MET Costume Institute Gala 2015: "China: Through the Looking Glass"

[Miss Dalloway]

I think this could end up being filled with some clueless celebs, and their stylists, and in the end be offensive. I hope it doesn't go that far.

But would be wonderful if any dared to wear Chinese designers that are not Global names.

 

[dizzytacks]

The red carpet will be a mess in terms of insensitive cultural appropriation. People are probably going to attend with chopsticks in their hair. Heck, I wonder if the exhibit is going to feature any Chinese designers or just Western designers whose collections were Chinese-influenced.

Perplexed why they chose Jennifer Lawrence to co-chair. YES for Gong Li, and surprised Zhang Ziyi isn't co-chairing.

i completely agree with all of the above! This exhibition makes me nervous although i am hopeful that the show will honour the work of chinese couturiers to mitigate the blatant appropriation that the blind will revel in...

 

[Chanelcouture09]

But when have the attendees ever stuck to the dress code, really? very few dare to even tackle the theme in their choice of outfit for the night...

 

[Chanelcouture09]

Also, Andrew Bolton did state the exhibition wasn't focused on the east but more how the west has been influenced by its Rich history and showcasing the highlights of that collaboration albeit slightly abstracted but a constant point of reference for the collections.

 

[CommanderTMugler]

I was thinking of Armani's F/W 2011 couture collection as well as Dior's S/S 2007 Couture show and possibly seeing some of the pieces there, then I remembered they're a nod to Japan.

I can totally see people mixing cultures up, it's for the best they steer clear of the theme. It's actually pretty rare that someone nails it these days so why bother. Maybe Fan Bingbing will be the one who will pull it off. It would be nice to see some of her costumes from "Empress of China"

 

[kokobombon]

I was thinking if women won´t go dressed with what westerns think of traditional clothes (cuts and prints) what are their choices? specially for young actresses.
So I was googling subcultures, something that can inspire stylists to not be too literal and these are what I found that I´d like to see:

Tuhao: Tuhaoes are covered with luxurious branded items.

I´m thinking logos? Versace´s latest collection comes to mind.

Shamate: A word to describe teenagers and people in their early 20s who tries to challenge the society with their exaggerated hairstyle, weired makeup, and cheap clothing.

Moschino, maybe?

 

[gilsa0870]

^ Haha, as a Chinese, I like your way to explain these two words.

"Tuhao" actually refers to people who are new money, and has other traditional meanings. "Shamate" is a term portrays youngsters who come from rural area with bizarre haircut/dress sense, illiterate/semi-illiterate, and seek for working opportunities in big cities...

But if someone can get any inspiration from them, that will be extremely interesting.

 

[VersaceVixen009]

I agree with Chanelcouture09, hardly anyone follows the theme. I'm predicting a lot of Valentino (especially couture), de la Renta and Lanvin all from these past two recent seasons to be worn. Wouldn't be surprised if there's a lot of Versace as well.

 

[Benn98]

^^I´d love to see someone wearing Robert Cavalli´s blue dragon print from FW2005 (the first image). I think it´s a nice homage to their art form but it´s not overly cliched or offensive

I've noticed after the McQueen gala none of the celebs wear a piece from the actual exhibition. So maybe it's a rule, and it makes sense. Roberto Cavalli could maybe design something similar, and diffuse some of the elements.

I was thinking of Armani's F/W 2011 couture collection as well as Dior's S/S 2007 Couture show and possibly seeing some of the pieces there, then I remembered they're a nod to Japan.

I can totally see people mixing cultures up, it's for the best they steer clear of the theme. It's actually pretty rare that someone nails it these days so why bother. Maybe Fan Bingbing will be the one who will pull it off. It would be nice to see some of her costumes from "Empress of China"

Agree!! I'm expecting a lot from Fan Bingbing. It would be well deserved publicity for the costume team of that series. Indeed, judging by the amount of costumes, quite a few girls can get get a look from the show. The Tang dynasty costumes are so much more flattering to the voluptuous types like Kate Upton etc.
I also think the cheongsams which Ni Ni and the other prostitutes wore in 'The Flowers of War' with Christian Bale had such captivating colours and looked really luxe. Or maybe it was just the excellent photography. That could be an option for some too. The possibilities are endless really.

 

[kokobombon]

^ Haha, as a Chinese, I like your way to explain these two words.

"Tuhao" actually refers to people who are new money, and has other traditional meanings. "Shamate" is a term portrays youngsters who come from rural area with bizarre haircut/dress sense, illiterate/semi-illiterate, and seek for working opportunities in big cities...

But if someone can get any inspiration from them, that will be extremely interesting.

I found those references on a site and just copied/pasted. Had no idea that the references were so off mark, thanks for clarifying.
What would you say are accurate subcultures?

 

[Nomar]

Seriously in love with that McQueen porcelain dress and I can safely say it is one of the most beautiful things I've ever seen. I loved it when I first saw it but never did it cross my mind that it may reference Chinese culture, regardless, it makes me love it even more.

 

[gilsa0870]

I found those references on a site and just copied/pasted. Had no idea that the references were so off mark, thanks for clarifying.
What would you say are accurate subcultures?

No problem.

And what are accurate subcultures? I think what you mentioned above both count. Since today's China changes rather quickly and radically, it seems any kind of subcultures spring up every second in every corner, but a considerable part of them can be criticized as graceless and kitsch. That is why I think your idea that stylists probably could be inspired by Chinese subcultures is cool.

 

[Benn98]

I'm sorry, but are there any notable elements which distinguish these subcultures from it's Western counterparts? If not, then I absolutely do not see how it will even be relevant for this event. or why stylists should replicate it. It would just look like any other 'contemporary' culture, which doesnt really pay tribute to traditional Chinese culture per se. I'd say rather stick to historical periods where one could easily define Chinese elements in dressing, and maybe add a twist to it.

 

[kokobombon]

^I was thinking of ways to dress women outside of traditional chinese culture. What would be a modern take of the culture? I thought that subcultures could be a singular way to pay tribute. Not to copy exactly how they dress but to draw inspiration.

I´m more familiar with japanese subcultures and they´re very distinct to what you see in western ones, I thought maybe chinese will be as different.

these are some japanese subcultures but still you can see my point:

Ganguro

Lolita

lfnista.wordpress.com
wikipedia.org

 

[CommanderTMugler]

I've noticed after the McQueen gala none of the celebs wear a piece from the actual exhibition. So maybe it's a rule, and it makes sense. Roberto Cavalli could maybe design something similar, and diffuse some of the elements.



Agree!! I'm expecting a lot from Fan Bingbing. It would be well deserved publicity for the costume team of that series. Indeed, judging by the amount of costumes, quite a few girls can get get a look from the show. The Tang dynasty costumes are so much more flattering to the voluptuous types like Kate Upton etc.
I also think the cheongsams which Ni Ni and the other prostitutes wore in 'The Flowers of War' with Christian Bale had such captivating colours and looked really luxe. Or maybe it was just the excellent photography. That could be an option for some too. The possibilities are endless really.

The pieces from "Empress of China" would probably be in the actual exhibition and not on the red carpet, it'd be such a hassle.

I remember that movie! The girls looked amazing, so glamorous.

 

[mantra48]

"Chineseness"

As a Chinese who has closely followed fashion since the 1970s and looked before that as well, I find it amusing that when designers (Western and non-Western and including and especially Guo Pei) "do" China or be "Chinese", the references are obvious and very literal - YSL couture 1970s China collection, Tom Ford's last collection for YSL, Armani's China designs, Chanel-Shanghai metiers d'art, Valentino alta moda's and Lagerfeld-Chanel couture's beaded Choiserie pagoda dresses embroidered to look like laquer screens, the extremely literal Cavalli blue and white porcelain dress, the Chanel couture blue and white porcelain Lesage-beaded dresses.

Chinese = coolie hats, pagodas, cheongsams, dragon patterns, Ming/Qing embroidered wave patterns trimmings, coromandel screens, jade accessories, Anna May Wong. I don't find it offensive - just tedious and shallow. This is not design or fashion - just taking a Chinese art book and copying things onto fabric or into a generally recognizable silhoutte. It is still just a mermaid red carpet dress but with a Chinoiserie print.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ But that's fashion.

Fashion is so unlimited in its definition-- and it's always expending, revising, reinterpreted and redefined-- for good and bad. There are no limits, no rules to fashion in its truest sense. When (western) fashion designers are inspired by another culture, whether it's Native American, African or in this case, Chinese, it's interesting to me just how extensive their creativity is capable of-- or not capable of. I don't expect much from someone like Cavalli's Chinese-influences, and that's alright, because he's not that designer who will go beyond the superficial aspects of a cultural's influences in his fashions Just like many designers will just be copying the latest looks in high fashion, and not attempt to lead, or even have a true signature of their own. Just like the Altuzarras, and the Gurungs of the industry.

But then when someone like Gaultier came along, and not just take inspiration from a culture-- and he's been inspired by Chinese designs for at least a few of his collections, he really knows how to interpret and infuse his cultural inspirations with his signature to give us a whole new look-- even a whole new culture that melds East and West, and traditional and concept so beautifully, and so seamless and original. He's able to take it beyond just the expected. McQueen the man did that as well. And Armani's A/W collection from 90/91 was also so brilliantly executed with its Chinese-inspiration. Even the latest collection from Dries with its Chinese influences are so intelligent, thoughtful and fresh without relying on any expected trappings that's been exploited to tedium by lesser designers. But I don't expect every designer to be like Gaultier, McQueen and Dries-- nor want every designer to be like them. Having a broad spectrum of talent and vision, is what I love about fashion.

I'm never offended either if a designer's inspiration from a culture, a people, is just superficial. With someone like Karl, who I think it's only ever superficial, but I never think even with him, he's ever mocking, or disrespectful towards a culture, a people (at least not in his designs). Some are just too overly-sensitive in denouncing cultural-appropriation-- and I kind of really hate that term: It's so divisive.

I'm going to try (very hard) to be positive and look forward to this show, in the best way possible, even if it's only in the most superficial sense that the Chinese-inspiration will be shown.

 

[orchidee]

So basically this is just an exhibition of one of the countless ways (white) Westerners have exploited Asia.

I get that the "looking glass" basically means Western perspectives, but at the very least they could have included traditional Chinese garments from actual Chinese designers to showcase the actual inspiration for the Western designs.

 

[dior_couture1245]

^^The preliminary pictures of the exhibit posted here show side by side examples of Western designers work with historical, period Chinese garments. Don't be so quick to judge.

Fashion is so unlimited in its definition-- and it's always expending, revising, reinterpreted and redefined-- for good and bad. There are no limits, no rules to fashion in its truest sense. When (western) fashion designers are inspired by another culture, whether it's Native American, African or in this case, Chinese, it's interesting to me just how extensive their creativity is capable of-- or not capable of. I don't expect much from someone like Cavalli's Chinese-influences, and that's alright, because he's not that designer who will go beyond the superficial aspects of a cultural's influences in his fashions Just like many designers will just be copying the latest looks in high fashion, and not attempt to lead, or even have a true signature of their own. Just like the Altuzarras, and the Gurungs of the industry.

But then when someone like Gaultier came along, and not just take inspiration from a culture-- and he's been inspired by Chinese designs for at least a few of his collections, he really knows how to interpret and infuse his cultural inspirations with his signature to give us a whole new look-- even a whole new culture that melds East and West, and traditional and concept so beautifully, and so seamless and original. He's able to take it beyond just the expected. McQueen the man did that as well. And Armani's A/W collection from 90/91 was also so brilliantly executed with its Chinese-inspiration. Even the latest collection from Dries with its Chinese influences are so intelligent, thoughtful and fresh without relying on any expected trappings that's been exploited to tedium by lesser designers. But I don't expect every designer to be like Gaultier, McQueen and Dries-- nor want every designer to be like them. Having a broad spectrum of talent and vision, is what I love about fashion.

I'm never offended either if a designer's inspiration from a culture, a people, is just superficial. With someone like Karl, who I think it's only ever superficial, but I never think even with him, he's ever mocking, or disrespectful towards a culture, a people (at least not in his designs). Some are just too overly-sensitive in denouncing cultural-appropriation-- and I kind of really hate that term: It's so divisive.

I'm going to try (very hard) to be positive and look forward to this show, in the best way possible, even if it's only in the most superficial sense that the Chinese-inspiration will be shown.

Such a fabulous, level-headed and intelligent comment, Phuel. Thank you for this post, and thank you for being such a voice of reason. I'm sick of this finger-pointing society we live in...it's so negative, so bitter, so closed-minded, so suspicious, so accusatory and so damning. All in the name of sounding as politically correct as possible.

 

[squilliam]

As someone who's culture has occasionally been used in fashion, I don't mind as long as they don't go after something sacred. Personally I like the more literal interpretations, because I love a lot of these period and traditional clothes but those can't be worn everyday, so I like how some designers modernize these styles so that they can be worn often.