Lola701
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The problem with NG is that he didn´t admit he copied from Kaisik Wong when he launched that 2002 collection. He admitted it when he was caught red-handed. He tried to pass Wong´s designs as his own.
Before that Kaisik affair, designers didn't have to justify themselves on their inspirations or vintage clothes they copied.
NG was the hottest new designer AND, it was the beginning of the incursion of the internet in the fashion industry.
Everything is a matter of context as Dior_Couture said.
Today, copy is not so much of an issue (look at Zuhair Murad career). The Balmain/McQueen for Givenchy happened because it didn't felt like it was done with conviction.
Peter Dundas's first Cavalli collection was almost 70% copied from Azzedine Alaia 80's work and the only person who had an issue with that was Azzedine himself who talked about it in a french magazine.
NG copied the top but that top was also a starting point for a dress, a vest and it did influence several pieces in the collection.
For his first Vuitton collection, he copied a look styled in a magazine but that look make sense in the context of the entire collection.
Maybe i'm more lax about it in certain cases.