CharlottefromCA
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not sure if this is the right place to put this but.. pretty interesting post from The Imagist
AGAINST THE BRUTAL ODDS
Of the 17 girls (and think about that figure) that emphatically broke through on the SS10 runway market only 6 are holding significant campaign and editorial options at this point. That is an important qualifier..."at this point"...because unlike previous seasons, that circle of power photographers who decide which models cross over from all that runway traction into blue chip work seem to be holding back on their campaign shooting. There is not the usual feeding frenzy to lock up those hyped new faces . No epic "New Faces" edit yet at W, no New Prada Contingent marching through Vogue Italia...yet. This is an indicator that the campaign castings are going to run even more conservatively than in recent years, skewing back to the Raquels, Sashas and Natashas, if there is even a model on the premises. Celebrities are going to continue to take a huge chunk of those choice bookings and new models...? They are certainly going to skew in that very pretty direction in your SS10 books. Though model management should be too elegant and mystical an endeavor to reduce to stats...well... here are the stats. Of the 30% of those new faces holding strong options with powerful photographers, only half will confirm. Which means of that group of :
Deborah Muller
Lisanne de Jong
Patricia Van Der Vliet
Anastasia Kuznetsova
Antonella
Jacquelyn Jablonski
Kate Kosushkina
Mirte Maas
Lindsey Wixson
Frida Gustavasson
Kristy Kaurova
Bergje Heinen
Emily Didonato
Keke Lindgard
Shu Pei
Sharon Kavjian
..only 3 of those girls will be left standing 6 months from now. Those are not bad odds as fashion should be a selective enterprise . I've said it in the past to howls of outrage taht I like this constant turnover, I like the arbitary disposal of new models because I hope it will maen only the best of the best survive. But the critical question is, as a a manger how do you convince clients that your girl is indeed one of those three? The answer to that question used to be the domain of the giants of the trade, IMG and the Women/Supreme structure. But another interesting trend that occurred this season was the breaching of those walls by Marilyn (in representing a girl who banned the opening slot at Prada an honor traditionally battled over by IMG and Women,) New York Models (Patricia), Major (Kristy) , Request (Emily), Wilhelmina (Keke) and One (Deborah).Can these mavericks manage a new girl with the acuity of IMG or Women/Supreme? That is the game that will unfold in the next month.
If as a manager you keep failing to beat the odds, will there be a future for you, your girls or your agency? Models and agents work themselves to exhaustion every season and every season comes the demoralizing realization that all that work and stress yielded no money for either agent or model. And what was the value of that long, 4 city parade of shows? The hope that the visibility thereof gave the girl a fighting chance because US Vogue noticed her or that Steven will pick up the option on her now. 3 out of 17. Place your bets on who you think might have risen to the occasion. You might very well be surprised.