The New York market is possibly the hardest or one of the hardest markets to break into. My agency has a philosophy that there is no point in even trying (i.e., going to castings) until a model is fully ready. Basically, the goal of any model is to have a portfolio entirely filled with editorials. A model usually starts their career with test shoots. Shoots with other photographers who are also building their book. The shoot is free for everyone involved and everyone receives photos in return. However, in order to gain better photos quickly, a lot of models do paid tests. This is where they pay a better photographer to shoot with them. Eventually, test after test, turns into booking jobs for magazines. Now the problem is that photos don't always turn out in a way an agency feels is "suitable" for the portfolio. Meaning, it takes a lot of f*g shoots to build a portfolio. This is why agencies send models overseas. When a model shows up to a country for eight weeks, the goal is that every magazine in that market will want to work with the model. But. Another problem, is that while a model might shoot for twenty magazines in an Asian market...what Asia feels is "high fashion" at the moment, might not work for a New York portfolio. I must have shot over forty jobs while in Hong Kong. Three or four of those jobs are in my book right now. I shot for Harper's Bazaar in Hong Kong. Bazaar is one of the best magazines on the planet to book. However, my agency, decided that the photos didn't work for the NY market.
So. Models keep working. They keep traveling to different markets. They keep shooting. They keep "building their book." When I got back from Asia; I had a meeting with my booker. I told my booker, "Can you make me a star? Because this working and not getting paid thing is getting kind of old." My booker then gave me a rundown of my "career path." I was to go to Australia, try out Europe, maybe go back to Asia, and hopefully by next fall I would be "ready to be based out of New York."
...
Before leaving for Asia, I shot a lot of editorial for European and American magazines. It took awhile to get all of the tears, but they came while I was gone. Since being back, my agency has spent a lot of time reconstructing my book. Well. My booker called. And surprise! It was good news. He and the rest of the board had a meeting. They went over my portfolio. They all concluded I was ready to work in New York. My booker apologized. "We know you were looking forward to traveling more. However, we feel you are ready to work here. Why not make money here instead of getting in debt for tears you don't need in a different country?" He told me that for the first time, they owed me money. I finally covered all of my expenses on my account.
So. Whoa. This was a shock. A year of constantly working for nothing, moving every two months, anxiously waiting on tears...not happening. Not that you'll see me gracing the cover of Italian Vogue next month. And yes, I'm still broke. (Shea P's blog)