All these magazine-curator and fashion film nonsense are such premium cringe.
Phoebe Philo is essentially the lost heiress to Helmut Lang— minus Helmut’s untouchable menswear (…and looking at the hilariously ill custom suit she plopped on Edward, it’s unlikely she’s capable of menswear of Helmut's vision…).
All these people that have come and will be gone soon, have done absolutely nothing in progressing Helmut’s aesthetic and sensibility. None of them get Helmut: They’ve all just been playing Frankenstein and cobbling his designs into some Frankenstein’s Monster of dated gruesomeness. Peter’s been the latest incompetent Dr.Frankenstein. And the worst, frankly. It all looks and feels like cheap knockoffs cutting and pasting Helmut’s signatures into a sloppy whole. He’s a solid enough tailor that was cobbling Yohji/Ann D/Tisci into a decent sportswear whole, that initially did good enough for his own brand; it’s only when he’s somewhat convinced that he’s the new great American hope with his forced silhouette of big shoulders, harem pants, platform boots and strings dangling everywhere that he started to lose the plot. Just do your job of producing decent Yohji/Ann D/Tisci-lite fashions that are solidly constructed, instead of attempting to create aaaaaahhhhhhhhhrt when you’re not an artist and the Helmut Lang label was never art.
The only way for this brand to stand a chance will be if a talent takes it in a new direction with the spirit of OG Helmut at its core. …Like what Phoebe’s doing.