From today's WWD
Thursday, March 24, 2005
Juicy Grows Up and Outward
By Lauren DeCarlo and Emily Holt
NEW YORK — Pamela Skaist-Levy and Gela Taylor are toying with the game of free association.
When a consumer hears the word, “Juicy,” Skaist-Levy and Taylor, co-founders and co-designers of the brand, want more than a terry cloth tracksuit to come to mind.
“We wanted to design a full collection,” Taylor said. “We are constantly expanding the line. People just think of us as tracksuits and Ts, but for fall, we’ve gotten into wovens, tweeds and wools and Prince of Wales checks.” The collection also houses full suitings and fur-accented outerwear. The wholesale range of the collection is between $18 and $585.
This fall the brand is also offering a more high-end selection of accessories. It will be the first season the firm uses real exotic skins like Louisiana alligator for handbags and sources all its leathers from Italy. Exotic skin bags will wholesale from $400 to $900. The more fashion-directed leather bags with jewelry detailing wholesale from $200 to $500. Juicy will continue to produce its perhaps most well known line of logo-laden velour and leather bags that wholesale from $60 to $200.
In terms of jewelry, Juicy is expanding its collection beyond the signature charm bracelet. Big statement necklaces, hoop earrings and layered, busy-looking bracelets wholesale from $20 to $100. Semiprecious stones will be introduced for holiday.
Last November, Michelle Sanders was brought in as vice president and fashion director. Sanders, the former accessories director at Vogue, focuses primarily on accessories for the company, but she is, as Skaist-Levy put it, “another pair of eyes” overseeing the collections. Sanders is based here, while Skaist-Levy and Taylor are in Los Angeles.
“This was a brand that was known for terry tracksuits in summer and velour tracksuits in winter,” Sanders said in Juicy Couture’s 6,000-square-foot showroom on the 16th floor of the Empire State Building here. “The brand is still youthful in spirit, but it’s for the consumer who feels young, but may not actually be so young.”
The six-month-old showroom is a wide open space that looks even bigger than its square footage because of the strategic placement of mirrors throughout. It’s like a fun house in that reflections are often mistaken as real walls. Juicy’s signature colors of pink, white and green take center stage and freshly cut flowers compete with tubereuse Diptyque candles as the room’s official scent. Jars of Smarties, peppermint candies and lollipops scattered on tables and countertops provide the final touch.
“We have a full collection now,’’ Taylor said. “It was time for us to get in the Empire State Building.”
Rebecca Blair joined Juicy in February 2004 as the vice president and general manager of merchandise and sales. She was previously at the Gucci Group. “For 2005, we’ll grow 30 percent over last year for women’s apparel,” Blair said. “We predict the wholesale volume of women’s, men’s and kids’ wear to reach $200 million for 2005.”
“To me, Juicy is the Chanel of the contemporary world,” Blair said. “If you stand on the floor of Bergdorf Goodman on a Saturday, you’ll see women with their daughters and granddaughters buying Juicy. It’s similar to the Chanel experience.”
Blair believes it’s Skaist-Levy and Taylor’s free-spirited personalities that draw people to the brand. “They really spark an emotional chord with the consumer and that’s something that translates internationally.”
In addition to the new showroom, the first Juicy Couture specialty store opened at Caesars Palace Forum Shops in Las Vegas in October. Swimwear launched in August, and Juicy Couture Barbies made their debut just in time for the holidays. Shoes, sunglasses and a fragrance are set to be introduced for 2006.
Sanders believes Juicy will continue to grow and encompass more facets of women’s lives thanks in part to Skaist-Levy and Taylor’s vision.
“Other lines at the contemporary level don’t have a visionary at the top of their brand, like we do with Pam and Gela,” Sanders said. “The definition, to me, of fashion is what people are wearing. This market is driving the industry. Eighty percent of people aren’t wearing Balenciaga. The contemporary level these days includes every age and every demographic.”
Juicy is also trying to lease showroom space in an historic building in the Mayfair section of London. And a handful of freestanding Juicy Couture stores are in the works, but neither Skaist-Levy nor Taylor could comment on the exact locations.
“We’ll add just a few here and there,” Taylor said, laughing.