Jil Sander F/W 2019.20 Milan

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[jeanclaude]

Whenever I think about Jil Sander, volumes never come to my mind. I miss her 90s collections soo much...

whitneyschuyler.com

 

[rip_ian curtis]

Jil did volume, too, but mainly with coats and in a much more refined way. Her collections were full of lightness, interesting cuts, bias cut, sheer, clever hiding and exposing of the body, new materials, signature proportions... none of that is seen here!

Instead the current designers insist on offering bulky, heavy, monastic and pretentious looks. I would also like to know what is their obsession with those strange striped fabrics that remind me of old mattresses. They do that every season. So not elegant!

 

[jeanclaude]

Jil did volume, too, but mainly with coats and in a much more refined way.

Yes, totally! Her play with volumes were always subtle. She never drown models in fabrics.

Those stripes reminds me of concentration camp uniforms.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

this is definitely too slouchy for sanders

 

[dfl-001]

I was expecting understated chic from Jil Sander, instead we get lumpy and shapeless.
It's like two competing ideas fighting against each other; sleek minimalism and some exercise in volume. Neither quite get there. The pale yellow top is the only look I like.

 

[Fiercification]

Honestly what the hell even is this? More 'whoever makes the best (worst) Phoebe Philo tribute wins a show at Milan FW!!!' than Jil Sander honestly. So sad.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

Apparently the Jil Sander woman no longer has a shape. She prefers to hide her body in oversized potato sacks. A Poncho at Jil Sander? Enough is enough. Either kill it once and for all or hire a pro. This brand has too much of a history to go into irrelevancy.

 

[kasper!]

^I was thinking the same. Their brand DNA is all about sleek and tailored look, def not potato sacks!

 

[TaylorBinque]

why they really want to make Jil Sander women wear slouchy oversized everything. I feel like they have been doing the same thing since they took over. Why can't we have a sleek, streamlined and interesting cuts?

 

[Lola701]

For me the problem is not oversized silhouettes but the fact that they don't seems to care about the core customer of JS.
JS is for active women, ACTIVE WOMEN (and men). So clothes that are practical, that solves problem for people with busy lives. And all of that, with a fashion twist.

Loungewear is cool but I doubt the JS woman lives the same life as the The Row woman. This is just not believable.

 

[tricotineacetat]

For me the problem is not oversized silhouettes but the fact that they don't seems to care about the core customer of JS.
JS is for active women, ACTIVE WOMEN (and men). So clothes that are practical, that solves problem for people with busy lives. And all of that, with a fashion twist.

Loungewear is cool but I doubt the JS woman lives the same life as the The Row woman. This is just not believable.

I am in agreement with this wholeheartedly and it's the reason why I find their work to be quite two-dimensional for Jil Sander - Her minimalism had depth because of the pragmatic groundedness her clothes had, which is completely missing from the Meier's work. Oddly enough, I get the flair of Damir Doma or Samuel Drira hanging over this which is exactly everything Jil Sander should not be to have a reason to exist beyond her retirement.

Christophe Lemaire would be the most logical successor here with the experiences he made both at Hermès and most recently at Uniqlo to ensure that the practical element of Jil Sander clothes is kept along with an easy-handed, urban sophistication. Or Hussein Chalayan, in continuation of the more editorially relevant work that put Jil Sander back on the map during Raf Simons' tenure.

 

[Lola701]

^^
It's interesting that you mentioned Uniqlo because I think that unfortunately, the heritage of JS is at Uniqlo and COS.
Jil Sander is supposed to be the place where we can find the most amazing and yet simple white shirt. It's supposed to be the place where we can find the most amazing and yet simple details: an interesting collar, shape or fabric.

You can't a versatile suit in a beautiful fabric? JS is your place!

Jil Sander is supposed to be for a total wardrobe of "essentials" what Max Mara is for coats.

I hate to mention him but Raf understood it perfectly. The shapes were simple and so was the styling but yet, the colors, prints or fabrics gave another dimension to the brand. And because in substance, JS is above trends, the pink pant someone bought in 2011 is still relevant today.

Minimalism wasn't a trend for JS and unfortunately, it is for this couple.

TBH, JS has enough archives to survive on it own. All they need is a great marketing team, some great campaigns and I wouldn't even mind a celebrity deal. Just release archives item, collaborate with Joe McKenna and everything is perfect.

The ALAIA business model should be the blueprint for a lot of struggling brands.

 

[tricotineacetat]

^^
It's interesting that you mentioned Uniqlo because I think that unfortunately, the heritage of JS is at Uniqlo and COS.
Jil Sander is supposed to be the place where we can find the most amazing and yet simple white shirt. It's supposed to be the place where we can find the most amazing and yet simple details: an interesting collar, shape or fabric.

I mentioned Uniqlo in this case because I find their approach to the development of product, through extensive research and refinement of technically exacting details such as the fabrics and yarns used, the functionality of their outerwear etc. to be not so far away from what Jil Sander was all about, and why she was probably hired by Uniqlo to give the company more depth and direction, through her creative input - Remember that her recruitment at the time was understood not only to design the critically acclaimed +J design line, but also to give direction to the core Uniqlo business. That is exactly the assignment currently given to Christophe Lemaire at Uniqlo U.

As you mentioned yourself, the Meier's look at minimalism as purely a style proposition seen through current trends already paved by other designers, such as The Row, Céline, Damir Doma and the like. They are essentially doing COS, which is a mash-up of all these designers, just on a lower price point.

Raf Simons was good for Jil Sander because he added a pragmatic fashion element that wasn't as contrived as later on at Dior or Calvin Klein. Oddly enough, I think everyone expected that and it shows there is a need for this kind of design also on a luxury level as nobody seems to get it right today. I am still rooted for Chalayan and Lemaire to have that kind of understanding or maybe Veronique Branquinho who is a storied and proven talent with a pragmatic eye in her own right.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Another thing I may want to add: Jil Sander is a brand that should have a healthy part of their collection not conceived as seasonal fashion business but permanent/non-seasonal products that are communicated and marketed as such.

 

[donyan]

I agree with everything said here . It’s not even that the clothes are ugly, i’m sure that in individual pieces are much nicer in reality, just as a look and show it seems so unappealing. Apparently sales figures fell catastrophically under Raf but at least it was relevant. I’d be interested to know how it’s doing now

 

[tatouejeremie]

TBH, JS has enough archives to survive on it own. All they need is a great marketing team, some great campaigns and I wouldn't even mind a celebrity deal. Just release archives item, collaborate with Joe McKenna and everything is perfect.

actually they got rid of the entire archive and the earliest stuff they have is from raf's tenure

 

[Lola701]

actually they got rid of the entire archive and the earliest stuff they have is from raf's tenure

They can go to Vogue.com, WWD or even fashion channel for pictures of those collections and copy from that. Designers in NY, Paris, London and Milan does that every season