes from an at least somewhat bourgeois family? She also mentions that her family is very intellectual, which also makes me think that she is somewhat affluent.

She could not stop talking about how amazing it is to work at U.S. Vogue. I wonder if this is in a way a subtle backhand at Carine and company? Maybe not. There is no denying that she is one of the most talented stylists working in the industry today, and it is such a pleasure to read a very rare interview with her.

Thanks again for pasting franchini !

 

[vavavinny]

finally read all the interviews ...
Katie Grand and Panos itws were the most interesting !
Eventhough Katie is, imo, too full of herself, I pretty much love the people who are honest with themselves and don't act the very polish way just to make her work look interesting ...

What Panos is saying got me depressed. If he ever stops styling, I wish him the best ! Though I hope I'll be still able to catch an eye on his career .... ahah
In his itw, I really like the snake behaviour of the itw-er ... Like you're saying your work is being true to yourself and style, though I don't associate Cavalli or Dolce or Hermès or H&B to your style ... I felt weird reading this, like "well probably Panos is one of those ambitious wolves" .... I don't know ...

And in the end, put the itw of Sauvé was really interesting, as you can completely see the difference btw France and UK fashion scenes ...

Transparency and internet are the new challenges to work on for Fashion Magazines Industry, obviously ...

I COMPLETELY agree! I noticed this contrast as well, particularly in the interviews of Sauve and Templer. The French fashion scene seems extremely closed and exclusive, whereas the British fashion scene seems much more open, democratic, and available to more people, at the time both began their careers at least. It seems as if Sauve started her career through (family) connections, while, on the other hand, though he knew the son of the owner of The Face, Templer had to work for a while and climb his way up the ladder.

 

[Mathewthew]

I love the interviews I think that's the best thing of the magazine.....
I wish there will be more interviews like this, nice job !

 

[farou7a]

The recession has seen a dearth of decent sub-editors throughout the universe, because I'm even seeing that happen at places like the BBC.

Anyhow, I've got to the point in the Katie Grand piece where she's said:

“Authority is knowledge. If someone goes onto the Fashion Spot and writes that a magazine is dreadful, that’s different from Cathy Horyn saying it is dreadful because there is an authoritative, experienced voice behind the latter point of view.”

If someone goes onto the Fashion Spot and writes that they didn't buy your magazine because they didn't like it, that's a type of knowledge that's perhaps worth paying attention to, so you can discover how to make your magazine really resonate with all sorts of readers.

And in the end, if someone does purchase the product, they get to have an opinion on it, even if they seem offensively uninformed.

Anyone who goes onto the Fashion Spot and writes that the magazine was dreadful - that person is a potential convert, not someone to be dismissed. An editor should be excited at the prospect of getting her hands on those opinions and turning them around.

Very well said. Its constructive criticism after all. They should be grateful that there is input from readers who have genuine interest in fashion.

 

[the-raven]

What Panos is saying got me depressed. If he
ever stops styling, I wish him the best ! Though I hope I'll be still able to catch an eye on his career .... ahah
In his itw, I really like the snake behaviour of the itw-er ... Like you're saying your work is being true to yourself and style, though I don't associate Cavalli or Dolce or Hermès or H&B to your style ... I felt weird reading this, like "well probably Panos is one of those ambitious wolves" .... I don't know ...

I think it's highlighting the difference between his personal work and commercial work. It's even discussed in the interview.

 

[franchini]

Patrick Demarchelier interview



scanned by me

 

[franchini]

'How to Look Good Naked'

Photography Patrick Demarchelier
Models Daria Werbowy and Lara Stone




scanned by me

 

[Fiercification]

I have a feeling certain members are going to explode when they see those .

 

[tigerrouge]

And if they take the time to read the Demarchelier article, they might also enjoy the sensation of being pleasantly surprised by yet more of the written content.

 

[wmaw]

I bought my copy this week!!! the magazine it's great... love daria and lara editorial

 

[BerlinRocks]

Ahah ... For how long haven't you come to Europe Patrick ? We are 27, now !

Joke apart ... I'm not sure what he says about Testino, Sims, McDean etc. is right ... First, to me, they don't belong to same generation and school ... Putting Testino next to McDean in the same sentence makes no-sense in my mind ...
Second, how many photog of the Demarchelier generation are still working that much ? Lindbergh ? Weber ? Ok ... Now Ritts ? Dead ! Bill King ? Dead ! Malignon ? Heu ..... Albert Watson ? Seems to be no more in fashion .... Bensimon ? Only worked for Elle ! Elgort ? Hispard ? They don't work as much as Demarchelier, now ... Hispard may work as much as Carmen Dell' O. (Carmen is an old model, she's still working for JPG I believe ...), so c'mone !
So yes, these "young" photographers, as they are called, are probably younger than Demarchelier ... But sorry to say that they cannot be considered new anymore in the Industry and they work along Demarchelier, Lindbergh etc. ... and as much as them ! When you see that Sims works for Grace and Marie-Amélie at Vogue US ... Probably, Demarchelier's noticing is no longer in the game .........

Viviane Sassen, Karim Sadly, Willy Vanderperre may be called the "new" generation, not Testino, Patrick !

And because I didn't know in which year he was born, I started looking through wiki and after I checked all the photographers that came in my mind and who were working great in the 80s, and the "new" generation :

Helmut Newton (1920-2004)
Francesco Scavullo (1921-2004)
Richard Avedon (1923-2004)
Guy Bourdin (1928-1991)
....
Hiro (1930s ?)
Deborah Turbeville (1938)
.....
Arthur Elgort (1940)
Sarah Moon (1941)
Albert Watson (1942)
Demarchelier (1943)
Lindbergh / Gilles Bensimon (1944)
Bruce Weber (1946)
Paolo Roversi (1947)
....
Herb Ritts (1952-2002)
Testino / Meisel (1954)
....
Steven Klein (1961 ? 1965 ?)
Terry Richardson (1962)
Craig McDean / Juergen Teller (1964)
Corinne Day (1965)
....
Mario Sorrenti (1971)
Willy Vanderperre (1971)
Viviane Sassen (1972)

 

[testinofan]

hhahahahah Testino in te same sentense of Mcdean. David Sims is stupid , say Testino are new?? so Mert Alas are a baby??
Com on Patrick you know Mario Testino, Steven Meisel, Steven Klein are big photographers and 2 of this up to you

 

[jeremydante]

im SOOOOOOOO over seeing daria & lara naked; like, for real. there are other models in the industry. (& by other models i dont mean eniko mihalik, who we see nude often also)

 

[FashionTopFace]

me too i tyhink lara is ew

 

[finchesthalia]

thanks for you scans franchini. Can you scan Alessandra's pic, please? thanks again

 

[mteb123]

“Authority is knowledge. If someone goes onto the Fashion Spot and writes that a magazine is dreadful, that’s different from Cathy Horyn saying it is dreadful because there is an authoritative, experienced voice behind the latter point of view.”

If someone goes onto the Fashion Spot and writes that they didn't buy your magazine because they didn't like it, that's a type of knowledge that's perhaps worth paying attention to, so you can discover how to make your magazine really resonate with all sorts of readers.

And in the end, if someone does purchase the product, they get to have an opinion on it, even if they seem offensively uninformed.

Anyone who goes onto the Fashion Spot and writes that the magazine was dreadful - that person is a potential convert, not someone to be dismissed. An editor should be excited at the prospect of getting her hands on those opinions and turning them around.

Katie Grand needs to realise that those very people on fashionspot are some of the people who actually buy her magazines, without them she wouldn't have a magazine, l find her comment insulting!!

 

[JustABoy]

^ I don't, particularly. Obviously as a member of the fashion spot I am interested in reading what the members here write and have to say. But I absolutely agree that at the end of the day, I would take the opinion of someone who had worked as a critic for years and years more seriously than I would the opinions of the members here. Anyone can join TFS and trash on American Vogue or their least favorite model; not everyone can work their way up the ladder and become the main fashion critic at the NYT. Respecting that position and the experience it stands for makes sense in my mind, even if you disagree with what Horyn says. Even if you don't respect Horyn more, you might admit that hers is a different kind of opinion--anyone, young or old, ignorant or educated, can join TFS (or apply to join it, at least), and the ease of gaining membership here means that the value of the opinions offered here decreases comparatively.

Anyway, I doubt that magazine editors are more concerned with the writing on here about magazines than the posting of the magazines' content by members; how many people don't buy a magazine because they can see all the editorial content online?