Sabato De Sarno - Designer, Creative Director of Gucci

[yslforever]

I rarely speak with Kering people but they told me that MANY FLAGSHIPS (I don’t know what’s wrong with me today writing in capital letters… seriously, I’m feeling very dramatic) do not even carry the RTW collection by Sabato. Isn’t that crazy???? Maybe you already mentioned it before, but going to a flagship and not finding RTW by the creative director is kind of CRAZY. We are not talking about a 10M point of sale… we are talking about the biggest flagship in a country. 🤐

It's not crazy, it's Kering being Kering, it's the same at BV and YSL.
They think garments are not as profitable as accessories: they prefer dedicating the expensive retail space to bags (which are produced in one to 3 sizes) over garments: 8 sizes, more expensive price tags, difficult to sell because of body types, seasonality, discounts. With accessories, the questions (and costs) of sizing, body types, more expensive tags, are evacuated.
They see producing clothes as an inconvenient necessity, it's necessary to hype the brands and the image but if they can avoid the production and distribution of garments, they would prefer avoid if they can.
Or in very limited series.

Edit: also, they don't want any kind of sale or discount, but clothes are seasonal, after a season what are they going to do with the remaining inventory, as they don't want to advertise sales ? They concluded the best for them was to avoid the hassle of producing, distributing, selling, discounting clothes.

 

[Creative]

It's not crazy, it's Kering being Kering, it's the same at BV and YSL.
They think garments are not as profitable as accessories: they prefer dedicating the expensive retail space to bags (which are produced in one to 3 sizes) over garments: 8 sizes, more expensive price tags, difficult to sell because of body types, seasonality, discounts. With accessories, the questions (and costs) of sizing, body types, more expensive tags, are evacuated.
They see producing clothes as an inconvenient necessity, it's necessary to hype the brands and the image but if they can avoid the production and distribution of garments, they would prefer avoid if they can.
Or in very limited series.

Edit: also, they don't want any kind of sale or discount, but clothes are seasonal, after a season what are they going to do with the remaining inventory, as they don't want to advertise sales ? They concluded the best for them was to avoid the hassle of producing, distributing, selling, discounting clothes.

I mean, that’s something every brand knows: bags are easier than rtw. And also, everybody knows the sell-through in RTW is always lower than other categories. The thing is that they still have garments in the store but different ones from the fashion show. They still have the rtw area, it’s not like they are putting bags in those rooms. They put other items designed for the boutique. And it’s not like Sabato is doing experimental things. The show is as basic as the ones on display, it’s just not selling and they decided to cancel it.

Nevertheless, I know no brand that wants to have a full business dependent on accessories. At every major brand they fight for at least 15% to 20% of the mix in RTW. It’s a category everyone wants to boost and it’s considered as an important one, and they invest a lot on it.

 

[Frederic01]

I rarely speak with Kering people but they told me that MANY FLAGSHIPS (I don’t know what’s wrong with me today writing in capital letters… seriously, I’m feeling very dramatic) do not even carry the RTW collection by Sabato. Isn’t that crazy???? Maybe you already mentioned it before, but going to a flagship and not finding RTW by the creative director is kind of CRAZY. We are not talking about a 10M point of sale… we are talking about the biggest flagship in a country. 🤐

I was told by people working at Gucci that this was a strategic move to give more exclusivity and rarity to his collections. Prada is currently implementing the same strategy. The runway collections are transitioning to a more "made-to-order" approach rather than just being readily available for clients to purchase.

 

[Creative]

I was told by people working at Gucci that this was a strategic move to give more exclusivity and rarity to his collections. Prada is currently implementing the same strategy. The runway collections are transitioning to a more "made-to-order" approach rather than just being readily available for clients to purchase.

There has always been a MTO offer in the collections… and believe me, it’s not for exclusivity. They need to produce a % of garments and the buying team decide to produce the more sellable. But even sometimes the merchandising team must buy certain pieces (a few) that they don’t believe in just for image. The ones that cannot sell easily in stores they put them in the MTO offer.

Also, the MTO can take months sometimes… and it’s not a Kelly bag tbh, it’s Gucci or Prada, not the peak of luxury if you ask me. The timings usually create lot of discomfort to the clients, because it takes more than expected, and then the season is over and the new things come and the product already looks old.

It’s just a sign that a business it’s not working. They believe that if they produce it the ST will be 20% and it’s a lot of money wasted.

 

[PDFSD]

It's Gonna Be a worse situation than Dior by Galliano in the 2000's when the runway piece were Just show pieces. His stuff does not sell. Full stop. The only items that are gonna be shown at the shops for the upcoming Ss25 show are the baggy pants with the slits at the bottom, the logo tank tops and some A line dress with bamboo details.
But let's Not Act like Dior or Louis are better: you can find Ghesquiere stuff in stores but most of the time it's Just for shop display...it's hard to find People Who are into 80's scifi obsession a la Nicolas

.......but with LV NG´s runway experiments end up being integrated into the commercial collections wayyyyyy more than at Gucci, its actually how it's set up at LV that details especially hard wear details and cuts get commercialized for a more continuative collection.

and that the fashion show collection serves for the experimentation and progress in development for acc and rtw to have new classics, this endless evolving wardrobe idea that was the concept since day one NG started at LV.

 

[jeanclaude]

I was told by people working at Gucci that this was a strategic move to give more exclusivity and rarity to his collections. Prada is currently implementing the same strategy. The runway collections are transitioning to a more "made-to-order" approach rather than just being readily available for clients to purchase.

So basically they are doing the opposite of Hermés?? Buy the bags to get the clothes??

 

[MultiQsan]

Gucci trying to appeal to the quiet luxury customer was the worst decision ever made. Lose the customers that built up the brand and lose to the quiet customers who never see Gucci as a brand they would buy.
At this point they’re just bleeding money and employees.

Did the board really think Sabato’s menswear sloppy coats, short shorts, and ballet flats make the brand more desirable for men? Sure, Alessandro’s bows and furry princetowns were androgynous and maximalist but everyone wore them and didn’t need to be made in limited quantities to be desired.

 

[yslforever]

I mean, that’s something every brand knows: bags are easier than rtw. And also, everybody knows the sell-through in RTW is always lower than other categories. The thing is that they still have garments in the store but different ones from the fashion show. They still have the rtw area, it’s not like they are putting bags in those rooms. They put other items designed for the boutique. And it’s not like Sabato is doing experimental things. The show is as basic as the ones on display, it’s just not selling and they decided to cancel it.

Nevertheless, I know no brand that wants to have a full business dependent on accessories. At every major brand they fight for at least 15% to 20% of the mix in RTW. It’s a category everyone wants to boost and it’s considered as an important one, and they invest a lot on it.

I think Kering is aiming for 5-6-7% instead

 

[Nimsay]

At a time when LVMH is pivoting to improve their RTW across their brands... Gucci decides it's about bags.

This also means they're not doing Hedi. His success is founded on RTW sales...

GGoing down in flames

 

[Xone]

At a time when LVMH is pivoting to improve their RTW across their brands... Gucci decides it's about bags.

This also means they're not doing Hedi. His success is founded on RTW sales...

GGoing down in flames

Kering is so clueless...

So in 24 days we'll be witnesses of the amazing fw25 collection hahaha lol

 

[PDFSD]

Kering is so clueless...

So in 24 days we'll be witnesses of the amazing fw25 collection hahaha lol

part of going upmarket lol......... sell your investments in outlet store the mall buildings lol


NEWS Kering is selling more of its real estate assets (The Mall Luxury Outlets) via cpp-luxury.com

Kering has finalised the sale of its entire stake in The Mall Luxury Outlets to Simon, the U.S.-based real estate investment trust specialising in high-end retail, dining, and entertainment destinations. The transaction, valued at approximately 350 million euros, marks Kering’s strategic move to streamline its portfolio and focus on its core luxury business.

Established in 2001, The Mall Luxury Outlets operates two prestigious shopping destinations in Italy—one in Leccio, near Florence, and another in Sanremo. These locations have become well-known for housing a selection of luxury brands, offering brand and cost-conscience shoppers a curated retail experience in a refined setting. Simon, a global leader in retail property management, is well-positioned to oversee the continued success of these premium outlets, Kering said in a statement.

The decision to divest from The Mall aligns with Kering’s broader strategy of refining its distribution model and prioritising its direct-to-consumer approach. By concentrating its outlet presence in a select number of exclusive venues, the French luxury conglomerate seeks to maintain greater control over brand positioning and customer engagement.

This deal reflects broader trends in the luxury sector, where major fashion houses are reassessing their retail strategies to strike a balance between exclusivity and accessibility. As luxury groups focus on flagship stores and high-end retail destinations, the role of outlets is evolving, with an emphasis on preserving brand prestige while catering to a more diverse clientele.

Kering has been more acutely affected by the slowdown in the global luxury market than some of its competitors, with declining sales and profits pushing its stock price to its lowest level since 2017. In line with its efforts to optimise financial performance and restructure its asset portfolio, the company recently sold a majority stake in three prime Parisian properties to French private equity firm Ardian, generating net proceeds of approximately 837 million euros.

 

[tourbillions]

.......but with LV NG´s runway experiments end up being integrated into the commercial collections wayyyyyy more than at Gucci, its actually how it's set up at LV that details especially hard wear details and cuts get commercialized for a more continuative collection.

and that the fashion show collection serves for the experimentation and progress in development for acc and rtw to have new classics, this endless evolving wardrobe idea that was the concept since day one NG started at LV.

theres no high fashion elements to be commercialized in this guys collections. his collections are already as basic as it gets, guess theyll end up with logo tees i nstores to make it more basic

 

[FashionPower]

Lol, amazing job from Buzzoni, Cantino and Sabato: not even an important celebrity wearing Gucci at the Grammys...
Even Prada scored Billie Eilish...
Gucci and Versace are the worst italian brands at the moment, completely irrelevant in PR, image and fashion conversation.

 

[Xone]

Even Prada scored Billie Eilish

and Troye Sivan

 

[Xone]

Gucci and Versace are the worst italian brands at the moment, completely irrelevant in PR, image and fashion conversation.

and still..they feel like god haha....delusional

 

[proseccotabis]

Lol, amazing job from Buzzoni, Cantino and Sabato: not even an important celebrity wearing Gucci at the Grammys...
Even Prada scored Billie Eilish...
Gucci and Versace are the worst italian brands at the moment, completely irrelevant in PR, image and fashion conversation.

I never thought I’d see the day where not one celebrity wears Gucci at an important awards ceremony. Says a lot not only about the design but about their PR.

 

[yslforever]

I never thought I’d see the day where not one celebrity wears Gucci at an important awards ceremony. Says a lot not only about the design but about their PR.

He comes from Loro Piana, not especially a red carpet specialist then, but after Pinault buying CAA they have it very easy with a large rooster to pick from :

Touring artists | CAA

www.caa.com

How incompetent can they be...