Rochas to close

[faust]

You know what I always wondered about?

Why did they not work on producing further, distinct fragrances if that is the way they want to make money with the name of Marcel Rochas? The only one they ever launched ever since Olivier took the job, Poupée, never made it big and the old fragrances are loosing a customerbase rapidly... nobody would know what Rochas stands for... it would be just a dead name if Olivier wouldn't do such a tremendous job.

That was my point exactly in my original post here. That's why I don't understand their refusal to sell the brand.

 

[Spacemiu]

Thats reallly to bad, I had heard that they were not making alot of money form the clothes and I couldn't see him ever really doing a 'it' bag or some kind of money maker like that, so I'm not that surprised. But it's unfortunate.

I rhope his new found fame from Rochas will help him to start his own label again with may be some investment from someone like Anne Chapelle .

 

[fashionista-ta]

i wonder what wintour thinks about all of this...

She's got the balls to call up those Tide-makers and rip them a new one ... I really hope she does

This is a shocker ... poor Olivier. He's done so many things right, and now to have to deal with the Philistines at P&G ... yikes

 

[kikidior]

Oliver will find a new place. He is too much of a gem and inovator not too. Fashion needs him

i completely agree. funny thing is that i wasn't as sad when i learned tom ford was leaving ysl and gucci. for some reason, this is much more devastating. olivier seems to be one of those good natured designers and what he's doing at rochas is phenomenal. i've always had the impression that anna wintour likes olivier theyskens so if ever he does do his own line or work for another house, i'm hoping he'll be well supported. and when will roland mouret work again? if another favorite leaves fashion even temporarily, i'd be seriously displeased. this thread should've had a disclaimer. really disappointed!

 

[kimair]

You know what I always wondered about?

Why did they not work on producing further, distinct fragrances if that is the way they want to make money with the name of Marcel Rochas? The only one they ever launched ever since Olivier took the job, Poupée, never made it big and the old fragrances are loosing a customerbase rapidly... nobody would know what Rochas stands for... it would be just a dead name if Olivier wouldn't do such a tremendous job.

very interesting point...
considering that alexander mcqueen has 2 fragrances, stella mccartney has one, as does viktor and rolf...
it does help build brand awareness...

 

[JuiceMajor]

Sad day for fashion....

 

[dior_couture1245]

How terrible!

It's always so disappointing to me when something so critically acclaimed and high quality has to close or stop because of finacial problems or what not.

For example, the american TV show Arrested Developmet was such a gem. A stellar comedy that was smart and witty. Critics couldn't get enough of it. But because viewer ratings were low, the show was cancelled, no matter the fact that it was an emmy winning show and there was a dedicated fan base....blah, blah, you get the picture. It's sad, because it's been cancelled for a while, but was just nominated again for an emmy.

This story really reminds me of Rochas right now. Critical acclaim out the whazoo, I mean, practically every editorial in fashion mags have some Rochas in it, it's in all the trend reports, and the clothes are stunning! It's so disappointing. I always looked forward to the Rochas collections. Olivier is one of my favorites. I know he won't stop designing, he'll continue working for sure, so at least there's some hope, but it's very sad.

 

[sarah13]

I agree with everyone. I think there are a few designers/artists that are really giving fashion something new and exciting and Oliver is one of them.

Along with Roland Mouret, Nicolas Ghesquiere, Pheobe Philo in my opinion. And they are being weaned out one by one, leaving on their own or having the big company stiffel their creativity.

 

[thehepburn]

Miss Rochas will always be a classic scent.

Proctor & Gamble sucks. That is all.

 

[kimair]

more on this from fashionweekdaily...

Rochas: fashion’s latest victim.

Now that word is out that Proctor & Gamble, which acquired the Rochas brand in 2003, plans to shutter it, the question on everyone’s mind is: what will become of 29 year-old Olivier Theyskens?

A formal announcement could come as early as tomorrow. Calls to the Rochas press office in Paris were not immediately returned this afternoon.

According to those familiar with the situation, P&G has decided to pull back its focus on Rochas as a fashion brand, and will, instead, concentrate on producing fragrances under the venerable Rochas name. Nearly three dozen employees will be affected by this decision.

The fall/winter collection, which, like its designer, met with critical acclaim, will be shipped, according to sources on the retail side, which have slowly begun to be notified of the development.

“I haven’t heard about it [the closure] from anybody, but I hope it doesn’t happen,” said Ikram Goldman, who had just returned from a buying trip in Paris, where she purchased pieces from the Rochas pre-spring collection. Her boutique, Ikram, has carried Rochas since 2002.

P&G’s decision brings to an end Theyskens’ three-year tenure at Rochas. The genteel designer, a recipient of the Fashion Group International’s 2005 Star Honoree award alongside Alberta Ferretti and Ralph Rucci, has received much acclaim in the fashion world. Vogue’s Anna Wintour, who last month presented Theyskens with the CFDA’s International Award. Ironically, Wintour, who donned a Rochas gown in his honor, joked, “Olivier told me his Plan B, if fashion didn’t work out, was to become a florist. Well, if that ever happens, please put me down for a bouquet of his most romantic flowers.”

Perhaps a more realistic future for Theyskens would be to bring his eye for beauty and his column silhouette to an established luxury house which knows how to monetize talent. His June front-row appearance at Oscar de la Renta’s cruise fashion show, with Wintour, comes to mind when industry insiders speak of his next step. Wintour is a powerful broker of fashion players.

Theyskens told The Daily immediately following the show that he enjoyed what he saw.

“I’m very impressed, not just to see the clothes, but to see it here in this space,” he said. “I can understand better the branding of his company. I would love to see his atelier.” The opportunity may now come sooner than he thought.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Also keep in mind that there are many many reasons why companies closed. Imagine what other issues going in their infrastructure had to happen for them to give up on Theysken's talent? My idea is that it was past the point of no return and other options like selling and accessory development were not available.

Balenciaga, Lanvin, and Rochas were all in a similiar position. All three had extremely talented designers, all were lost names that had to rebuild their status in the mainstream, and they had unstable coporate infrastructures. Balenciaga has made it due to smart line development and marketing. Lanvin (whose current state I am unsure of but their addition of a menswear label is usually a sign of growth and profits) does well because the are simply good sellers.

Rochas only has Olivier's designs working for them, no business plan to make his vision into something profitable no matter how beautiful it is.

And to be honest, seeing the Lanvin next to the Rochas I would have went for the Lanvin.

 

[Selene Darkheart]

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[skot4mc]

lets all chip in and buy/save Rochas...

wishful thinking.

 

[Pastry]

*all very valuable comments that describe how i feel...

tricotineacetat: i wondered how you'd take the news, being such a devout fan...
dior_couture: I know! at least, i have "the office" now...
Selene_Darkheart: my feelings exactly..haha?
skot4mc: don't think it didn't cross my mind...

i called my friend as soon as i got the news...but to her..this isn't really 'tragic'...i wish tfs had a voice option....

 

[tricotineacetat]

And to be honest, seeing the Lanvin next to the Rochas I would have went for the Lanvin.

maybe i am being bitter, but after having seen all S/S 2007 pre collections in person, I must confirm my thoughts that I find Alber Elbaz' Lanvin clothing (which is priced just as high as Rochas) much inferior in terms of construction and technique compared to Olivier's... Rochas excels in almost every aspect of the product - the fabrics are especially designed for the house and are often the most innovative on the market, the stitching is tight and the construction often reinforced from the inside for a perfect fit... if you ever have access to any of his dresses, the short cap sleeves are often reinforced from the inside with stiff gaze for them to fit correctly, some of the skirts have build-in corsets or fully-constructed underskirts - these are qualities I haven't seen in any other high-end designer collection elsewhere on the market... for sure not with Lanvin, though.

 

[Pastry]

^ i think they just have a different approach..theyskens has a very gingerly one..obviously, where he takes care of everything
..whereas elbaz is much more spontaneous.

BUT, let's not turn this into a "who's better" argument. i honestly just feel like talking about theyskens. that's all that's on my mind right now, which is weird becasue i spent most of yesterday going over rochas collections since the first one in the fall of 2003. it's like i knew..creepy.

*edit: i wish i had enough money to buy the dragonfly jacket i saw on sale yesterday! definitely a collector's item now..

 

[softgrey]

woah- theyskens at de la renta?...
in nyc?...

...

that could be good!!...

 

[LoveMyBoots]

This isn't that shocking in terms of how Rochas isn't that accessible, but the idea that his talent would almost be wasted in this manner.

Even if he does go to De La Renta, it's a different aesthetic.... Though it'd be interesting to see how he takes it, I loved where he took Rochas itself...

 

[JJohnson]

Also keep in mind that there are many many reasons why companies closed. Imagine what other issues going in their infrastructure had to happen for them to give up on Theysken's talent? My idea is that it was past the point of no return and other options like selling and accessory development were not available.

Balenciaga, Lanvin, and Rochas were all in a similiar position. All three had extremely talented designers, all were lost names that had to rebuild their status in the mainstream, and they had unstable coporate infrastructures. Balenciaga has made it due to smart line development and marketing. Lanvin (whose current state I am unsure of but their addition of a menswear label is usually a sign of growth and profits) does well because the are simply good sellers.

Rochas only has Olivier's designs working for them, no business plan to make his vision into something profitable no matter how beautiful it is.

And to be honest, seeing the Lanvin next to the Rochas I would have went for the Lanvin.

this is all so odd considering Proctor and Gamble (HUGE CORPORATION) owns Rochas....maybe he's just leaving or something....But im gonna miss him

 

[JJohnson]

This is so confusing?!