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Alluring
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Review by Suzy Menkes.
Trumpeting a Woman's World
MILAN — The room, framed by wire screens, was empty until the Prada guests took their places and an orchestra started to trumpet from a pit in the center.
“For years I took the most extrovert point of view, but this collection is completely introverted,” said Miuccia Prada backstage.
She was referring to slim, sober suits with a nifty and colorful scarf stroking one shoulder — one of the small concessions in this men’s wear winter 2014 collection, which was so totally different in spirit from the bold artists’ portraits in the last women’s show or the colorful Hawaiian prints for men. While Milan designers have mostly played with sportswear, Ms. Prada concentrated on tailoring.
This time there was color in the skinny scarves and thin pants puddling over vivid sneakers. But the peacock male was totally trounced by the women, preening in their brightly colored furs, their feather boas sashaying out in sheer dresses on high heels.
Why the mousy male and the flirtatious outgoing woman? Just when it seemed that there could not be another take on the slim, dull suit, the collection was thrown a life jacket. Make that a straightjacket, as the poor little men were caged into a series of body straps.
Ms. Prada — who with her husband, Patrizio Bertelli, will open a Prada modern art museum in Milan in 2015 — no doubt had some explanation for the simple and doubtless salable tailoring. But, as she said, she kept it to herself.
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