John Galliano - Designer, Creative Director of Maison Margiela

[Xone]

Something is coming guys…

 

[Lola701]

His rant is cute but on this case, it’s Galliano who is leaving Margiela.

I think it’s « de bon ton » to always criticize the Corporate side when sometimes the creative side is more than willing to play the game.

The question we should ask is why the young designers are so mediocre nowadays than brands prefers to choose either the same old names or designers coming from certain studios.

And I think the press has it own responsibility too. Virginie was mediocre but they continued to praise her work. They all criticizes Pharrell but are more inclined to do papers on him rather than on Nicolas who is pushing creativity at Vuitton.
But also, the press has had this unhealthy habit to concentrate on the profile of the designers instead of their talents.

Why Martine Rose or Grace Bonner are not at the helm of brands nowadays despite having auditioned for brands and being part of the fashion scene? Maybe because so much of the focus is not on the clothes, the product.

For me, the story of John is a story of revenge and redemption…

 

[MulletProof]

I DON'T KNOW WHO PHILIPPE IS BUT TIRED TOO AGREED YES.

And let me just extend that to politics and their 'next generation' 'someone to keep an eye on' when 3 years away from 70. When did retirement and not trusting people under 60 become so bad! mandatory retirement for everyone...



But.. just to argue with myself lol, something about designing for the 'vision' of someone who perished 60 years ago.. I guess it's all so damn old that doing that at 70 or 17, what difference does it make if it's all about blending your ideas and creative expression into a wall and just keeping a stranger's 'legacy' alive.

 

[tourbillions]

i would much rather have him stay at margiela until he is tired with fashion. After the last show, he can do whatever he wants to the brand and the insta crowd will eat it up. Im sure he doesnt need more money at this point. I think its time for brands to embrace longevity and building a relationship between their clients and the CD. And this takes more than the usual 3 year rounds of hiring. But ofcourse there are some where its apparent from the start that its not gonna work.

I am tired of reading things like "young talent are not given opportunities". Yet here we are with mcqueen guy, ancora, williams, ferragamo guy, ludovic at ann demuelmeester who all failed to do anything at all. is that not enough chance? There are also those who are quietly refreshing brands like missoni and tods but are not getting much press.

Theres enough jobs out there for seasoned designers and fresh talents, its just the fresh talents are not really cutting it. maybe the next generation will have more prodigees. if people really want to support fresh and young talents then they should go support contemporary brands that are helmed by them.

 

[PDFSD]

Designers & CEO etc should change or leave or be fired as often as its necessary or wanted by both sides till the right person is at the right house at the right time doing the right thing.

I don't see the issue with this its a job it's a career and one has to perform, Drama is life with the dull bits cut out....... i guess.

 

[CholoChic]

Were are talking about the best designer of the world who can make you still dream about fashion
please master give us John Galliano Haute Couture

 

[Irere]

i would much rather have him stay at margiela until he is tired with fashion. After the last show, he can do whatever he wants to the brand and the insta crowd will eat it up.

On the other hand, Galliano has his own very distinct artistic vision, as does Margiela (the man and the house). How long should you expect Rembrandt to keep painting Picassos?

 

[tourbillions]

On the other hand, Galliano has his own very distinct artistic vision, as does Margiela (the man and the house). How long should you expect Rembrandt to keep painting Picassos?

Unfortunately none of the houses now are what they were under the founders. thats just how it goes.

 

[jeanclaude]

The question we should ask is why the young designers are so mediocre nowadays than brands prefers to choose either the same old names or designers coming from certain studios.

That´s a very important question, a key one. The root of the problem is that HR/Headhunters from brands are only interested in designers coming from an expensive fashion school. If you studied in an unknown public school, then you are invisible to them.

They need to learn that going to an expensive fashion school does not mean having talent (but just having the money to afford it). And that talent could be found anywhere, not just in the same few places they insist on searching at. Because they are missing a lot of talent out there, who don´t/didn´t have a dime to enroll into Parsons, CSM, Esmod or any other luxury school.

 

[avonlea002]

On the other hand, Galliano has his own very distinct artistic vision, as does Margiela (the man and the house). How long should you expect Rembrandt to keep painting Picassos?

The thing is Rembrandt never painted Picasso. Galliano couldn't be less interested in actual Margiela. It has been Galliano 2.0 under Martin's name since the day one. He was just a bit lighter with historical references at the beginning.

 

[CholoChic]

The truth is that it is not every day that Rembrandts or Picassos or a fashion genius like John Galliano are born.

Esa es una pregunta muy importante, clave. La raíz del problema es que los recursos humanos y los cazatalentos de las marcas solo están interesados en diseñadores que hayan salido de una escuela de moda cara. Si estudias en una escuela pública desconocida, entonces eres invisible para ellos.

Tienen que aprender que ir a una escuela de moda cara no significa tener talento (sino simplemente tener el dinero para pagarlo). Y que el talento se puede encontrar en cualquier parte, no sólo en los pocos lugares en los que insisten en buscar. Porque están perdiendo mucho talento ahí fuera, que no tiene/no tenía ni un centavo para inscribirse en Parsons, CSM, Esmod o cualquier otra escuela de lujo.

 

[jeanclaude]

The truth is that it is not every day that Rembrandts or Picassos or a fashion genius like John Galliano are born.

Of course!!

 

[Alquimista]

That´s a very important question, a key one. The root of the problem is that HR/Headhunters from brands are only interested in designers coming from an expensive fashion school. If you studied in an unknown public school, then you are invisible to them.

They need to learn that going to an expensive fashion school does not mean having talent (but just having the money to afford it). And that talent could be found anywhere, not just in the same few places they insist on searching at. Because they are missing a lot of talent out there, who don´t/didn´t have a dime to enroll into Parsons, CSM, Esmod or any other luxury school.

Excuse my ignorance but do these headhunters use linkedin? I feel like fashion people don't even use that (never looked it up tho) lol.

Fashion design should have a platform like dribble and behance. It would be interesting to open the possibilities for hiring talents outside of elite schools or brands.

 

[jeanclaude]

Excuse my ignorance but do these headhunters use linkedin? I feel like fashion people don't even use that (never looked it up tho) lol.

Fashion design should have a platform like dribble and behance. It would be interesting to open the possibilities for hiring talents outside of elite schools or brands.

I don´t know if they use Linkedin...but I can tell you that there have been several platforms focused in fashion (and they are all gone). Talenthouse, V-files, Iqons...all disappeared.

 

[Creative]

That´s a very important question, a key one. The root of the problem is that HR/Headhunters from brands are only interested in designers coming from an expensive fashion school. If you studied in an unknown public school, then you are invisible to them.

They need to learn that going to an expensive fashion school does not mean having talent (but just having the money to afford it). And that talent could be found anywhere, not just in the same few places they insist on searching at. Because they are missing a lot of talent out there, who don´t/didn´t have a dime to enroll into Parsons, CSM, Esmod or any other luxury school.

1000000000%

Guys and girls in private schools are just rich kids who like shopping. It’s really terrible. And somebody from a public school will never make it to LVMH for example. Really sad.

Regarding John leaving… if he goes to LVMH, it would be the most ridiculous thing ever. What they did to him was beyond shady. They treated him so bad. I could never.

 

[Lola701]

Excuse my ignorance but do these headhunters use linkedin? I feel like fashion people don't even use that (never looked it up tho) lol.

Fashion design should have a platform like dribble and behance. It would be interesting to open the possibilities for hiring talents outside of elite schools or brands.

The fashion European community, particularly Parisian and Italian isn’t very large. There are a lot of people knowing each other, a lot of people coming out of esteemed studios.
You have headhunters who goes to fashion schools or festivals/contests but coming from a studio from a good designer is actually such a testament to someone’s supposed talent, standards and professionalism that it’s understandable to see why they are following that route.

LinkedIn can be interesting to keep up with the activities of some people in the industry following a news for example but I don’t think it’s that useful.

And in reality, schools students are great for studios. And not all schools are luxury or for rich kids. What is interesting is that some schools open doors for internships through their old graduate who became stars. Someone like Alexandre Mattiussi went to a public school, Duperre. The you have Studio Berçot and IFM who are maybe less glamorous than CSM or La Cambre (I don’t think Parsons has the same prestige today) but who are also efficient.

I think the standards are higher in French schools anyway because the technical side is still valued when at CSM for example, it’s all for creativity. And there’s anyway an ecosystem to nurture talents in France. But it’s tougher.
Jacquemus dropped the ball when he left school but maybe judging by his trajectory, he made the right choice.

 

[Creative]

^To study fashion abroad, and especially in Paris, you kinda have to be a “rich” kid… Maybe not rich, but if you are average you can’t.

Duperre and a Berçot are famous because they are in Paris. Outside Paris, even in France, if you study fashion anywhere else you are f*cked.

Fashion is elitist. And that’s part of its course in 2024 tbh.

 

[Lola701]

^To study fashion abroad, and especially in Paris, you kinda have to be a “rich” kid… Maybe not rich, but if you are average you can’t.

Duperre and a Berçot are famous because they are in Paris. Outside Paris, even in France, if you study fashion anywhere else you are f*cked.

Fashion is elitist. And that’s part of its course in 2024 tbh.

Yes but education anyway is getting more and more expensive…Even more considering that the industry is a little bit more structured than before.
It makes sense to go to a fashion school at a fashion capital anyway…

But I think today rich kids who just want the prestige usually go to CSM rather than French schools.

But yes, going to a fashion school is the same that going to a business school. And it can be worse because it’s even more time consuming because it’s a field that takes a lot in a personal time too. So you need a financial support…

 

[Irere]

Yes but education anyway is getting more and more expensive…Even more considering that the industry is a little bit more structured than before.
It makes sense to go to a fashion school at a fashion capital anyway…

But I think today rich kids who just want the prestige usually go to CSM rather than French schools.

But yes, going to a fashion school is the same that going to a business school. And it can be worse because it’s even more time consuming because it’s a field that takes a lot in a personal time too. So you need a financial support…

Isn’t it just easier to be friends with a rapper? Or better yet, just be a rapper? Or is that just Louis Vuitton?

 

[Alquimista]

The fashion European community, particularly Parisian and Italian isn’t very large. There are a lot of people knowing each other, a lot of people coming out of esteemed studios.
You have headhunters who goes to fashion schools or festivals/contests but coming from a studio from a good designer is actually such a testament to someone’s supposed talent, standards and professionalism that it’s understandable to see why they are following that route.

LinkedIn can be interesting to keep up with the activities of some people in the industry following a news for example but I don’t think it’s that useful.

And in reality, schools students are great for studios. And not all schools are luxury or for rich kids. What is interesting is that some schools open doors for internships through their old graduate who became stars. Someone like Alexandre Mattiussi went to a public school, Duperre. The you have Studio Berçot and IFM who are maybe less glamorous than CSM or La Cambre (I don’t think Parsons has the same prestige today) but who are also efficient.

I think the standards are higher in French schools anyway because the technical side is still valued when at CSM for example, it’s all for creativity. And there’s anyway an ecosystem to nurture talents in France. But it’s tougher.
Jacquemus dropped the ball when he left school but maybe judging by his trajectory, he made the right choice.

Understandable but lazy. If they want fresh ideas, new blood, they should cast a wider net.

And why would linkedin not be helpful? Is there something special about fashion that linkedin can't accomodate? Sorry, but this hiring process based on connections, friends, lovers is so primitive and can bring the worst vices into a business. Not a fan.

I saw a video about the embroiders in India who worked secretly for Dior for years, and now Dior is publicly acnoleging their work, etc. I mean, think about a girl from India who does embroidery really well and how a online platform like linkedin or Behance could help her find a job in Paris or something. Talent is everywhere, Lola. The world is much bigger than CSM or the french schools. Even France is bigger than Paris, as I think you know more than me.

The industry's narrow point of view can only lead to us here speculating about a mature designer's new job.