Prada Mens F/W 14.15 Milan

[mackos]

Review by Suzy Menkes.

Trumpeting a Woman's World

MILAN — The room, framed by wire screens, was empty until the Prada guests took their places and an orchestra started to trumpet from a pit in the center.
“For years I took the most extrovert point of view, but this collection is completely introverted,” said Miuccia Prada backstage.

She was referring to slim, sober suits with a nifty and colorful scarf stroking one shoulder — one of the small concessions in this men’s wear winter 2014 collection, which was so totally different in spirit from the bold artists’ portraits in the last women’s show or the colorful Hawaiian prints for men. While Milan designers have mostly played with sportswear, Ms. Prada concentrated on tailoring.

This time there was color in the skinny scarves and thin pants puddling over vivid sneakers. But the peacock male was totally trounced by the women, preening in their brightly colored furs, their feather boas sashaying out in sheer dresses on high heels.

Why the mousy male and the flirtatious outgoing woman? Just when it seemed that there could not be another take on the slim, dull suit, the collection was thrown a life jacket. Make that a straightjacket, as the poor little men were caged into a series of body straps.

Ms. Prada — who with her husband, Patrizio Bertelli, will open a Prada modern art museum in Milan in 2015 — no doubt had some explanation for the simple and doubtless salable tailoring. But, as she said, she kept it to herself.

 

[Fiercification]

A very clean and simple collection. Loved most of it, aside from the fur pieces (but then again I never will). The scarves were a really nice touch and added a bit of frivolity to the more pared down coats and suits.

I hated the women's pre-fall though....

 

[testinofan]

Ver ugly collection, the music are a big disaster very confused i hate all about this

 

[dior_couture1245]

Wow. I really, really, really loved it.

It was so classic Prada. Reminded me very much of the collections we got from her circa 2004-5. The delicious, autumnal palette, the grown up sex appeal, the update of a very retro look. It was so appealing.

I think what I liked best about this collection - the men's and the women's parts - was how adult it looked. This is not for boys and girls...this is for grown ups. It was sexy, it was mature. I think that is a very refreshing change. These models did not look like children playing dress up - they looked like actual characters in a dark and heady film from the 70's.

The set and the music was great, too. I loved the live orchestra playing at the show - that's new for Prada, isn't it? Would love for that to carry over into the women's show!

 

[jeffandtheworld]

I don't hate it. I just think it is really boring. Nothing's exciting.
The scarf is really ugly.

 

[dior_couture1245]

Also - these are the best shoes she's done for her women's collections in long time...they are just so classic and so perfect.

(style.com)

 

[marcBarna]

HQs



style.com

 

[marcBarna]

style.com

 

[marcBarna]

style.com

 

[marcBarna]

style.com

 

[marcBarna]

style.com

 

[gossiping]

absolutely love the womenswear, those bags and the leather dresses, gorgeous!

i have to complain about the fur, because i don't like it, but minus that it's an amazing show. i hope this runway is kept for the womenswear show, it's soo cool!

 

[maxlinden]

Brilliant as expected.

 

[Nepenthes]

It was a great show, as expected. The menswear looked flawless; very clean and sharp. I loved the jackets and the coats plus the scarves were an amazing touch. The womenswear was also incredible. I loved the silhouettes and the styling!

 

[christian zh]

The womenswear is the only good thing in this collection. And I wonder who would wear those pants.

 

[gazebo]

Womenwear is very 1970's which i love. Menswear is not too exciting but i would wear almost everything

 

[ogepma]

Another great show from Prada! Miuccia never ceases to amaze me. It felt so quintessential Prada but with fresh new twists here and there. I particularly love those grey jackets with the fur belts at the back and the color palette looks great as well. The women's pre-fall looked good too even though there may have been too much fur, but I guess that can be overlooked by how great the whole show was.

 

[FND74]

When I first saw the men's collection I was underwhelmed. Nothing new to see. But relooking at it now, I begin to see a few things I like though they are mostly new ways to color coordinate your outfit. She has an eye for color alright.

These are my favorite colorways

 

[margielamike2004]

Although I do like the collection....it's just a bit too paired-down and bland/boring for my personal liking.

Too many solid colors, and not a single print/pattern to be seen.

The shoes are very underwhelming

All in all....it's a considerably minimal/classic collection....but it's not very memorable.

I was anticipating something much better than this.

 

[margielamike2004]

There's definitely a 1970's vibe to this show.

Although the shirt collars are not very large or pronounced...they almost hint towards a butterfly-collar. Most of the lapels on the jackets are cut considerably wide...as are some of the pants. It's a very relaxed collection....and not cut very lean.

Also...the metal snaps n some of the jean-cut pants....and the fur self-belts on the back of some of the men's coats

The shoes for men almost look like a wedge-heel, towards the back of the shoes.

The women all have their hair parted in the center.....the handbags look very retro 70's....as do the cut/shape of the fur coats....the eyewear is incredibly retro-looking, too.