Random Identities by Stefano Pilati

[softgrey]

Stephano Pilati is back with a unisex collection of elegant streetwear and he hits it out of the park!

Live Launch Video


https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...yX0ib7H6i-w8PexVqxM329X85BR6KnLQyEOqmvOjJhI5r

 

[RaisinBoy]

I love Stefano, but this is embarrassing. Very cliché.

 

[Scotty]

Is this video new or from the 90s? How random.

 

[softgrey]

It's a beautiful statement on gender identity and freedom...
I'd wear every last bit of it, happily...



I almost cried watching it...
but then I was overcome by an overwhelming sense of joy and couldn't stop smiling from ear to ear...
this transcends fashion...
this is a social statement...

*forget society's anxieties...stay here with me...



androgyny forever...
end gender...
live free...
we the people...
created equal...

 

[Lola701]

I’m puzzled by this...
First of all, i’m really happy that Stefano is back. I think that in this era, anyone who has technical skills and a much more deep taste is welcome...

I have to say that the only things that works in it favor are the fact that it’s by Stefano and the price point.
I was more impressed by the preview of last year.

I don’t find these clothes challenging or interesting. It’s well styled, well put together but removed from the context, it might feel flat.
Stefano Still has his bourgeois touch in him. I liked the very sophisticated details and styling tricks and the subtle references to his YSL but in terms of German aesthetic, I think GMBH is far more superior to this.

I have to add that I hate the word unisex! A pant is a pant, a shirt is a shirt and a jacket is a jacket. If it looks good and it’s well cut, it can be worn by a man or a woman. If it’s available in bigger sizes, it can fit more men....
When I go to South Korea or Japan, I can see the beautiful illustration of that. Men looks good in womenswear!

I find the idea of a man wearing a woman dress as a statement in a fashion show kinda done and cliché.

It’s like suddenly, Stefano left his fancy Parisian environment and actually though that what he saw in Berlin was revolutionary... maybe it is for him but it’s not actually.

I’ll wait for next season but i’m still happy for his return.

 

[TheoG]

I can admit I had no idea this was even happening. So it's kind of a surprise for me because I didn't expect to see Stefano. With that said I'm not surprised by aesthetic of this collection, its befitting for him. The best thing about this was in fact the tailoring, so reminiscent of his time doing Miu Miu menswear. But this design, I am tired of seeing because they don't make a statement or impact but I think it will work. And the message will hit home for many. This has potential to flourish into something. Even his was of presenting and showing off schedule. I guess I'm more so happy to see Pilati back even for Ssense...

 

[helmutnotdead]

just one word: random.

 

[jeanclaude]

So random it could have been designed by any other designer. I am tired of this boring pretentious streetwear.

 

[mistress_f]

I really like some of this. I guess im both biased and just excited to have stefano back.
I simply don't understand while this is supposed to be unisex, ssense is marketing it as menswear. The styling on the runway doesn't help, if you see the photos on the website it's more classically styled and works better imo.

here's the photos from the runway show:



vogue.com

 

[mistress_f]

vogue.com

 

[mistress_f]

vogue.com

 

[orchidee]

It’s like suddenly, Stefano left his fancy Parisian environment and actually though that what he saw in Berlin was revolutionary... maybe it is for him but it’s not actually.

This sums it up for me. Even though his inspiration comes from somewhere that is seemingly an antidote to the "mainstream" fashion circuit, this ironically looks a little out of touch.

 

[softgrey]

some items are already sold out in some sizes on the ssense site...
it will also be available at Dover Street Market...

 

[Deleted member 130879]

I'm torn with this. On one hand I love it. It may be streetwear but it's everything Demna wanted to be and didn't know how to. It's very nostalgia, very 90s and yet with a touch of despair that reminds me a lot of a more accessible Rick Owens. It's a simplified Owens, in a way.

On the other hand I HATE the "thug" styling of some of the looks. It gives the wrong vibe to the collection. It's out of touch and rather insensitive. I thought we were past this...

 

[softgrey]

didn't Stefano work at Prada back in the day? I get an old school Prada vibe mixed with old school Helmut Lang...
classic cool...styled in an elegant way...
I love all the black and grey and white...
...
timeless...


@EstefaniaAbaddon - interesting you see thug...
I see hip hop styling...
I wouldn't wear any of it like that, but I guess that's the point...
you can do anything you want with these pieces...
create your own identity...

 

[Lola701]

@EstefaniaAbaddon - interesting you see thug...
I see hip hop styling...
I wouldn't wear any of it like that, but I guess that's the point...
you can do anything you want with these pieces...
create your own identity...

I guess it has a connection with Hip-Hop but for me it’s really reminescent of classic European « suburbs » style.
I don’t want to say «hood » because it’s more cultural than that but this is similar to the way people dressed where I grew up and people dressed a bit like that up until recently.

Obviously with the streetwear frenzy, this style which wasn’t well perceived is now mainstream and it’s always funny to see people from more privileged backgrounds dressed like that.

I think Stefano tried to make it more sophisticated...to give it a more fashion approach to what Demna does (which is quite literal).

Yes he worked at Prada and he has always been a fan of the Japanese and we can see this sensibility in this collection.

For me Stefano’s strength is his way to do sophistication in a very casual way.
I have an outfit from his ss08 YSL collection which is a grey jersey top with the Ysl logo with the matching pant that could be a sophisticated interpretation of a tracksuit and this is maybe what I miss here.

Sorry i responded even if it was directed to me

 

[Deleted member 130879]

I guess it has a connection with Hip-Hop but for me it’s really reminescent of classic European « suburbs » style.
I don’t want to say «hood » because it’s more cultural than that but this is similar to the way people dressed where I grew up and people dressed a bit like that up until recently.

Obviously with the streetwear frenzy, this style which wasn’t well perceived is now mainstream and it’s always funny to see people from more privileged backgrounds dressed like that.

That's what I mean. Around these parts it's still quite usual to see kids dressed like that and is less about music and more about looking "dangerous" given the connection to marginalized groups. It's insensitive but when it's kids you give them the benefit of the doubt. I find it strange to see grown-up designers using that in 2018. It's very bourgeoisie and not very... "woke", if you know what I mean. But, again, it's just the styling, the clothing is indeed giving me more Rick Owens meets Helmut Lang than anything else.

As a side note: I find that to be the major problem with most luxury streetwear nowadays. They try to be young and cool but they come across as old and out-of-tune as Donatella Versace. Margiela, Demna's hero, broke the rules and made people uncomfortable. The price tag was high but it all came from a very deep and personal place. He wouldn't fall for something as badly stereotypical as this "look" that everyone from Demna to Kanye West and Gosha seem so eager to cash on. That's why I thought Pilati was above that.

 

[softgrey]

I find what you're saying pretty fascinating @Lola701 and @EstefaniaAbaddon ...
being that I don't live in the suburbs and really try not to even visit them, this is not what I see, but I totally get what you're saying now...
you explained it perfectly...thanks...

anyone I know or see who wears stuff like this is indeed urban and usually part of the hip hope scene...

you've given me a bigger picture now...
really interesting...

my guess is that this is going to be an older customer though...

edit to add...
I can't help loving the last look which I think is a bomber jacket worn backwards and upside down...
it really puts across the message of taking the pieces and making them your own, imho...
you see this kind of styling in editorials but I can't think of a time I've seen it on the runway...
...

and I seriously want those boots...

 

[bc collector]

didn't Stefano work at Prada back in the day?

Miu Miu, in fact

I wish the collection had more of Pilati's incredible taste when attiring himself, even for his IG account, and less of this ersatz Berlin grubbiness.