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model_mom said:Marie Antoinette's Fierce and Fearless Fashion
October 15, 2006
The Queen’s Wardrobe
Réunion des Musées Nationaux/Art Resource, N.Y.
By LIESL SCHILLINGER
It could be a tabloid cover story: A 14-year-old girl is wrenched from her mother’s home and transported across state lines, stripped bare and paraded before a crowd of jaded adults. The girl’s only comfort, a pug dog named Mops, is taken from her, and as strange eyes assess her nudity with frank stares, she breaks down in tears. It sounds like a situation that calls for an Amber Alert: what it actually is, though, is the factual record of what happened when Archduchess Maria Antonia Josepha Johanna of the Austrian Hapsburgs was handed over to the Bourbon court in 1770 to become the bride of the dauphin, Louis Auguste, the future King Louis XVI of France. Relinquishing her nationality with her clothes, she donned a “gleaming ceremonial gown made from cloth-of-gold” which transformed her into a human embodiment of the French monarchy. With that dress, she took on a new identity and a new name: Marie Antoinette, dauphine of France.
In “Queen of Fashion,” her suspenseful, remarkably well-documented and surprisingly humanizing account of the role style played in Marie Antoinette’s fate and legacy, Caroline Weber, who teaches at Barnard College and is an expert on the Terror, adds texture, shimmer and depth to an icon most of us thought we knew already. The traumatic wardrobe change was a diplomatic formality — a tradition known in royal circles as la remise — which the girl’s redoubtable mother, Maria Theresa (the Empress of Austria, Queen of Hungary and an ancien régime role model for 20th-century stage mothers), had not just sanctioned, but hailed. “You must absolutely lend yourself to what the court is accustomed to doing,” she wrote in a note to her daughter. “All eyes will be fixed on you.” This event augured what was to come at the French court at Versailles. For the rest of Marie Antoinette’s life, getting dressed would never be the private affair it had been before her extreme makeover — noblewomen would watch her put on her clothes in the morning and take them off at night, and squabble over the privilege of handing the queen her underthings. But in two decades, the ceremonial toilette would be remaindered, as the country stripped their adopted queen of her finery again, and led her to the guillotine in a white shift, to pay the ultimate price for her failure to correctly gauge What Not to Wear in revolutionary France.
Hundreds of books have been written about the doomed queen — from Stefan Zweig’s famous biography of the early 1930’s and Antonia Fraser’s superb recent “Marie Antoinette: The Journey” to the new novel “Abundance” by Sena Jeter Naslund (the author of “Ahab’s Wife”). In “Abundance,” the remise affords the occasion for the child bride to indulge in Barbara-Cartland-issue reveries about the “pleasant rosebuds” on her young chest, and about the masculine allure of her groom-to-be. “There must be other words than ‘tall’ and ‘strong’ to think of,” the heroine daydreams, recalling her mother’s birds-and-bees lecture on the “engulfing transports of wifely love,” at which she had “squirmed with delight.” But she can’t think of any. (As Weber shows, “nearsighted, maladroit and grossly overweight” would have been closer to the case — Louis XVI was an ineffectual 18th-century emo boy.) Fictionalizing a life that is already so surreal is usually a vain endeavor (Shakespeare is one of the few who regularly pulled it off); so it’s best in reading Naslund’s romance to think of it as a kind of “Forever Amber” punted across the channel from Restoration England to Versailles. But the tributes don’t stop with books; there have been plays, operas, films and couture gowns devoted to the conehead-pouf-coiffed sovereign — from a Rochas frock in a “Let Them Eat Cake!” themed window at Barneys last Christmas to John Galliano’s 2000 “Masquerade and Bondage” collection for Christian Dior, which included a hoop-skirted “Marie Antoinette” gown printed with an image of the queen frolicking in shepherdess garb. This month, 213 years after her execution, Marie Antoinette has been resurrected by Kirsten Dunst in a lavish Sofia Coppola movie that portrays the Austrian as a vapid valley girl with bonbons in her cheeks and nary a thought in her brain. Vogue put the star on its cover last month, with the headline: “Kirsten Dunst as the Teen Queen Who Rocked Versailles,” and the director told the magazine that she sees her subject mostly as a confused young woman trying to make her place in the world. “I feel that Marie Antoinette is a very creative person,” Coppola said. A dozen glossy pages were devoted to showcasing frothy 2006 couture confections that revived the “teen queen’s” glamour. It goes to show: if you take the long view, no press is bad press. But Weber reminds us that it doesn’t feel that way when it’s your neck on the slab.
When you think of Marie Antoinette, chances are you picture a simpering, rosy-lipped Lladro figurine of a woman, wearing one of the outfits she favored: an opulently panniered, plunge-necked, stiffly corseted satin gown; or a frilly Bo Peep shepherdess costume; or (in her pared-down Rousseauian mode) a simple white muslin gown, loosely belted at the waist — a trend French society condemned but soon copied. Her hair you undoubtedly imagine swept up in her signature headdress, the powdered pouf. But Weber shows that the child bride who arrived at Versailles (years before the craze for her poufs caught on) was no coquettish sophisticate. Friendless, conspired against and viewed with suspicion by the xenophobic, malicious French court (including her husband’s close relations), she had to think fast to secure her position as consort to the future king. The heir apparent, a shy, 15-year-old virgin, was unwilling to consummate the marriage (it took his wife seven years of pillow talk to win him over). Without an heir to shore up her claim to the throne, the dauphine had to invent a way to project power. She did it, the author suggests, by making herself a trompe l’oeil armature of fine clothes and accessories, as a posturing animal might do in the wild. “Through carefully selected, unconventional outfits and accessories, she cultivated what she later called an ‘appearance of [political] credit,’ ” Weber argues. As the queen later said, “I allow the public to believe that I have more credit [with the King] than I do in reality.” Lacking perspicacity, she failed to understand that, in France, kings’ wives were supposed to be as peahens to the gaudy peacock husband; elegant, but drab and unshowy. Fine feathers were reserved for kings’ mistresses — like Mme. Du Barry, and Mme. de Pompadour before her. But in her first months at Versailles, Marie Antoinette was protected by her youth, beauty and vivacity.
Championed by the debauched King Louis XV, she felt (wrongly) free to chase butterflies in the palace gardens with young ladies from her entourage; to mock the dour old crones in the court; to snub Louis XV’s scheming, well-connected ex-poule mistress, Du Barry; and to refuse to wear the torturously confining royal grand corps corset. She delighted Louis XV and thrilled the curious public by taking up riding, wearing men’s breeches and a riding coat, and having a portrait of herself painted astride a rearing stallion — like her hero Louis XIV, the Sun King. Her mother fired off a Cassandran warning from Vienna to respect court protocol: “If you do not heed my advice, you will regret it, but it will be too late.” By then, it already was. The baleful court watched over the dauphine like predacious spiders, awaiting the chance to lunge at a glittering bluebottle and sink in their fangs.
The men and women of Versailles pursued a relentless whisper campaign against the newcomer, and after the death of Louis XV in 1774 and the coronation of Louis XVI in 1775, as a mood of anti-Royalist rage spread across impoverished France, the queen’s reputation was dragged through the gutter by cartoonists who accused her of profligacy, frivolity, nymphomania, lesbianism and incest, among other vices. France’s financial woes were laid at her jeweled slippers, even though her extravagances were negligible compared with the huge deficits the country incurred during the American Revolution or what her brothers-in-law squandered on “gambling, courtesans and elegant clothing” in 1777. But according to Weber’s theory, the image of influence and splendor Marie Antoinette had carefully crafted for herself, using fashion as her buttress, was too powerful to blot from the public’s imagination. As her mother had forecast, she was “hurtling toward an abyss.” In 1787, she rationed her pin money, scrambling to restore her image, but by then, she was out of touch, and out of time.
On July 14, 1789, French citizens stormed the Bastille (Louis XVI, oblivious, spent the day hunting, and wrote in his journal, “Nothing”); three months later, an angry mob stampeded through Versailles and smashed the queen’s mirrors and slashed her bed to shreds, not realizing she’d fled her boudoir. The royal family then moved to the Tuileries, in Paris, and tried to lie low; Marie Antoinette even tried to pander to popular feeling by sporting patriotic tricolor garb. But like a modern-day celebrity forced by reversal of fortune to live among crowds that had once both worshiped and reviled her, she was bound to stand out. When she tried to leave the country in 1791 with her family, there were no private planes, no helicopters, just a coach. She didn’t stand a chance. Spotted in Varennes, captured, brought back to Paris and imprisoned, she continued to order subdued but still stylish outfits to wear in captivity. Even after her husband was executed, Marie Antoinette defied her captors by ordering mourning dress, seeking solace in the illusion that had set her on her unlucky course: the notion that by controlling her image, she could master her fate. Bound for the chopping block, deprived of her widow’s weeds, she still contrived to have a clean-lined martyr’s costume smuggled into her cell. She was the first woman of whom it truthfully could be said that she shopped until she dropped.
Liesl Schillinger, a New York-based arts writer, is a regular contributor to the Book Review.