I feel like OTB is looking to him for the theatrics. Not on the same level as Dior, but a marked difference from what's going on now. I think the smartest thing Galliano can do is scale the theatrics back and in a way, regress back to those days when he had less. Find that resourceful spirit and just forget about what it felt like to have your hand out and just get whatever you wanted.
John Galliano - Designer
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I feel like OTB is looking to him for the theatrics. Not on the same level as Dior, but a marked difference from what's going on now. I think the smartest thing Galliano can do is scale the theatrics back and in a way, regress back to those days when he had less. Find that resourceful spirit and just forget about what it felt like to have your hand out and just get whatever you wanted.
But I hope it'll worth the wait!I keep wondering about the reason for the appointment.. why take someone who is so obviously on the complete opposite spectrum tastewise and put him into a house that has such a strong identity? The only explanation I can come up with is that MMM must have had real problems- why else would someone take such a risk?
^i think that might have been a big reason that led them to this decision but maybe also given how circus-like it's become between the labels of MMM,they needed some real cohesive leadership. you know i've been mulling on this and i know many who see this on the surface will think they were polar opposites and in certain,very specific ways they were(certainly in terms of galliano's extravagance and pandering to fashion) but they also shared a lot in common...MM's knack for contrary and eccentric textures....his tailoring....his dressmaking skills....the humour.....those are all qualities that galliano shared during his career and i think if he can bring all those attributes to the fore again and interpret them within MMM's world,this could turn out to be a wonderfully delightful experience.
btw,everyone wondering about blazy....i suppose this also means recently hired creative director ivana omazic is out too?
btw,everyone wondering about blazy....i suppose this also means recently hired creative director ivana omazic is out too?
tatouejeremie
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because renzo rosso wants to be the bad boy of fashion, and thinks he's punk by doing this.
anyway, i'd love to be proven wrong but i don't think this will end well.
thank heavens for vetements!
iclawhands
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VersaceVixen009
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I think whats also exciting is because what John does is lacking in the fashion industry right now. When he was at Dior, John did stick to the house's signature silhouette and materials, but he added his own touch of eccentricity and own taste into it as well. With the exception of Frida at Gucci, Alber at Lanvin and maybe some credit to Dundas at Pucci, there are not many designers able to handle the equilibrium. Hedi has destroyed YSL (excuse me, Saint Laurent), Olivier has turned Balmain into a harlot dress factory, and since 2009, Karl has lost his touch with this ability. While Im not familiar with the history and signature work of Margiela, Im sure John will continue his ability of maintaining an equilibrium.
Even at his most eccentric "avant-garde", Galliano's design sensibility is very much British punk in nature, Saville Row derivative, and history-scavenged, eg. Vivienne Westwood, McQueen,..it might be a St Martin pedigree. Martin Margiela is from the Antwerp Academy, the continental avant-garde is entirely different and centered on a more Modernist pedigree, bolder construction, shapes, minimalist in attitude, less is more, etc. Both incorporate humor and wit, but they are very different. Galliano's is theatrical, MM's is dry, deadpan and always a surprise.
you're absolutely right
and looking at the last few Galliano shows, what I would really love is the House taking on an ex-Martin Margiela as Artistic Director.. wouldn't that be the most exciting and inspired decision ever? I would have said M. Margiela himself but that is probably absolutely impossible
WilliamsLe010919
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Galliano is building up his team at MMM. Seriously, Jan 2015 can't come soon enough!
you're absolutely right
and looking at the last few Galliano shows, what I would really love is the House taking on an ex-Martin Margiela as Artistic Director.. wouldn't that be the most exciting and inspired decision ever? I would have said M. Margiela himself but that is probably absolutely impossible
It would be exciting but I suspect also distressing for both Houses.
I wish both would return to their homes where they both belong, and Paris FW would get really exciting again.
Phuel
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This isn't 2000. Times have changes, attitudes have changes, and people and priorities in the industry have changed. Commerce is priority with creativity shoved towards the back nowadays. Ideally, I would love to see Margiela and Galliano still doing their things under their own label-- hell, I'd love for Helmut, Ann and Jil to be still doing their thing. But designers, even the strong one, are hardly at the same place now that they were over a decade ago. It's hard to predict if Margiela would still be going strong had he been still at it now in 2015...
And, if a designer is at a stage in their career, their life, when they feel they're no longer into the creative process-- and be a part of the system, and it's a system that's not easy to break away from, then it's best they bow out, as Gaultier has done recently. I was watching his past shows, from the late-80s to the late-90s, and the brand of originality, energy, attitude-- not to mention the most exquisite and progressive cuts and styling, that I still see being used in today's fashion and shows by some of the leaders now, is completely unrivaled. The man was a visionary. But, seeing his offerings from the last handful of years, is quite shocking at how hollow and uninspired they've been. So, had Margiela and Galliano been still designing under their own label, that could have been the same outcome for them. So I'm not convinced they would still be the leaders they were. Galliano definitely were showing signs of fatigue and repetitiveness in his last collections, both under his own label and for Dior.
We often idealize a designer when they've bowed out, passed on and imagine them to be still plugging away as progressively, with as much influence as they had when they were at their best. They're only human, and to run out of ideas, to lose the passion, the drive-- or just to want to change in direction, is understandable. Maybe Margiela would have evolved his aesthetic to be more traditionally feminine, even hyper-feminine, like Galliano's signature, had he been still designing. And maybe Galliano is at a stage in his life now where he's less interested in the spectacle and the hyper-femininity, and want to explore and dedicate to the more artisanal, and more raw side of himself-- which would fit well with what the MMM direction could possibly be...
Designers change, they evolve, sometimes run of of steam, sometimes devolve. I still miss Helmut and his unique vision of fashion, which I feel has yet met a match to this day in fashion. But, I'm glad he's left this industry behind him, when his heart is no longer into it. Same for Margiela. And I'm glad Galliano's having a chance to return in a different form, because that whole spectacle at Dior was a caricature of what fashion is, and he had become a cartoon of himself in his last days at that house.
What excites me about fashion is the unexpected from such great names, and with Galliano at MMM, that's pretty exciting and unexpected pairing. They're not the one-dimensional Versace, Dolce and Karl types. They're both mavericks at heart and capable of so much more than what they're known for. I'm not ready to pigeon-hole them.
It's about time something exciting, maybe even something inspiring-- something wild, may just about to be awakened in fashion again, because... it's been a pretty uneventful time in fashion right now.
And, if a designer is at a stage in their career, their life, when they feel they're no longer into the creative process-- and be a part of the system, and it's a system that's not easy to break away from, then it's best they bow out, as Gaultier has done recently. I was watching his past shows, from the late-80s to the late-90s, and the brand of originality, energy, attitude-- not to mention the most exquisite and progressive cuts and styling, that I still see being used in today's fashion and shows by some of the leaders now, is completely unrivaled. The man was a visionary. But, seeing his offerings from the last handful of years, is quite shocking at how hollow and uninspired they've been. So, had Margiela and Galliano been still designing under their own label, that could have been the same outcome for them. So I'm not convinced they would still be the leaders they were. Galliano definitely were showing signs of fatigue and repetitiveness in his last collections, both under his own label and for Dior.
We often idealize a designer when they've bowed out, passed on and imagine them to be still plugging away as progressively, with as much influence as they had when they were at their best. They're only human, and to run out of ideas, to lose the passion, the drive-- or just to want to change in direction, is understandable. Maybe Margiela would have evolved his aesthetic to be more traditionally feminine, even hyper-feminine, like Galliano's signature, had he been still designing. And maybe Galliano is at a stage in his life now where he's less interested in the spectacle and the hyper-femininity, and want to explore and dedicate to the more artisanal, and more raw side of himself-- which would fit well with what the MMM direction could possibly be...
Designers change, they evolve, sometimes run of of steam, sometimes devolve. I still miss Helmut and his unique vision of fashion, which I feel has yet met a match to this day in fashion. But, I'm glad he's left this industry behind him, when his heart is no longer into it. Same for Margiela. And I'm glad Galliano's having a chance to return in a different form, because that whole spectacle at Dior was a caricature of what fashion is, and he had become a cartoon of himself in his last days at that house.
What excites me about fashion is the unexpected from such great names, and with Galliano at MMM, that's pretty exciting and unexpected pairing. They're not the one-dimensional Versace, Dolce and Karl types. They're both mavericks at heart and capable of so much more than what they're known for. I'm not ready to pigeon-hole them.
It's about time something exciting, maybe even something inspiring-- something wild, may just about to be awakened in fashion again, because... it's been a pretty uneventful time in fashion right now.
to be perfectly honest,MM toward the end his ideas did start to evolve a bit more....as quirky as it was at its core it still was beginning to lean toward a more glamorous side. and we can't have a conversation like this without mentioning the fact that he did sell a pretty good portion of his company to rosso in the first stages,so for me that was already a telltale sign that things were on the the path of change and perhaps MM was growing more and more disenchanted with the business. as much as i would love to see MM make a comeback myself,unfortunately,rosso and these owner seem to have a different approach in mind for MMM....more commercial...more mainstream attention. i don't think any former apprentice could work in this new environment frankly,knowing the standards they worked from with MM.....it would be like sacrilege.
dancorpse
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Well saying! I'm really feeling the downgrade of runway during the 10 years, sadly commerce speaks louder than anything nowadays, we need something exciting and artistic urgently!
Phuel
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Aligning himself with the Diesel empire may have been a decision made from the potential to have secure investment in his experimentations and distributions, and to have access to the latest and greatest in technologies, rather than to be more commercial.
Who really knows what the Diesel empire promised him, and with no words ever from Margiela, we'll never know. I think the technologies and financial investments were what Helmut and Jil were drawn to with their deals with the Prada Group. So I definitely would not hold that move against Margiela. I loved his work with Gaultier, and even more so with Hermes. I think Margiela + Hermes was the strongest, most directional pairing: Who would have thought that the most outsider, most unconventional, most gritty and raw of all high fashion designer at the time, would have been so perfect for the most luxurious, most old-world, of all the labels?
I think it all comes down to the thoughtfulness, intelligence, and genuine talent of the designer-- and once his head is cleared and in a healthy state of mind, I do believe Galliano is all these things. So here we go again-- just like Margiela + Hermes made fashion history, I think it's very possible that Galliano + MMM could create the same magic...
In a time when overhyped, but much much much lesser talents like Alexander Wang, Jeremy Scott and JW Anderson are celebrated, and heading old labels, it's so great to see a strong talent like Galliano getting a break-- and with MMM? Something (possibly) wickedly cut this way comes...
C'mon Scotty baby, let's be less suspicious of Renzo and just pretend like he really wants to bring back talent and vision-- even if we know that's probably not true and it's really all just about selling MMM by Galliano jeans, bags and sunglasses. LOOOOOOOL
i'll always be suspicious of corporatists,phuel....always have,always will. i think also what fed my suspicion was the disparity of MMM's quality between the time he was on his own and after joining diesel,it was downgraded considerably and of course his sales expanded. and also the numerous rumours that there were some differences between he,the owners and rosso creatively,that led to his departure. can't really ignore it considering it's more often that not about the bottom line with these people. and how else can you explain their association with mass market like the H&M endeavour,moleskin,a line of perfume sold at the mcdonald's of cosmetics,sephora?? i'm not taking anything away from the anticipation of galliano because i'm as curious and rational about it but MMM for what's been said for a while now,it's been struggling financially and galliano despite the negative image of late,will bring some attention and perhaps some money to the company.
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btw,reading that article about who he's bringing along,kind of worries me a little. i mean particularly poaching mustiere from of all labels cavalli....not exactly somebody you'd expect to have anything in common aesthetically with MMM. i really hope john doesn't turn this into some pompous,brash and egocentric galliano/dior 2.0.
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