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Discussion in 'Designers and Collections' started by faust, Feb 5, 2004.
That's the book I was referring too, I love that book! It just came out when I was in Belgium. I saw it in Stijl, a great Brussels boutique, and I was toying with the idea to buy it in Flemish language. I'm sure you have "Belgian Fashion Design" too
And a wider perspective...
dying for the first jacket which was ALL made out of patchwork pieces, very close to what i'd call modern couture
You notice in that first picture it looks as if Kirsten Pieters fainted
But I adore his presentations. Almost all of them have been brilliant. He reminds me so much of a fashion version of a Hitchcock film. Just the spooky stillness of them seem tremendously intense. They're always so cerebral and calm,though.
Another thing I love is his use of girls off the street. They all,even if professional,look like regular girls. I like that alot.
Faust*,oh but I do
i know i was there for the presentation adn it was quite a shock, but so beautiful in every way, i admire Jurgi's inventiveness, he's totally original
Lena,I so wish I could find pictures from the collection he presented on scaffolding. I think,Spring 2000,it was.
But so true. Although,he himself doesn't think its couture. I think he's the ultimate craftsman though.
very good comparison-my god -scott-those pictures are amazing. We never see much of the avante garde here in NY. It's very comercially driven in the US. That mirror collection is the first time I heard of Jurgi and that's the collection I pulled pieces of to shoot.
I think the last cool fashion event in NY was years ago when McQueen was here.
I would love to be in Europe, but they don't really welcome outsiders. You guys are lucky over there-creativity is supported and embraced. I know it's hard everywhere, but I've worked for mostly foreign publications because American magazines don't usually do "edgy".
I don't know the stylist who's name you mentioned, but contacting Jurgi and sending out your CV is great. Just keep going and eventually something with happen. That's how it works...you never know...
Teehee that cat sweater
I love lvoe lvoe the girls in eggs collection, I ahd a simialre idea , I think that presentation is one of hsi best for me personally.
I love teh girls on mirrors as well, its so stark and kind of creepy and has this kind of natural/technical feeling. Its beautiful
Scott, thank you so much for posting those photos! I really like his clothes. Esp. because of the details and craft (like the one Lena called "modern couture") plus they are all so wearable and aside from that, his presentations are brilliant.
Thank you again, Scott, for introducing us to this designer.
Igni*,you're so very welcome. I think its high time Jurgi garnered a little bit more than what he's got so far. Granted,he's always worked quietly and always liked it that way but the man started his line in '96 so...its about time.
I should have used a couple of these mirror pics for the details and craft thread
Softegrey,its so true. Although,we've got the talent,none are hardly being recognized here. Funny thing is,you say they don't welcome outsiders,our talent seems to be embraced better over there than here. Not to sound anti,but frankly,I feel I can garner myself more substance there. And since I want to be a visualist rather than just a photo dresser,my ideas will be more appreciated.
I mean,what you were saying about Jurgi,you just don't see that type of stuff here,at all. Even in the good that we have. Maybe,its the support structure we have towards more commercial commodities or that people just don't care about creativity,expression and personal vision here.
I really love Jurgi's work! Simple, basic, but still interesting!
You are hitting a nerve with me, I've been analyzing the subject for years. I think it's the following (and if I may sound anti-american, so be it - I know I definitely don't mean to):
I think the problem in the US culture is the general lack of esthetics. It's not just abot not being able to see fashion as art, or the beauty of a piece of clothing. I think it's the inability to see beauty at all. Having gone through education in both Russia and here, and having been to Europe many times, I have a pretty strong basis for comparison. I think the basic education is at fault in the US (not to be confused with higher education, which is excellent). It's on a very low level compared with other developed countries. Kids here don't have the sense of beauty that is the undercurrent of all culture, not just fashion. Hence, you don't see that captivation with arts that you see in Europe. I mean, you have arts here, but most of it is commercial bullsh*t. It's done solely for the money. I think in order to create something of beauty, appreciation for esthetics is a prerequisite. The second factor is the over-commericalism and inability to make an independent buying decision by an average customer. The average US customer (who did not receive the prerequisite appreciation for esthetics) is conditioned by the media since early childhood not to make his own choice. He is bombardered by advertising (you MUST have this, you MUST have that). In such an environment, what can we have here? Just look at the major US designers, honestly, what have they done? Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, John Varvatos, and yea Marc Jacobs (give me a break from his blandness, please) - are these the names you associate with innovation, creativity, beauty? Or are these safe, commercial, bleak masters of advertising? I think the latter. So, I beleive that the educaion that does not create esthetical values, coupled with consumerism is at fault here.
All this said, of course I understand that there are exceptions, but I am speaking about the general public. Just take a walk through the NYC's meatpacking district, and you'll see some gorgeous clothes by local NYC designers. But do they get world-wide recognition, even on Jurgi's level? Do you think if Raf Simons, with all his whims, started out in the US, he'd make it? I don't think so.
Pheew, ok, my outburst is over
excellent outburst- I grew up in and around NYC so I have nothing to compare to the US.. I do have European parents though, so that could have something to do with the fact that I haven't been been brain-washed by the media.
You may be on to something...
I think you are onto something. I mean,my god,its the only place in the world where you'll find a museum next door to a KMart.
Good thing,I've learned through fashion and the aesthetics of Belgians and the Japanese to not to succomb to such trifle. Also they've taught to look at fashion as a form of expression through the form of emotions and not superficial dribble. Education here,I have to say,teaches one nothing but to make good grades and sell yourself to the corporate world. That's exactly the reason so much of our society is so bigoted to people that are eccentric. Its almost a crime to be different; not in just the way you dress but also the way one expresses his or herself through whatever medium they pursue.
excellent turn to this topic, thanks for your comments faust
yeah , I agree. I wonder if stylists are used so much by entertainers in Japan. Nothing against stylists. I just get so tired of american celebrities being styled -- sometimes I'd rather see their true feelings through their clothing selections. I know some will be gag-worthy, but that comes with it.
As I get older, I give less of a damn about what other people think of my clothing choices, finally I'm free...or freer.
Kids here are not free...rebels with no cause
The problem is american kids are being deprived of arts...school budgets are loosing art programs left and right. Popular culture is all they get...and its either boring or vulgar. Its all going to fast for them to see beauty before them.
Excellent point, faust.