Sabato De Sarno - Designer, Creative Director of Gucci

supposedly, he was given one more collection to try the turn-around, the coming September show.
if not, he’s out.
I dont have much faith on the next collection but let’s see.
I can’t imagine the amount of pressure he must be feeling now…he will need to skip holidays and keep working hard…
 
I can’t imagine the amount of pressure he must be feeling now…he will need to skip holidays and keep working hard…
Dancing for his life.

Occasionally, I do get tempted by something - I saw a nice picture of a Jackie 1961 small shoulder bag, so I went online to see what the specs were, but in return for £2,560, they had better give me more information than it's made from "Gucci Rosso Ancora Leather" with "light gold-toned hardware". Exactly what type of leather and metal?

For £2,700 I could get an Hermes Picotin where they'll tell me straight that it's made from Clemence leather with yellow gold-plated or palladium-plated hardware.

I also can remember getting 90s Jackies for around £200 each from someone who'd regularly go to Milan for shopping and then consign them to make space for the next session.

So it probably doesn't matter what they do with their advertising or their runway shows - some serious price adjustment would have to happen before I'd go near Gucci again. I'm not expecting to pay £200 for a bag in 2024, but they need to price themselves accordingly for what they're really offering.
 
supposedly, he was given one more collection to try the turn-around, the coming September show.
if not, he’s out.
How would they judge that and make a decision ? in September just after the show reviews, or in February after the first sales reports (it’s a Spring-Summer collection, which will hit the stores in Jan-Feb) ?
6 months make quite a difference… they will lose another billion of sales in between.
 
How would they judge that and make a decision ? in September just after the show reviews, or in February after the first sales reports (it’s a Spring-Summer collection, which will hit the stores in Jan-Feb) ?
6 months make quite a difference… they will lose another billion of sales in between.
The show collections don't make the money unless a it bag & shoes come out of it but so far this did not happen so they are running on the main collections and capsules for the billions just look at the website you will see how much updated and old main collections there is.

The ideal should have been that his vision has been so clear and great it would influence a bigger turn around of new it items to gradually replace AM gucci´s best sellers.

If they measure september its based on press and online hype /excitement from the show, they just hired this June 2024 the YSL bags designer (9years) Roberto Franco / ex Chanel bags consultant to try to fix already the non exciting it bag issue.

Also the new co CEO Stefano don't care who Sabato is he is a outsider, he will have less patience and loyalty to whatever was decided before as he has a lot to prove once he is full in control of Gucci by end of this year as expected via reports and speculations.

Via miss tweed :
Francesca Bellettini, Kering's deputy CEO, has come to the rescue and tapped the famous leather goods designer Roberto Franco, who previously worked for Saint Laurent (9years) ex chanel bags consultation , to come up with a new collection of bags for Gucci.


"Roberto Franco is a superstar in his field," one Paris-based headhunter said. "He connects with the Zeitgeist, he's able to come up with 'it bags' and design products that fit a given collection"


I would be zero shocked if the new year starts without Ancora Guy at Gucci.
 
Sabato is not great. That’s one thing but there’s also a real disconnect between the promises made in the Assemblée Générale and the results in terms of communication. All the campaigns, except the Daria one and the loafers one presented « Logo-a-gogo/Discount or Straight to the Outlet » products.

I’m really puzzled by « he will be fired in September ».
While there’s no dynamic since his arrival (similar to what happened at Tom Ford) compared to a brand like Chloé, there’s no real palpable way to evaluate his success.

Ancora is for now the only collection that has time to perform and they still have merchandise from the stuff by the studio. Ok, if he is fired for internal reasons, ok. But there’s no way to evaluate the success of his Ancora collection now.

And Gucci, much like YSL is going through a refocus to distribution through their own retail network. So even orders from buyers won’t have a distinctive weight as Gucci, no matter what, will stay a staple for High End Department stores.
 
@Lola701 ......there’s no way to evaluate the success of his Ancora collection now.

This part only i disagree because both in sales and press and hype it has been lacking behind, Alessandro with his first show already brought It items and press shock value and generated sales even when people disliked it both in press and online it sold to a large enough group to measure a successful start of his
Gucci.......by his first cruise show it was already explosion time hot cakes !!! i am sure you remember well :-)

Much like Burberry versus BV for Lee you see also the difference from the first show shock and actual buzz on certain items at BV versus now Burberry its been luck warm and even more bad sales ( because they don't have a big core collection to absorb the losses made from the new direction for Burberry like Gucci )

Much like Burberry people are not lusting for Ancora clothes or bags, let alone a point of view or story because we now now for sure there is none than just empty artsy words to make people see something that is not there but a sea of red and GG ´s.
 
@Lola701 ......there’s no way to evaluate the success of his Ancora collection now.

This part only i disagree because both in sales and press and hype it has been lacking behind, Alessandro with his first show already brought It items and press shock value and generated sales even when people disliked it both in press and online it sold to a large enough group to measure a successful start of his
Gucci.......by his first cruise show it was already explosion time hot cakes !!! i am sure you remember well :-)

Much like Burberry versus BV for Lee you see also the difference from the first show shock and actual buzz on certain items at BV versus now Burberry its been luck warm and even more bad sales ( because they don't have a big core collection to absorb the losses made from the new direction for Burberry like Gucci )

Much like Burberry people are not lusting for Ancora clothes or bags, let alone a point of view or story because we now now for sure there is none than just empty artsy words to make people see something that is not there but a sea of red and GG ´s.
Yes, I agree and I’m aware of that.
That’s why I mentioned Chloe for example. There was an anticipation after the show!

But the idea that a show in September will determine his future is a bit weird. Even if it’s met with rave reviews, the impact will not be immediate. People are not going to run to the stores to buy the FW collection because the SS2025 is well received.

I think numbers will determine the future of Sabato, not the reception of the collection. But the last Assemblee Générale was so tense that I think a lot can be at stake if Sabato is fired quickly.
 
I dont have much faith on the next collection but let’s see.
I can’t imagine the amount of pressure he must be feeling now…he will need to skip holidays and keep working hard…

I can’t wait to see him dance right out that door! 🕺

Jokes aside, I wonder if they would consider offering him a different position in the studio. He was obviously very successful as a member of a design team. It would be better than leaving.
 
I can’t wait to see him dance right out that door! 🕺

Jokes aside, I wonder if they would consider offering him a different position in the studio. He was obviously very successful as a member of a design team. It would be better than leaving.
His italian pride will prevent him to accept a less leading role for sure….

He needs to re-learn Gucci’s adn and codes and rework everything. Also the problem, besides his lack of a clear vision,is that his entourage dont question him or his collections, so it’s hard to really know things if everyone tells you “bello bello”, sometimes they need to critic in order to make things better…..

I dont like also his casting for Gucci, also because his Gucci woman is not clear then you have a bland group of women walking, with some exceptions of course.

September will be very interesting to see…
 
I can’t wait to see him dance right out that door! 🕺

Jokes aside, I wonder if they would consider offering him a different position in the studio. He was obviously very successful as a member of a design team. It would be better than leaving.
Come on, no one goes from number 1 to number 2 within the same company.

You wouldn’t even accept it if you have a minimum of pride lol.

Leaving is always better. He can go back to PPP. Look at Natacha who went back to Nicolas and is doing consulting jobs.
 
Yes, I agree and I’m aware of that.
That’s why I mentioned Chloe for example. There was an anticipation after the show!

But the idea that a show in September will determine his future is a bit weird. Even if it’s met with rave reviews, the impact will not be immediate. People are not going to run to the stores to buy the FW collection because the SS2025 is well received.

I think numbers will determine the future of Sabato, not the reception of the collection. But the last Assemblee Générale was so tense that I think a lot can be at stake if Sabato is fired quickly.
I disagree, sales numbers are mostly determined by a CEOs and execs decisions (like the opening of closing of new spaces), but are led by the show receptions.
I just think that pre-orders in the showroom are imo the best way; to gauge the interest of the public, set the production output, and price the collection, and finally the impact of the CD.
It worked that way with Chloe after rave reviews and in the other way with Gucci, but both shows were highly anticipated.
 

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