Prada F/W 13.14 Milan

[gossiping]

this is just great. it's so good the embellishment is beautiful and i love the mix of the gingham and the shoes are amaaaazing!

 

[t-rex]

NYTimes

Prada: Raw but Refined

By SUZY MENKES


MILAN — “Raw elegance,” Miuccia Prada said, in one of those cryptic explanations about the Prada show Thursday in Milan.

Did that apply to the lean, checked tweed tailoring with the sly sexuality in a neckline slipping open over bared shoulders? Or maybe the swing of a full Alaïa-style skirt, while the cuffs of the matching jacket were cuddled by sable?

This refined, elegant, luxurious but slightly disturbing collection played with the raw and the refined: rough tweed against the asymmetric fall of a skirt smothered in sequins.

This was a New Romantic Prada of the 1980s kind, as if worn by women relieved to go back to the ease of roomy tailoring — but with a long life, make that “sex life” — behind them.

There was a film noir eeriness about the ragged, soaked hair, the makeup and lipstick faded as if by too many kisses, and the black-and-white backdrop comprising a flight of birds, a cat in a window, occasionally swishing its tail, and the shadow of a woman waiting in a doorway.

A similar set had been used for the men’s show in January, where there was also a prominent theme of checks. But this powerful women’s collection had so much more depth. It was an ode both to a woman in need of a winter wardrobe and to women wanting so much more out of life than just clothes, as beautiful and luxurious as they were with crocodile coats and golden belts.

Perhaps Ms. Prada is the only current designer who can offer a wearable wardrobe while getting under a woman’s skin.

Or as she put it in a wistful conversation: “Romantic is impossible. Decadence is impossible. When you have a fantasy, you have to control it. But you can be passionate about anything.”

She could have been talking about herself — or the clothes.

I see the collection as progressing from all-American farm girl heading out to Hollywood where she makes it big and becomes crazy, murders her hotshot director husband in the rain

 

[Marc10]

HQ


vogue.co.uk

 

[Marc10]

vogue.co.uk

 

[Marc10]

vogue.co.uk

 

[Marc10]

vogue.co.uk

 

[rougevalentino]

Gorgeous and very wearable! Would love a few of those coats in my wardrobe

 

[Hyba_ella]

first Prada collection that I like...I guess y a un debut à tout

 

[vandekamp]

Reminds me of Mildred Pierce.

http://postimage.org/image/i2celiw09/ , this look is definitely something Joan Crawford as Mildred would wear.

 

[ad31214]

It reminded me a bit of the F/W 2010 collection with some of the sequins and fur from F/W 2011 thrown in, but there is a bit more cinematic feeling to this rather than innocent and feminine (f/w 2011) and the sexy, mature f/w 2010 collection. For some reason the collection reminds me a bit of what Fantine and Cosette from Les Miserables would wear in the 2010's.

 

[elle_gb]

It's kind a old glamor; it was pretty though. The off shoulder dresses are very cute.

 

[IsabelMarantBoy]

Definitely one of my favorite shows of the season so far. I love all the fabrications, they either look really luxe and pretty or cozy and expensive (and you can't go wrong with those ) I love that she layered the off the shoulder dresses over plain tee shirts like she did in her Miu Miu fall 2006 show. My only complaint was that I didn't like the shoes. I don't know, maybe I need some better pictures but they just didn't do anything for me at first look.

 

[*ana*]

Just watched the video. What a beautiful collection. Fantastic setting. I love how Miuccia plays with types of woman in her shows - schoolgirl, tropical, futuristic, post-war ladylike, different levels of sexuality, different levels of subversive. I frequently look at the collection and feel like there's more to these women than their surface - maybe a dark story. She's really good at this, she knows how to go beyond the clothes display. I loved the mysterious feel of this show, Suzy Menkes described it really well ("the makeup and lipstick faded as if by too many kisses" ).

 

[dior_couture1245]

It's rare that I dislike a Prada collection. I'm usually the type that falls head over heels immediately after the first blurry photo makes its way online. However, I feel like this time around, I may be one of the many that has to take some getting used to understand and to appreciate what Miuccia has to offer this season.

There are many looks here that I love. Mostly the shrugged-off the shoulder looks - the ones with a more loose, undone sex appeal. I have a harder time liking the skirt suits with the pirate sleeves - I just have a real distaste for trios of tucks like that to create volume. There's something about that particular technique that seems rather amateurish to me.

As a whole, it feels off. The fabrics don't seem to all sit well together, the accessories are incongruous and clunky, some of the volumes and shapes are generally unflattering and awkward...I don't know.

We'll see...I may grow to love all of this. I may not. Either way, I can still appreciate Miuccia's challenging efforts.

 

[Zazie]

I can't see why this collection is being raved about, at all. All of the clothes are exactly the same.. what is this? J.W. Anderson for Prada?
The same asymmetric skirt, the same ruched forearm cuff, the same coats and dresses, all just varying in fabric.
The jackets, especially in the exotic skins, are desirable as much as Marc Jacobs' jackets were desirable in New York - wearable, excellent quality, but dull and done to death.
I liked the caught in the rain styling, and the interesting set, but the clothes..?

Yes, I see the repetition too, wonder why others can't.

She does that a lot for her collections, basically two or three outfits in different colors, textures, combinations, but this one is so blatant, it isn't even cute. This was a lazier than usual effort, as the designs could have been taken right off "Vogue patterns", with a side panel added to the skirts, and all the cool styling and surreal shadows won't make up for it. I loved her old collections that experimented with textures, colors, embellishments, etc...as she isn't the strongest in coming up with new shapes or constructions, but this one, with its tweed, gingham, mock croc, fur cuffs, is really straight off a vintage shop.

 

[YoninahAliza]

I adore the off-the-shoulder look that Prada did this season, it's a nice twist on looks that otherwise might be a bit too classic for some people's liking. Some of the off-the-shoulder looks sort of reminded me of the outfit Sandy wears at the end of Grease (particularly the second to last black one). I also really like the wool and tweed looks from this collection, they look so luxurious. My favorite look from the collection might be that stunning jade color tweed jacket and skirt at the bottom of post #30. Prada created a collection that exhibits a refined elegance with a touch of daring and I quite like it. Haven't been totally crazy about some of the brand's recent collections but I'm quite pleased with this one.

 

[alice]

I love this collection but I don't like the fur. Not only because fur is bulky (and cruel) but also because this collection will be cleaner and funnier without fur but with some fabrics that are more interesting.

 

[FND74]

I think Miuccia's been watching Downtown Abbey and thinking how she can sex it up.

 

[yesitsdagny]

I was sold after I saw the first few looks and it kept getting even better through the end! It's definitely one of the best collection I've seen in many seasons. The show was perfectly executed - the mysterious thrilling mood achieved by that wonderful venue, fitting music and of course - a brilliant clothes. Like said here in before, Miuccia definitely gained her inspiration from Hitchcock movies. The woman of this collection definitely carries the drama and mysticism, she could be a female villain on a suspicion movie, she's dangerous, yet undeniably irresistible. The show really was like a 15-minute thriller movie and all I can say is that I'm enraptured.

 

[KatherineCouture]

I impressed! Fabulous collection!